Battery charging with generator

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeEZ

There's lots of good advice in this thread about replacing Escape’s stock WFCO 8955 main board assembly with the Progressive Dynamics WildKat Model PD4655VL.

Randy at bestconverter.com still says the BY FAR best option for Escape owners is the Progressive Dynamics Model PD4655VL that he sells:

PD 4655L MBA WildKat 55 Amp Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955 (Includes 4600 Remote) $213.00 <PD 4655L MBA WildKat 55 Amp Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955 or Parallax 7155 (Includes 4600 Remote)>

We don’t want to run the generator any more than is absolutely necessary.

The trailer’s stock WFCO WF-8955 power center is rated at 940 watts AC input; the WildKat’s rated about the same, 950 watts. Our Honda EU-1000 generator’s steady rating is 900 watts, less than either the WFCO’s or the WildKat's input rating.

Question 1: Is the Honda EU-1000 adequate for the WFCO converter since the generator’s steady rating of 900 watts is less that the WFCO’s input rating of 940 watts? I assume that if it’s not, there’s no reason to get the WildKat.

Question 2: If I can’t use my generator to charge the batteries using the WFCO converter, does anyone have a suggestion about a different single-purpose battery charger to use with my generator?

Question 3: If I were to get a Honda EU-2000 or the newer EU-2200 would it then make sense to swap for the WildKat?

Thanks so much

The issue is really not the generator but the convertor.
The stock WFCO convertor is really a battery replacement and likes to only ever run at about 13.6 volts or so.
At that voltage it takes a day or so to charge a battery. Here is a quote from someone testing exactly what we are trying to do. ( I apologize it was from a forum and I didn't save the link. )

"You have to have something that puts out 14.4VDC at around 20AMPS to be able to re-charge a deep cycle battery in as little as three hours. Nothing else works... Like the chart I sent above 13.6VDC requires 40 hours to get to 90% charge state."

So the 13.6 is not pushing amps into the battery, 14.4 is pushing amps into the battery.
I "upgraded" my convertor but after finding out more, I put the original wfco unit back into the Escape. The "upgrade" convertor has an adjustable voltage setting on it. I have set that to 14.5 volts and put it into a ammo container so that when I need it I will plug it into the generator and connect it straight to the batteries. (With a battery plug thing that I will unplug from the Escape and connect to this outboard 14.5 volt convertor.) And then run the generator for the 3 hrs (max) maybe less, monitoring the voltage at intervals.

The issue with the 3 stage chargers is that they only stay on stage one for one hour.

I think the Wildcat has an optional remote cable that can retrigger that one hour every time you hit the button, if it's the one with the wizard picture on it.

Sorry, just clicked on the link and I see it is the one with the wizard remote. So your on the right path, you will just have to monitor it and press the button.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by jxoco

The issue is really not the generator but the convertor.
The stock WFCO convertor is really a battery replacement and likes to only ever run at about 13.6 volts or so.
At that voltage it takes a day or so to charge a battery. Here is a quote from someone testing exactly what we are trying to do. ( I apologize it was from a forum and I didn't save the link. )

"You have to have something that puts out 14.4VDC at around 20AMPS to be able to re-charge a deep cycle battery in as little as three hours. Nothing else works... Like the chart I sent above 13.6VDC requires 40 hours to get to 90% charge state."

So the 13.6 is not pushing amps into the battery, 14.4 is pushing amps into the battery.
I "upgraded" my convertor but after finding out more, I put the original wfco unit back into the Escape. The "upgrade" convertor has an adjustable voltage setting on it. I have set that to 14.5 volts and put it into a ammo container so that when I need it I will plug it into the generator and connect it straight to the batteries. (With a battery plug thing that I will unplug from the Escape and connect to this outboard 14.5 volt convertor.) And then run the generator for the 3 hrs (max) maybe less, monitoring the voltage at intervals.

The issue with the 3 stage chargers is that they only stay on stage one for one hour.

I think the Wildcat has an optional remote cable that can retrigger that one hour every time you hit the button, if it's the one with the wizard picture on it.

Sorry, just clicked on the link and I see it is the one with the wizard remote. So your on the right path, you will just have to monitor it and press the button.

I have solar which charges the batteries if there is enough sun. When the batteries get too low due to too many cloudy days, I charge the batteries with a portable generator and a good battery charger. The charger I have is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756NVGHY...ogi&th=1&psc=1

It's small enough to be able to store it until I need it, weighs about 3 lbs, and does a great job of getting the batteries back to full charge with the generator in a short time.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

When the batteries get too low due to too many cloudy days, I charge the batteries with a portable generator and a good battery charger. The charger I have is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756NVGHY...ogi&th=1&psc=1

It's small enough to be able to store it until I need it, weighs about 3 lbs, and does a great job of getting the batteries back to full charge with the generator in a short time.

I have a similar Schumacher charger, and it works well (at home - I don't take any charger with me), but I'll note that this charger (SC1304) can only put out 15 amps, which is typical of home automotive chargers. A full charge of dual batteries from 50% discharged will take several hours. Something like Schumacher's 71328 will put out up to 40 amps for faster charging, if desired (ignore the even higher-current "start" mode).

