Mods I Haven't Seen Elsewhere

[KatrinaOstby]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Have you tried resetting your overpressure valve? ...

Yeah, I've resented--I mean reseated--that blasted pressure relief valve several times a trip. I've tried leaving it flowing for a while. I finally took it to the shop, and guess what? It didn't leak a single drop that day. Of course on my next camping trip, drip, drip, drip

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by KatrinaOstby

Yeah, I've resented--I mean reseated--that blasted pressure relief valve several times a trip. I've tried leaving it flowing for a while. I finally took it to the shop, and guess what? It didn't leak a single drop that day. Of course on my next camping trip, drip, drip, drip

I see your trailer is very new, but even new parts can fail to perform properly. If you are inclined to try a new pressure relief valve this is what you need.

Suburban part # 161157:
http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-16115.../dp/B000BPK7HU

On edit I'm seeing that the 161157 part is "obsolete". The replacement is Suburban 161230 which appears to be lead-free compliant which is likely what drove the change:
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...alve-161230%20

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-1612...uburban+161230

[Vermilye]

Because Escape puts a check valve in the cold water input to the water heater to protect the water pump, when a tank of cold water is heated, pressure builds up (warm water expands).

There is enough additional pressure in the hot water system that some 21 owners have had under the sink leaks from the hot water faucet connection. One way to prevent or lessen the pressure relief valve dripping is to run the hot water for a second or two to release the pressure. The problem is most noticeable in very cold weather when the tank temperature makes the largest change.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Because Escape puts a check valve in the cold water input to the water heater to protect the water pump, when a tank of cold water is heated, pressure builds up (warm water expands).

Jon: I know this has been hashed out in other threads, but I'm still curious as to why Escape installs the check valve at all. It is advised against by Suburban and early Escapes don't have them and things seem to work fine.

[KirkB]

I recall reading on the forum here that the pressure relief valve will drip if there is no air pocket at the top of the hot water tank to absorb the pressure from the water expanding as it is heated.

If this is true, then the drips should stop if the tank is drained and refilled, like during winterizing. And of course, the stopper is clean and tight fitting.

I don't know if this is correct or not. My tank drips a bit when heating, I will see if it continues after de-winterizing.

[Kent]

Originally Posted by KirkB

I recall reading on the forum here that the pressure relief valve will drip if there is no air pocket at the top of the hot water tank to absorb the pressure from the water expanding as it is heated.

If this is true, then the drips should stop if the tank is drained and refilled, like during winterizing. And of course, the stopper is clean and tight fitting.

I don't know if this is correct or not. My tank drips a bit when heating, I will see if it continues after de-winterizing.

You are correct you can replace the air pocket by turning off WH, put WH in bypass mode, let WH cool and use pressure relief valve to get water level down to that point. You can expedite the cooling process by turning on hot tap prior to putting WH into bypass. Turn water back on, turn on WH and once water is heated, the dripping should stop.

Dripping is normal when heating cold water in the WH, but should stop once WH is at operating temperature.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Could have turned it the long way but considering the geographical center of the lower 48 is iin Kansas they are still screwed. Who has one of those flexible mirrors mounted where your map is? Ooh ooh what a great idea for a conversation/ rumor stater on trailer tours.

So thanks, Dave, for planting this idea in my head over a year ago [emoji849]

Here’s the light over the bed now:

[Chris & Patricia]

About 6 months ago, as were putting together the build sheet on our now received 21, there was a discussion on the forum (and I did try and find it) about opening up the space above the microwave cabinet. It seems that ETI has provided an unlisted option for an additional small cupboard and several people had taken up that option. Along with that, the wardrobe would lose the space at the bottom.

We were interested in this option, but with a bit of a twist - rather than the microwave cupboard (as we didn't plan on using a microwave) and upper cupboard, we wanted to see if ETI would provide one big cupboard so we could put in a couple of large drawers for clothing, a "his and hers" drawer. ETI agreed to provide this for us.

Once we got the trailer home, I then added in a shelf and support for the lower and upper drawers and these are shown in the attached pictures along with a picture of the original unlisted option. albeit in a trailer that was a few years old. The wire baskets are ELFA baskets which we had left over from a mod we did in the wardrobe of our old 17B. The other thing we did was to add a mirror on the front of the door. We had this in our 17 as well as standard, but not so in the 21 and felt that we would like this in our 21 and so got a local glass shop to supply the mirror and for only a few extra $ they glued the mirror to the door as well.

[cpaharley2008]

Are those locks on the refer and freezer standard?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Are those locks on the refer and freezer standard?

Locks? I think those are the storage latches (leaves the door partially cracked when the trailer isn't in use).

[cpaharley2008]

Okay, yes they are storage locks to allow airing, thanks

[Steve Clark]

Good idea, Chris and Patricia! In almost 3 years, we have not used our microwave either. We do use the small cabinet above it, but one large cabinet with shelf would be better

[Chris & Patricia]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Okay, yes they are storage locks to allow airing, thanks

Yes Jim, indeed they are and came with the fridge/freezer as standard when we picked it up at ETI.

[sclifrickson]

I’ve wanted to add pilot light switches to certain things, eg the awning power switch, so it’s more readily apparent if it’s on or off. Finally got around to it using drop in replacement switches that trade out directly with stock switches. The only catch is that you must source and run a ground wire to each switch for the light to work, which isn’t hard as a 12v/usb receptacle is standard in this area. Now we have awning, exterior marker lights, and exterior porch lights all with pilot lights. The only unlit switch in this area is the interior lights, but those are pretty obvious when on, so lighted switch is superfluous.



JR Products 12045 Red Illuminated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UC6PKU...p_mob_ap_share

[cpaharley2008]

I like this mod, may have to copy, with your permission of course.....

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I like this mod, may have to copy, with your permission of course.....

Well, yeah! [emoji1303] Half the fun is sharing! Okay, maybe 1/4. Half the fun is figuring out and doing. 1/4 is using, and that leaves 1/4 for sharing.

[gbaglo]

Most of the fun is making labels.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Most of the fun is making labels.

I put labeling at 5% of the fun, +/-2%.

[War Eagle]

Scott, Great mod. Two questions:
1) I haven't fiddled with any of our factory switches yet, but do connectors just slip off the old switch and then back on the new one? Or is there any soldering, etc., involved?
2) Do they really illuminate as bright as the photos suggest (appear so bright that one could read by them!), or is that just photographic artifact?
Thanks, Dale

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Scott, Great mod. Two questions:
1) I haven't fiddled with any of our factory switches yet, but do connectors just slip off the old switch and then back on the new one? Or is there any soldering, etc., involved?
2) Do they really illuminate as bright as the photos suggest (appear so bright that one could read by them!), or is that just photographic artifact?
Thanks, Dale

No soldering required. Connectors are standard spade type. You will need to add at least one crimp on connector, but probably more, to make the neutral wire for each switch.

As to brightness, the pics exaggerate the effect. To be sure they are brightish switches, but nothing like the photo makes them look.