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01-09-2019, 11:19 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,822
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Since I was installing a cabinet door and opening to the left of the entry door and under the flip-up counter extension, I could reach some wires that run down beside the door frame.
Ron
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01-09-2019, 11:42 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Pat/Ron: Where did you grab 12V power for the relocated CO/propane detector? I'm not aware of anything on the galley side down low or maybe I just haven't looked hard enough. Thanks.
Inquired with Escape for the 12" x 11" door. Unfortunately the doors I removed from the upper front cabinet when I installed my mini-split are too wide.
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Dave since I opened up the whole area where wheels were , the wood is just glued and stapled , you can tap off the 12 volt wiring you will see in that space . I believe the wiring for us was for the 12 volt switches at the doorway or kitchen light . Escape had used red and black .I also put spade connections on wires to make easy to change the detector in future. Pat
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01-09-2019, 01:07 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
Since I was installing a cabinet door and opening to the left of the entry door and under the flip-up counter extension, I could reach some wires that run down beside the door frame.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Dave since I opened up the whole area where wheels were , the wood is just glued and stapled , you can tap off the 12 volt wiring you will see in that space . I believe the wiring for us was for the 12 volt switches at the doorway or kitchen light. Escape had used red and black. I also put spade connections on wires to make easy to change the detector in future. Pat
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Thanks guys. The older trailers don't have any switches by the door, but I will hopefully find something to tap into down in that space.
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01-09-2019, 03:38 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Thanks guys. The older trailers don't have any switches by the door, but I will hopefully find something to tap into down in that space.
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Sorry Dave . If you have a kitchen light , the chase in the doorway would let you run wires down , it is pretty roomy in there . I am sure you will figure something out . Pat
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01-09-2019, 09:17 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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I found that the 3 switches by the front door in my 2018 only had hot wires being switched. When I installed the LEDs I had to get a ground from the rear of the new flush stove. I would think trailers with the older stoves would not have any ground wires in the area.
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01-09-2019, 09:23 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape
I found that the 3 switches by the front door in my 2018 only had hot wires being switched. When I installed the LEDs I had to get a ground from the rear of the new flush stove. I would think trailers with the older stoves would not have any ground wires in the area.
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Guess we were lucky with 2 wires to tap in ,on a 2013 . Having switches at the doorway was something we requested for our build . Pat
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01-10-2019, 01:17 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,822
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There are lots of wires at the rear bulkhead end of the counter and if you're opening up the panel you'll have easy access to them.
Ron
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01-10-2019, 07:35 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Inquired with Escape for the 12" x 11" door. Unfortunately the doors I removed from the upper front cabinet when I installed my mini-split are too wide.
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Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
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01-10-2019, 09:23 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Fremont, California
Trailer: 2016 21/ '16 Tundra 4.6L Dbl. Cab
Posts: 1,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
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Yes, and for others who may be comparison shopping, the $72 US includes the hardware of hinges, handle and screws.
__________________
Steve and Debbie
2016 - 21'
“Get out the map and lay your finger anywhere down” -Indigo Girls
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01-10-2019, 09:28 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Dave,
If you want to pay for the door I can get it for you when we pick the trailer up right before the rally in May. York is not that far from you then. Let me know your decision.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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01-10-2019, 09:30 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Clark
Yes, and for others who may be comparison shopping, the $72 US includes the hardware of hinges, handle and screws.
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Thank you Steve. I didn't mention it, but I did ask for it quoted with hardware.
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01-10-2019, 01:28 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Dave,
If you want to pay for the door I can get it for you when we pick the trailer up right before the rally in May. York is not that far from you then. Let me know your decision.
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Jim: Thank you. That is a very nice offer. Let me see if I can modify the 8"x15" door I have on hand first and I will let you know.
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01-10-2019, 01:38 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
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I think I would cut center of the existing end joint (in red) carefull to stop once through the outer frame. Then reinstall the end board with screws and glue once the center board had been cut to size.
Or for those that don’t have a spare door...go to a used building supply store and buy a vent. Then paint to the colour of your choice. This NuTone one is a nice size at 8.5 w x 10.5 h ...probably from a bathroom fan. This one is aluminium so you would have to use double sided tape to hold on the little steal plates that come with magnetic latches to hold it on secretly. A fake knob in the middle that original held it on would make for a good handle to remove it. Everyone will be impressed that your Escape came with ducked heating.
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01-10-2019, 01:47 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape
I think I would cut center of the existing end joint (in red) careful to stop once through the outer frame. Then reinstall the end board with screws and glue once the center board had been cut to size.
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That is exactly what I will do. Thanks!
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01-10-2019, 02:06 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
That is exactly what I will do. Thanks!
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Dave if you can get your hands on a biscuit joiner , makes a strong real attachment . Maybe harbor freight or you know someone . Pat
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01-11-2019, 08:36 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Port Angeles, Washington
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 198
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Doing some design contemplation prior to cutting my way in...
On an E19-Gen2, what is the footprint size wall to wall of the space under the heater please? Besides wire, which can be extended, is there anything else to be dealt with or which limits width or depth?
Thanks! Doug
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01-11-2019, 09:18 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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The best thing to do is remove the detector and look in the hole yourself.
On my 2018 there is a gas line to the left and a sewer pipe to the right. To get the largest opening the door would be taller than wider.
If you can wait...there will be a full write up in Modifications to Eggscape by this time next week. I would suggest that anyone with a late model drag their feet and not order a door or cut any holes just yet.
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01-11-2019, 10:36 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Port Angeles, Washington
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Posts: 198
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Thank you. I shall await your posting and photos.
Doug
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01-12-2019, 06:50 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Just remember, each Escape can be a little different. Sometimes it can be an installers change, sometimes it is a measurement change, but each one is hand made inside.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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