[Lanark Camper]

The manual I have for my converter says it will output 14.4 V for 4 hrs while in bulk mode, then drop to 13.6 absorption mode, finally 13.2 in float mode.



I haven't run the batteries down enough to really watch this cycle. We were usually moving so had full batteries each night with our solar and whatever the truck got into them in 8 hrs. on the highway.


I have the EU 2000 Honda, and a couple of small battery chargers, a 35 A and a 40 A I bought many years ago for use on sailboats. I think if the converter does not work out I'll use one of these battery chargers rather than change the converter out.


Bob

[padlin]

Certainly worth trying it. I tested mine a couple years ago, it hits 14.4 for a few seconds then goes to 13.6 and stays there when I was down to 60% SOC. It's pretty well known that WFCO's don't go into bulk. The time I checked from 60% SOC test took over 24 hours to fully charge according to the Bogart controller.

I only checked this once.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Lanark Camper

The manual I have for my converter says it will output 14.4 V for 4 hrs while in bulk mode, then drop to 13.6 absorption mode, finally 13.2 in float mode.



I haven't run the batteries down enough to really watch this cycle. We were usually moving so had full batteries each night with our solar and whatever the truck got into them in 8 hrs. on the highway.


I have the EU 2000 Honda, and a couple of small battery chargers, a 35 A and a 40 A I bought many years ago for use on sailboats. I think if the converter does not work out I'll use one of these battery chargers rather than change the converter out.


Bob

If you are looking at the WFCO manual, only in its dreams. It is almost impossible to get it to go into the bulk mode, sits for a short time in the absorption mode, but switches to float way too early.

Very conservative since it will rarely cause the batteries to off gas, but if you are trying to charge with a generator, it can be frustrating.

[AKCamper]

Like I posted earlier this unit can charge selectively 14.2 or 13.6 all day long or do four stage charging with optional IQ4 smart charger adapter.

[John in Santa Cruz]

the classic 3-stage charge for a lead acid battery is somethign like this...

1) bulk phase: max current up to 13.6-13.8V until the current drops below about C/20, this achieves the ffirst 80% of the charge

2) absorption phase: 14.2-14.4V until the current drops to near zero, or a few hours passes. this puts in the last 20%

3) maintenance phase, drop back to 13.2-13.4V which is a trickle charge voltage to prevent leakage.


I have no complaints with the WDCO iin my Escape, but I replaced the Progressive with a PD in my Casita.

[Flyfisherdan]

I have a 2017 21' trailer, as well as a similar battery charger to yours. When using your battery charger with a generator, do you disconnect the battery or use it while the battery is connected?

What have you found for charge time for your battery from 50% SOC (FYI-I have 2 6volts)?

Thanks,

Dan

[hondasaurus]

"I have a 2017 21' trailer, as well as a similar battery charger to yours. When using your battery charger with a generator, do you disconnect the battery or use it while the battery is connected?"

Well, in our case, I did not change the converter. When hunting again for a week last autumn and used the Honda 1000 gen to recharge the battery ( deep cycle 12 v from Escape). Do not disconnect anything. Just use a grounded plug for the gen.

We ran the generator each morning for about 1,5 hour and again at night for about 3 h. During that time, it charge the battery without depletion from the light and fan furnace or other 12 -120 volts usage in the trailer like cell, radio or heated glove.

The Honda gen works ok (around 1/2 load) and the charge of the battery from the trailer is good for the furnace fan for the night. The next morning the control indicate around 75% charged. During the day, the solar panel is trying to get some ray but it is not efficient as the day are short1 cloudy and in late October the ray aren't direct.

We sleep with the thermostat at 65 degrees at outside temperature as low as minus 18 celsius or 0 F. The furnace fan runs around 60% of the time at minus 18 and around 40% of the time at minus 10 celsius.

We will pursuit that way for the next few year.

[Flyfisherdan]

Originally Posted by hondasaurus

"I have a 2017 21' trailer, as well as a similar battery charger to yours. When using your battery charger with a generator, do you disconnect the battery or use it while the battery is connected?"

Well, in our case, I did not change the converter. When hunting again for a week last autumn and used the Honda 1000 gen to recharge the battery ( deep cycle 12 v from Escape). Do not disconnect anything. Just use a grounded plug for the gen.

We ran the generator each morning for about 1,5 hour and again at night for about 3 h. During that time, it charge the battery without depletion from the light and fan furnace or other 12 -120 volts usage in the trailer like cell, radio or heated glove.

The Honda gen works ok (around 1/2 load) and the charge of the battery from the trailer is good for the furnace fan for the night. The next morning the control indicate around 75% charged. During the day, the solar panel is trying to get some ray but it is not efficient as the day are short1 cloudy and in late October the ray aren't direct.

We sleep with the thermostat at 65 degrees at outside temperature as low as minus 18 celsius or 0 F. The furnace fan runs around 60% of the time at minus 18 and around 40% of the time at minus 10 celsius.

We will pursuit that way for the next few year.

Thank you for your reply and sharing info.

Dan

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Biggest problem I found with charging with the generator is that last 20% can take hours with lead acid .the solar seems to do better topping off the last 20%