Custom Air Conditioning Retrofit - Page 28 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Modifications and Alterations
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-28-2020, 08:26 PM   #541
Senior Member
 
arniesea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bremerton, Washington
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 1,133
Suggestion: Regarding the clean roof, no cutout option. I believe the roof is reinforced in that location to carry the weight of the AC unit. Back when I ordered my 5.0. my sales rep was the person that took the build photos once my unit went into production. You might ask Linda to take a photo of the ceiling before the rig goes to the liner shop. (normally the build photos start after the rig has been at the liner shop.) This would give you the locations of the reinforcement material incase you wanted that for a future solar panel install or something.
__________________

__________________
- Arnie & Paula & Kizzy the rat terrier
https://www.arniesea.com
- 2019 5.0 TA, 2017 Tundra Platinum.
- Bremerton, WA
arniesea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2020, 08:56 PM   #542
Senior Member
 
Centex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: East of Austin, Texas
Trailer: 2005 Casita 17 Deluxe (original owner)
Posts: 783
Thanks for that suggestion, Arnie, I'll make a note to ask when mine enters build, pics at that stage would certainly be of interest for a number of reasons.

Aside, the PV panels that have my eye at the moment (This 200W panel 'endorsed' by AM Solar for RV applications which also happen to be available through my local Home Depot) would require a 'spread mounting' slightly wider than that used by ETI. My brother, a skilled professional boatbuilder very familiar with various WEST System fiberglass fabrication techniques, assures me we'll be able to bond appropriate load-distributing accommodations to the shell working within the confines of OH cabinet spaces where those will align. I have every intention of avoiding any modification within the center-section of the roof.
__________________

__________________
Alan E.
Prospective Escape 5.0TA Owner (deposit submitted 09/09/2020 for completion 08/18/2021)
Centex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2020, 09:07 PM   #543
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 21 2019 Expedition
Posts: 4,188
If your brother is planning to "bolt through" in the upper overhead cabinets as ETI does be advised that ETI initially did that method after the headliner was in. Later they did it before. AM Solar would just use appropriate VHB tape.
__________________
"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
Rossue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2020, 09:25 PM   #544
Senior Member
 
Centex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: East of Austin, Texas
Trailer: 2005 Casita 17 Deluxe (original owner)
Posts: 783
Nope, we're talking about selective removal of the headliner / insulation to expose the fiberglass shell, bonding appropriate load-distribution pads, and bolt-thru fastening for custom panel stanchions that will allow all-axis tilt. I'm not inclined to the VHB-tape solution and I trust the brother's guidance on 'thru-hull fastenings' based on his experience with the rigors of boat applications with all the flexing and stress that entails ... in this for the long-haul and wanting to 'do it right'.

