Solar Panel Mounting

[kernwig]

Originally Posted by sherminator

I'm also thinking since I'm only going to put one panel in front, and probably a panel on the rear, that I will mount them lengthwise instead of crosswise.

Here are pictures of the 120W (41.7" x 27.4") sitting on top of my trailer:

Ooh. Let me know how that goes please Sherminator! I'm close to ordering a 100W to go lengthwise down the front of my 21C. It looks like the 120W would fit too through (just 2" longer), and is not only more power but a better value in cost per watt.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Just wondering if these narrow (14") Lensun panels might fit front-to-back on the area between the raised roof section and the edge on the passengers side? That could potentially add another 165W-220W depending on if you could fit 3 or 4.
https://www.lensunsolar.com/Flexible...product_id=384

As was said, Lensun makes various sizes of panels that can be mixed and matched to fit the available roof top space. I used two different Lensun panel sizes about 3 years ago when I added solar to the roof of my 15B. The rooftop space on the 15B is even more limited than on a 19' but the installation has worked out well.

[JeffreyG]

If I can jump in and ask a bunch of dumb questions:

I have a deposit in on an Escape 19, planning a boondocking rig with dual lithium and solar. I'm not keen on the sharp edged standoff mount solar that ETI offers. I'd really like to do the three panel Lensun stick-on approach that I saw here by Mark B1.

Can this be dead simple? Like, if I order the trailer with the Lithium batteries and then also add the rooftop solar pre-wire ($200) from ETI, can I basically just stick these panels on, clip the wires over to the port, and plug them in?

What else to consider? I was thinking this, plus the Zamp port so that I can add another portable panel later if I find I need it (probably because the trailer is in shade, or whatever.)


Appreciate any help, I'm pretty new to solar etc.

[kernwig]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

I'd really like to do the three panel Lensun stick-on approach that I saw here by Mark B1.

Can this be dead simple? Like, if I order the trailer with the Lithium batteries and then also add the rooftop solar pre-wire ($200) from ETI, can I basically just stick these panels on, clip the wires over to the port, and plug them in?

What else to consider? I was thinking this, plus the Zamp port so that I can add another portable panel later if I find I need it (probably because the trailer is in shade, or whatever.)

The solar ready option saves you from having to put a hole in your roof, mount the port, and run wire. I don't think it includes the solar controller, fuses or breakers, and wiring from controller to battery. The external port for a portable panel is separate as well. However, I bet if you ask Escape, they could install all that as well, and just not the panels. Make sure the solar controller you select is rated for the amount of amps of solar panels you wish to install. (The panels' specs state their maximum amperage.) Also consider how you will monitor the controller's input and battery level, and if that's something else to mount. (Some have a remote display, others bluetooth to your phone. I prefer the dedicated display, myself.)

[Mark B1]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

If I can jump in and ask a bunch of dumb questions:

I have a deposit in on an Escape 19, planning a boondocking rig with dual lithium and solar. I'm not keen on the sharp edged standoff mount solar that ETI offers. I'd really like to do the three panel Lensun stick-on approach that I saw here by Mark B1.

Can this be dead simple? Like, if I order the trailer with the Lithium batteries and then also add the rooftop solar pre-wire ($200) from ETI, can I basically just stick these panels on, clip the wires over to the port, and plug them in?

What else to consider? I was thinking this, plus the Zamp port so that I can add another portable panel later if I find I need it (probably because the trailer is in shade, or whatever.)


Appreciate any help, I'm pretty new to solar etc.

kernwig has summed it up correctly. If you go through my post you will also see the controller, breakers/switching, and monitor I installed.

Note that I also run the load through my MPPT controller instead of the existing converter which gives additional loads monitoring features. In doing this I disconnected the charging line from the existing controller. As a result when I am plugged into ground power my battery is still only charging by solar and I get no DC from the controller. This has not been an issue as we are rarely camping where I can plug in to ground power and the solar always keeps the batteries charged.

I do plan to change this when it warms up and reconnect the original charge line, while leaving the solar in in place so both can charge at the same time if it is sunny out and I am plugged. I will install a diode in the line from the converter to stop power from the solar controller from going the wrong way to the converter. I will write it up and add it to my solar install post.

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by Mark B1

kernwig has summed it up correctly. If you go through my post you will also see the controller, breakers/switching, and monitor I installed.

Note that I also run the load through my MPPT controller instead of the existing converter which gives additional loads monitoring features. In doing this I disconnected the charging line from the existing controller. As a result when I am plugged into ground power my battery is still only charging by solar and I get no DC from the controller. This has not been an issue as we are rarely camping where I can plug in to ground power and the solar always keeps the batteries charged.

