Door frame gasket adhesive?

[Mike Lewis]

I have an older Escape with the curved door. The door frame gasket has come loose. The gasket itself is in good shape. What should I use to keep it in place? Thanks.

[Chris R]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I have an older Escape with the curved door. The door frame gasket has come loose. The gasket itself is in good shape. What should I use to keep it in place? Thanks.

Which gasket, on the shell or the door?
I think the one on the shell is friction fit (similar to a car) , it has metal in it and can be squeezed to get a tighter fit.

[HABBERDABBER]

If not a metal core, friction fit gasket, a very robust adhesive is contact cement, used for adhering laminate in kitchen counters, etc. Available at the BIG box stores, and get the strongest variety you can. Some are "eco" non-smelly. I use the bad stuff.
Read the instructions. You have one shot at placement!

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by Chris R

Which gasket, on the shell or the door?
I think the one on the shell is friction fit (similar to a car) , it has metal in it and can be squeezed to get a tighter fit.

The one on the shell. I see what look like rust stains in the area. This is puzzling, but if the gasket has a metal clamp inside maybe it has rusted.

[tractors1]

Same issue with the shell gasket came up today for me. I've been doing experiments with various adhesives for the products and projects I make from plastics to Corian counter fabrications over the last month. Try not to laugh, but an amazing glue is Gorilla Clear Super Glue. Far better than any other glues with fiberglass components (and Corian countertops.) Will be trying it on the same shell gasket tomorrow and report back.

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

The one on the shell. I see what look like rust stains in the area. This is puzzling, but if the gasket has a metal clamp inside maybe it has rusted.

Agree with Chris. The gasket on the shell has a metal core that crimps around the flange. They rust out. Suggest ordering a new one from ETI and also recommend that you order the heavy duty gasket for the bottom of the door opening where it gets stepped on.

[Mike G]

New gasket material is quite affordable, and it comes with the stickum already applied; just peel and stick. Since gaskets do get somewhat misshapen and less pliable with time, why not spring for some new stuff as long as you're at it? Just a thought. I bought a roll last month from Amazon; they have many different shapes and diameters to match one's application.

[tractors1]

I'd do a postmortem on the failed part - if it is a failure due to rust, I would think dozens of failures would have been reported over all the years of production and this is the first one I've heard of being attributed to rust. My 2014 came loose probably from kicking it while exiting the trailer.

[Iowa Dave]

Reace sent us a piece for the 19 when we had it. It went across the bottom of the door and up the sides of the opening a few inches. It came with some instructions for installation and making an overlapping tapered cut at the junction between the old and new. As stated, there is a zipper looking core on the gasket that can be firmly crimped onto the fiberglass door frame with some small channelocks. There may have been some minor rust but nothing that caused failure. Failure was in the form of wear out of the rubber from stepping on it as folks exited the trailer. it's only natural. It was an easy repair that we only did once and the tapered cut kept the junction from leaking. back in the day there was no charge for the repair strip Escape even covered the postage. perhaps that has changed.
iowa Dave

[Mike Lewis]

I took a closer look this afternoon. The metal clip in the gasket is indeed rusted out. The gasket itself is in good shape otherwise.

I'm about to leave on another trip. I'll order another gasket from ETI when I return home. In the meantime I think I'll hold it in place with silicone. Thanks all.