Methinks I shouldn't have started / need to stop this 'hijack / tangent' of Dave's AC retrofit thread, I'll start one about my solar plans when those are a bit more developed
__________________
Alan E.
Prospective Escape 5.0TA Owner (deposit submitted 09/09/2020 for completion 08/18/2021)
Centex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2020, 08:11 AM   #545
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Centex View Post
Methinks I shouldn't have started / need to stop this 'hijack / tangent' of Dave's AC retrofit thread, I'll start one about my solar plans when those are a bit more developed
No worries. It will go where it will go. It amazes me that it has stayed so focused for 544 posts!
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2021, 10:39 PM   #546
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
What a thread!! Thanks to Dave for starting it and the continued work, and to all the other contributors (yes, I read through all of the mini split-specific posts). I have my mini split ready for installation (Mr Cool 9k 19 seer 115v; $716) on a non-Escape (but I used to own an Eggcamper, so I think I understand you guys pretty well!). Still have a growing family and the now-tall kids pushed us into a double bunk instead of a kid on the floor with the dogs. Someday we will return to the good life of fiberglass camping! In the meantime, we decided our project will be to redo a should-have-been-scrapped Jayco to suit our purposes and make it into a homey space. We knew the AC had to go anyway (it had leaked and caused untold, unknown damage to the roof and floor throughout) in order to fit into our barn. I've already redone the floor and the ceiling and now working on getting things built for inside and modified for outside. Anyway, that is more cheap trailer info than is fitting on this forum. Sorry!
I'm planning a tongue mount for the compressor, which moves the propane tanks and battery around, very much inline with Dave's build (but the battery is another issue). I'm considering a 30# LP tank instead of 2 20#ers, which would allow the 12V battery to be moved into the location of the 2nd tank. I'm open to other ideas, though, for battery and LP. Can AGMs really be put inside without venting? Is there a decent lower cost lithium? Why can't I find a suitable single-tank mount? The other problem I have is in getting the right supports to screw/bolt to the A-frame that will support the compressor. I need two cross-pieces for the compressor, but have not run across the right product. I'm open to whatever material makes the most sense. I can post pictures once I figure that out...
(Dave, this is the Troy that contacted you over the weekend. I decided to start my own account rather than hijack my wife's, and saw how helpful the entirety of the group is.) Thanks all!
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2021, 09:45 PM   #547
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
A possible layout with two tanks. Nothing is attached. Need to squeeze a battery in here. Two options are to go with a single tank to leave space for the battery or use the spare tire rack that swings down, which is under the tongue frame.
Line set will run along the frame of the trailer to about mid trailer, turn up and go thru the floor to the interior unit above it on the side wall of the trailer.
Any advice? Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20210101_122948.jpg (188.7 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg 20210101_123119.jpg (170.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg 20210103_135233a.jpg (331.8 KB, 10 views)
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2021, 10:32 PM   #548
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Troy: Glad you joined and read through the (long!) thread. Here is some advice - consider sticking with the dual propane tanks with auto-changeover for convenience since you already have it unless you generally are a very light user of propane and have a spot to carry another spare tank (i.e. truck bed). I agree that it is challenging to find appropriate mounting means for single tanks. My recommendation regarding batteries would be to consider going inside the trailer with AGM or lithium batteries. I have flooded lead acid now under front dinette seat in vented box but have had the hydrogen off-gassing issues and will be most likely upgrading to lithium. AGM’s are a bit simpler as they require less concerns with proper charging with your existing systems. AGM’s should still be in a vented battery box though as they can still release hydrogen if overcharged. Depending on what systems you have lithium might require an upgraded converter main board (charger), a DC-DC charger/isolator on tow vehicle charge line and a solar controller (if applicable) that can be set for lithium. Regarding the tongue mount I think you have a good spot with decent clearances. Consider having a welder create a platform like you have seen in my design. It makes a nice stable platform for you to mount. Be sure to consider your WDH hardware clearances. Consider some means of vibration isolation. I bolted through the outdoor unit feet with rubber pads on each side. I believe I used this: https://www.mcmaster.com/60015K43/ Not so much for the equipment causing vibration into the trailer via the frame when running as much as reducing the harshness of any road vibrations on the equipment. Also we leave a ratchet strap tightened around the outdoor unit to not allow it to move too much if things get bumpy. Hope this helps. Willing to answer any more questions or bounce ideas around.
Dave