I was just going to ask about this as I was studying your wiring schematic. I think this area - how the land-line power system and solar system should interact if you want the 12V circuit to work off the land line when plugged in is something I need to figure out. Also I plan to run an invertor, so I'm pretty sure I cannot direct the entire load through the solar charger when running off the batteries.

If and when you update the schematic, I'd be very interested.

Thanks!

[kernwig]

Originally Posted by Mark B1

Note that I also run the load through my MPPT controller instead of the existing converter which gives additional loads monitoring features.

Ah, you're the one I read that did this. I was going to do the same, but realized (1) power would go into the load lines on the controller when plugged in, as you point out, and (2) the controller's manual and anything I read online state that a solar controller's load connection is just for light loads. So I'm just connecting some new USB and 12V ports directly to it, not the whole camper. This is a bummer, since it would be nice to be able to monitor actual usage.

[yangstyle]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

If I can jump in and ask a bunch of dumb questions:

I have a deposit in on an Escape 19, planning a boondocking rig with dual lithium and solar. I'm not keen on the sharp edged standoff mount solar that ETI offers. I'd really like to do the three panel Lensun stick-on approach that I saw here by Mark B1.

Can this be dead simple? Like, if I order the trailer with the Lithium batteries and then also add the rooftop solar pre-wire ($200) from ETI, can I basically just stick these panels on, clip the wires over to the port, and plug them in?

What else to consider? I was thinking this, plus the Zamp port so that I can add another portable panel later if I find I need it (probably because the trailer is in shade, or whatever.)


Appreciate any help, I'm pretty new to solar etc.

I guess one thing to keep in mind is; Does the pre wire have the capacity to handle your panels? Is it the proper gauge?
I think some of the electrical guru's on this site will let you know. I guess it depends on the wattage of the panels you want to use?

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by yangstyle

I guess one thing to keep in mind is; Does the pre wire have the capacity to handle your panels? Is it the proper gauge?
I think some of the electrical guru's on this site will let you know. I guess it depends on the wattage of the panels you want to use?

I'm just going to do the same three 80W panels as Mark B1, so not a huge amount of power.

I'm chugging through threads on solar installs, there are several. I imagine I'll figure it all out eventually.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by yangstyle

I guess one thing to keep in mind is; Does the pre wire have the capacity to handle your panels? Is it the proper gauge?
I think some of the electrical guru's on this site will let you know. I guess it depends on the wattage of the panels you want to use?

A valid point on prewire; AM Solar in Oregon told me in many cases they have to redo the OEM install as it is not done very well for what people want to do later.

[Mark B1]

Originally Posted by kernwig

Ah, you're the one I read that did this. I was going to do the same, but realized (1) power would go into the load lines on the controller when plugged in, as you point out, and (2) the controller's manual and anything I read online state that a solar controller's load connection is just for light loads. So I'm just connecting some new USB and 12V ports directly to it, not the whole camper. This is a bummer, since it would be nice to be able to monitor actual usage.

I never read that in my controller documentation. I run the full 12V load through it and have had no issues. We have done around 50 days since I installed the system. If you where using this system outside of an RV you would want to do it this way. When I have good sun exposure I can see that the solar power can go directly to the load as well as charging the batterys.

I like that this way the monitor also reads the load so you can tell what is happening. I also hooked up Epever's Bluetooth adapter at the start of the winter so I could check on the battery on my phone without going out to the trailer. It is hard to get in the trailer door where it is parked for winter. The Bluetooth adapter works okay for this if I am at the end of the house where the trailer is parked, but the ePower App is very clunky and needs updating. What do you expect for $30. It is fine for my needs but in the summer I will just look at the monitor in the trailer. I read online that you cannot hook up both the monitor and the Bluetooth unit at the same time, but I think that was stated because there is only one CAT5 monitor port. I used a splitter to hook both up and and they they both work at the same time. I had my electronics guru who does a lot of design work, trouble shooting, and repair, go through everything and he saw no issues with trailer load or with hooking in both types of monitors simultaneously.

Of course my brother who also has a 19 with the factory solar installation doesn't worry about any of this and doesn't monitor much more than the battery level when he is camping. He has no issues either. Maybe he is the smart one.

[JeffreyG]

I think I figured out the main question I have with wiring. If the battery is wired conventionally (see the attached sketch from Go-Power) then:

1 - The battery powers all loads directly on the RV circuit. This means the solar monitor can't estimate the usage though, right? This is why Mark B1 wired the loads through the solar?
2 - If the RV is plugged in, the power convertor will charge the battery. This is OK? I don't have to switch off the solar or anything? It's OK for both charge sources to be connected and live?
3 - Any better ways to do this? I do plan to have solar and an inverter. Is this Go-Power schematic in the whole the best way to set it up?