Oh and regarding lithium battery pricing all the reputable brands (Battle Born, RELioN, Go Power, Lion Energy) are all pretty high for 100AH 12V form factor ($900-$1000+). Not sure that is coming down anytime soon. I’d love two Battle Born but $1800 plus some add’l electrical mods to accommodate is a little tough to swallow.
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2021, 09:15 PM   #549
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
Thanks. Lithium is priced out I would rather keep the battery out of the trailer, and my real estate is limited on the tongue. So...one tank with a battery in the other's place, or put the battery on the spare tire rack underneath the tongue, and raise the compressor up 3" to make enough room for it. We don't use much propane, and have always only ever had one tank, so this doesn't seem too unreasonable to just have one. The pictures show the primary options, as I see them. Not precisely to scale, but fairly close. I should mention, this is a hybrid trailer, with the front folding down to support a bed, but I have ~8" between top of compressor and the fold down. The "overhang" is just how the front of the trailer slants slightly forward from the tongue up to about 3'. I just need to keep it in mind if I do push it up higher.
The feet have a 0.25" tall x 1.5" wide channel between them, apparently for an optional bracket to mount on a wall. I'm planning to use a 1/4" x 1.5" round spacer in each foot to be able to have a wider, flush contact surface. The feet will then have a damping pad between them and the flat bars that will be welded between two angle-iron pieces that will attach to the trailer frame. Hopefully the sketch makes better sense than my words! In the kit, I received vibration isolating pads that are fairly flexible - ~3" x 2" x 3/4" thick. I wonder if these are sufficient - how flexible is too flexible? Dave suggested some other ones, but I already have these. Or I could go with what the local hardware store owner suggested - rubber stoppers that are ~2" in diameter and ~1" or more thick? Is the best place to attach any of these actually to the feet of the unit, or is it better to have them between the trailer frame and the angle iron that otherwise would be welded on (and the feet would instead be bolted tightly to the metal underneath)? I thought someone earlier in the thread said spacing them out further is better? Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Slide2.JPG (63.6 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Slide3.JPG (62.0 KB, 18 views)
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 09:25 AM   #550
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
Leaning toward these isolation mounts from Amazon rather than the pads provided, since I'm not planning a wide enough flat surface for the pads and these will fit in the channel. Let me know if I'm making a mistake...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20210110-091258_Chrome.jpg (228.3 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 20210109_134848.jpg (406.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg 20210109_135113.jpg (185.1 KB, 2 views)
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 02:26 PM   #551
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpofclay View Post
Leaning toward these isolation mounts from Amazon rather than the pads provided, since I'm not planning a wide enough flat surface for the pads and these will fit in the channel. Let me know if I'm making a mistake...
Troy: Actually that is exactly the same type I used on Jake’s install on the rear of his 21. One side is threaded into the steel bumper/crossmember and the other stud comes up through the foot of the unit with large washer and locknut. Jake had some unexpected degradation of one of the the natural rubber ones so I believe he replaced with a silicone rubber like these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-i...-with-studs-6/
One thing to keep in mind is that they are not a captive design...meaning if the rubber shears or stud-rubber connection fails the unit is no longer attached. Unlikely all four would fail but if one does it puts increased load on the others. This is why Jake keeps a ratchet strap snugged down around the unit while under tow. My arrangement on the 19 with the 2”x2” rubber waffle pad sandwich with thru bolt and double nuts on the underside of the platform is a captive design but we still keep a ratchet strap around the unit at all times to prevent any large movements and reduce stress on the mounts.

Scrap those pads that came with the unit. They are for a stationary application and won’t work well for you.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 7DDE3E99-D8D3-46B7-BF20-2B268BFA0217.jpeg (198.6 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpeg C76B9DE0-2704-41DD-ADB8-2A7B64D8E726.jpeg (173.3 KB, 9 views)
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 02:47 PM   #552
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpofclay View Post
I would rather keep the battery out of the trailer, and my real estate is limited on the tongue. So...one tank with a battery in the other's place, or put the battery on the spare tire rack underneath the tongue, and raise the compressor up 3" to make enough room for it. We don't use much propane, and have always only ever had one tank, so this doesn't seem too unreasonable to just have one. The pictures show the primary options, as I see them. Not precisely to scale, but fairly close.
Troy: Two things come to mind-
1. Do you know your current tongue weight and approximately what it will be with the option where you displace the tire for the battery? The spare tire is likely quite heavy but you are also adding the mini-split condenser (67#) so maybe close to a wash? I only ask because I don’t know how forgiving your trailer is regarding proper weight distribution and don’t want to see you light on the tongue in the end.

2. If you do the battery underneath I would make sure it’s in a stout box to protect it from road debris or a stone coming off the tire. Would hate to see your battery damaged as it is much more vulnerable there than above the frame.
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 04:29 PM   #553
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
Thanks again - I'll probably go for those upgrade isolation mounts, and will definitely strap it down for travel.
Just learned that I can mount AGM batteries on their side, so now I don't have to raise the compressor higher if I use the tire rack. Just need a good, sturdy protective box.
For weight changes - adding a compressor (67#) and metal supports (?#). Taking off tire (31#). Tanks will shift forward. Battery will be heavier than before (probably a group 27 rather than 24). So I'm definitely not going to be light on the tongue. Oh, also removed the sway control attachment from the frame and will be adding an Anderson WDH.
If you or others reply and have a favorite AGM group 27 battery, I'm all ears!
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 06:55 PM   #554
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpofclay View Post
If you or others reply and have a favorite AGM group 27 battery, I'm all ears!
Didn’t realize the spare tire was that light so sounds like you will be heavier on the tongue after you are complete. Where is the spare tire going?