Thanks!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

I think I figured out the main question I have with wiring. If the battery is wired conventionally (see the attached sketch from Go-Power) then:

1 - The battery powers all loads directly on the RV circuit. This means the solar monitor can't estimate the usage though, right? This is why Mark B1 wired the loads through the solar?
2 - If the RV is plugged in, the power convertor will charge the battery. This is OK? I don't have to switch off the solar or anything? It's OK for both charge sources to be connected and live?
3 - Any better ways to do this? I do plan to have solar and an inverter. Is this Go-Power schematic in the whole the best way to set it up?

Thanks!

3. That electrical drawing leaves some things out. Some of the AC circuits should not be run from the inverter. Below is the electrical drawing for my trailer.

[kvermeulen]

1. The batteries power all 12v circuits. The solar controller sends the charge amount to the batteries and controls the amount of charge.
2. If plugged in the converter will then send a charge to the batteries. The solar controller sees this charge and then regulates its charge to the batteries accordingly. It will not over charge.
3. Sorry i cud not read the schematic clearly.

Cheers ken

[Centex]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

3. That electrical drawing leaves some things out. Some of the AC circuits should not be run from the inverter. Below is the electrical drawing for my trailer.

I note that in your schematic the neutral bus in the Inverter Panel is tied to the neutral bus in the Shore (WFCO) AC Panel.

Could you please explain why that arrangement rather than neutral from the Shore AC Panel and the Inverter each being routed through the Transfer Switch to the Inverter Panel? Doesn't a Transfer Switch act on (transfer) both the 'hot' and 'neutral' legs from each input source for safety reasons?

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

I think I figured out the main question I have with wiring. If the battery is wired conventionally (see the attached sketch from Go-Power) then:

1 - The battery powers all loads directly on the RV circuit. This means the solar monitor can't estimate the usage though, right? This is why Mark B1 wired the loads through the solar?
2 - If the RV is plugged in, the power convertor will charge the battery. This is OK? I don't have to switch off the solar or anything? It's OK for both charge sources to be connected and live?
3 - Any better ways to do this? I do plan to have solar and an inverter. Is this Go-Power schematic in the whole the best way to set it up?

Thanks!

TDF diagram is a good place to start. If you order the trailer with pre wire solar, batteries and inverter installed . as your thinking about. all you will have to do it wire the solar controller witch takes a pos and neg from the panels and a positive and negative from the battery. Once set up the controller will handle the charge of the battery . Its all the controller can do is charge the battery, But its good at it. does not matter that at times you be charging from other sources shore power or tow rig.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Mark B1

Of course my brother who also has a 19 with the factory solar installation doesn't worry about any of this and doesn't monitor much more than the battery level when he is camping. He has no issues either. Maybe he is the smart one.

I am terribly offended, even if this is true.

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

TDF diagram is a good place to start. If you order the trailer with pre wire solar, batteries and inverter installed . as your thinking about. all you will have to do it wire the solar controller witch takes a pos and neg from the panels and a positive and negative from the battery. Once set up the controller will handle the charge of the battery . Its all the controller can do is charge the battery, But its good at it. does not matter that at times you be charging from other sources shore power or tow rig.

Easy as falling off a log. My current plan is to do exactly this.


Last dumb question, if both the solar controller and power converter positive battery cables are routed to the battery through a shunt, then I can monitor all power used and replaced in the battery?


Or I can be the smart guy referenced in this thread who just ignores it and finds that it all works out.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Centex

I note that in your schematic the neutral bus in the Inverter Panel is tied to the neutral bus in the Shore (WFCO) AC Panel.

Could you please explain why that arrangement rather than neutral from the Shore AC Panel and the Inverter each being routed through the Transfer Switch to the Inverter Panel? Doesn't a Transfer Switch act on (transfer) both the 'hot' and 'neutral' legs from each input source for safety reasons?

Because I didn't get catch that mistake when I made the drawing - At first, all I showed in the drawing was the hot wires and added the neutral / ground busses after. You're right about the transfer switch having both hot and neutral passed through it as well as the ground.

I'll update my electrical drawing to reflect this.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

Easy as falling off a log. My current plan is to do exactly this.


Last dumb question, if both the solar controller and power converter positive battery cables are routed to the battery through a shunt, then I can monitor all power used and replaced in the battery?


Or I can be the smart guy referenced in this thread who just ignores it and finds that it all works out.

The battery monitor shut will go on the negative side of the battery as close to the battery as possible.It will be easy as your batteries will be inside.


You can put the display any where you comfortable getting a wire. very easy to install in the dinette. In my case i wanted at eye level so I put it next to the tank monitors . This did require fishing some wires around. where under the dinette would not.


Also there is a smart shut with no display. it has Bluetooth connects to phone. no wires for monitor . I installed the 712 smart as i want the display and the blue tooth. No mater what brand or model you chose. It will monitor all current on the negative side of battery. hope this helps