As far as AGM’s I haven’t used them personally but I have done quite a bit of research. I don’t think you can go wrong with a Trojan, Lifeline or Crown.
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 07:10 PM   #555
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
I'll check those out. Thanks!
The spare will travel in a large compartment near the back. This trailer has a thin bumper on the back, so I don't think I can mount it to it...but i'll look into it!
I guess I could even consider a group 31 with it mounted sideways. or does that impact other electrical stuff (I'm not an electrical engineer, obviously)? i'll have to poke around on other threads to see what's been asked and answered.
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2021, 07:14 PM   #556
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpofclay View Post
I guess I could even consider a group 31 with it mounted sideways. or does that impact other electrical stuff (I'm not an electrical engineer, obviously)?
I would get the biggest 12V battery you can fit (highest amp-hours). It’s just more capacity and doesn’t impact anything else electrically.
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2021, 09:39 AM   #557
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Comfort, Texas
Trailer: 2014 5.0TA "The HAB"
Posts: 256
A question about the air handler unit..

I’ve installed a couple of these in cabins and guest rooms and was wondering if the upper cabinet location gave any trouble when the back plate is mounted and the ability to tilt/raise up the air handler unit to slip onto the mounting slots on the plate. All the picts looks so great with fitment in the cabinet and roof space. And if I recall, don’t most of these units try to specify a “distance from ceiling” minimum?
Tford is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2021, 09:51 AM   #558
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 4,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tford View Post
I’ve installed a couple of these in cabins and guest rooms and was wondering if the upper cabinet location gave any trouble when the back plate is mounted and the ability to tilt/raise up the air handler unit to slip onto the mounting slots on the plate. All the picts looks so great with fitment in the cabinet and roof space. And if I recall, don’t most of these units try to specify a “distance from ceiling” minimum?
Rob: The two Fujitsu 9RL2 units that I installed slide into the cabinet opening and do not utilize the factory back plate. This alleviated the tilting issue. They are a snug fit and then 3 or 4 screws go up through the bottom of the cabinet into a thick foam filled piece at the bottom of the unit. The minimum to the ceiling is probably to allow for the tilting to attach and some clearance for return air. Fujitsu states 2-15/32" minimum (for the back plate height - unit might sit a bit higher). I might not meet the exact specs but both units I installed work perfectly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fujitsu 9RL2 install dimensions.JPG (44.5 KB, 13 views)
__________________
Mods to Rubicon: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post249508
“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”― W.F.
rubicon327 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2021, 09:52 AM   #559
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Marne, Michigan
Trailer: 2005 Jayco Jay Feather (rebuild in progress)
Posts: 7
Progress has been made! I got the mounting bracket made locally and attached. compressor fits perfectly on it. Was able to find a local battery supplier that could get a crown battery at a lower price than I could find online (and obviously without the 100s of dollars of shipping that some places would have charged) - $243 for a type 31 Crown AGM. Now the local welder is welding the protective frame for it, which will be mounted on the tire mount under the tongue. it's coming along pretty well, even if the rest of the trailer modifications have been much slower through the winter! Hope you enjoy the pics
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20210206_133231.jpg (184.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 20210207_142910.jpg (215.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg 20210207_154308.jpg (171.9 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 20210206_133302.jpg (220.6 KB, 14 views)
Lumpofclay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2021, 10:01 AM   #560
Site Team
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#4, 2019 Escape21 DejaView pulled by 2014 Ram Hemi/8sp
Posts: 23,137
Looks like a very heavy tongue weight calculation.........
__________________

__________________
Jim
What you get by achieving your goals is not as important as what you become by achieving your goals....
Goethe
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×