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10-06-2018, 07:28 AM
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#121
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MimStan
For those that prefer sliding windows, but struggle with ventilation in the rain, this Maxxaire product performs very well. We had them on the sliders in our previous Scamp and they allowed ventilation in sideways rain and wind:
Airxcel | Maxxair | Window/Maxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
Folks on FGRV were saying they are no longer made.
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Correct. These are no longer made. Got a tip off FGRV that two were sitting in a small RV shop in Ohio. They were nice enough to ship them to me. Just put them on two of our sliders yesterday. The rear passenger side just barely clears the awning arm. Looking forward to better ventilation in the rain coupled with the MaxxFan. On the classic 19 all other windows are either fixed (front and back) or under the awning (and the emergency egress window is awning style).
Check smaller RV shops. There still might be some of these laying around.
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10-06-2018, 07:38 AM
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#122
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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I think I posted this before on a different thread, but we have slider windows and have increased air circulation during rainy weather by fabricating a bug screen that props the stove vent open as an air inlet to help vent air for the MaxxFan. I forgot to stow it for travel one time, and it stayed in place for a 4 hour mostly interstate trip. I also use it to help air circulate passively through the camper during storage. Then because we live in the humid South, I dehumidify the camper once a month or as needed. Typically drops internal humidity from around 70% to around 50% in a few hours.
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10-06-2018, 09:27 AM
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#123
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
I think I posted this before on a different thread, but we have slider windows and have increased air circulation during rainy weather by fabricating a bug screen that props the stove vent open as an air inlet to help vent air for the MaxxFan. I forgot to stow it for travel one time, and it stayed in place for a 4 hour mostly interstate trip. I also use it to help air circulate passively through the camper during storage. Then because we live in the humid South, I dehumidify the camper once a month or as needed. Typically drops internal humidity from around 70% to around 50% in a few hours.
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Good idea. With the SAM-1 hood upgrade screen is already in place and slide damper inside. Just tried it with the Maxxfan on and it pulls in significant air.
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02-19-2019, 06:28 PM
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#124
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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We just had our 19’s small bath window fail (the no-longer-available dual pane thermal frameless type) but Dave in ETI’s service department told me he had not seen this particular mode of failure yet, so I thought I’d share it here, along with attempted remedy.
So unlike most of the failures people seem to have had with these windows, where the adhesive between the panes fails and the separate, in my case, the little aluminum channel that is bonded to the window - the one that the closure mechanism attaches to - came off the window.
Interestingly, it wasn’t the double sided adhesive tape that failed. The aluminum channel is painted black, and the paint that the adhesive was glued to came off cleanly, revealing bright shiny metal underneath.
Dave recommended trying an auto glass shop to see if they have a suggestion for rebonding, but as we are mid-trip that’s not possible just now, so instead I am trying a Gorilla brand double sided tape, similar to VHB, along with some duct tape as a backup. Hopefully this will hold it together until we can get a permanent fix, although the Gorilla tape packaging does indicate that it’s both permanent and all-weather. We shall see.
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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02-19-2019, 07:30 PM
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#125
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: North of Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 2018 -21-picked up in May 2019 / 2018 F 150 5.0
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
I think I posted this before on a different thread, but we have slider windows and have increased air circulation during rainy weather by fabricating a bug screen that props the stove vent open as an air inlet to help vent air for the MaxxFan. I forgot to stow it for travel one time, and it stayed in place for a 4 hour mostly interstate trip. I also use it to help air circulate passively through the camper during storage. Then because we live in the humid South, I dehumidify the camper once a month or as needed. Typically drops internal humidity from around 70% to around 50% in a few hours.
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This looks like a really good idea. Do you happen to remember the size of the screen? We don't pick up our 21 until May but I think this will help with ventilation.
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02-19-2019, 08:44 PM
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#126
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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If the tape fails in the future, you might want to try some rear view mirror glue. You should be able to pick up some from your Auto supply store. Try to get the biggest tube available as most are just enough to do a little square.
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02-19-2019, 09:37 PM
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#127
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
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Scott the product you what is urethane, best advice I could give you would be to talk to a glass shop, explain the problem and offer to bring the trailer in.
Our shop used to do little favours like this for people all the time. It’s basically clean prep and primer then a quick bead of urethane tape in place for an hour and your good to go.
__________________
Cheers
Doug
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02-19-2019, 10:57 PM
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#128
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGDriver
Scott the product you what is urethane, best advice I could give you would be to talk to a glass shop, explain the problem and offer to bring the trailer in.
Our shop used to do little favours like this for people all the time. It’s basically clean prep and primer then a quick bead of urethane tape in place for an hour and your good to go.
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Awesome! Thanks, Doug!
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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02-20-2019, 05:57 PM
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#129
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yangstyle
This looks like a really good idea. Do you happen to remember the size of the screen? We don't pick up our 21 until May but I think this will help with ventilation.
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I've attached a photo showing the long dimension (11 inches?). I'll have to pull it out to measure the other. I believe it was rough cut 6" then double-folded 1/2" resulting in a final 4". I added the electrician's tape on the ends to prevent the screen ends from scratching the vent housing and help seal the ends against the inside of the vent.
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02-20-2019, 06:31 PM
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#130
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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While you are measuring and cutting, I cut a piece of reflective to push up inside the vent for when the trailer is winterized and sitting in storage, also the same for the exterior shower compartment, all of these openings are potential heat loss areas.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-20-2019, 07:02 PM
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#131
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Monona, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2023 21NE "Hardley II" 2021 Toyota Tacoma (Diesel Jeep stranded us twice so it had to go)
Posts: 341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
We just had our 19’s small bath window fail (the no-longer-available dual pane thermal frameless type) but Dave in ETI’s service department told me he had not seen this particular mode of failure yet, so I thought I’d share it here, along with attempted remedy.
So unlike most of the failures people seem to have had with these windows, where the adhesive between the panes fails and the separate, in my case, the little aluminum channel that is bonded to the window - the one that the closure mechanism attaches to - came off the window.
Attachment 37128
Interestingly, it wasn’t the double sided adhesive tape that failed. The aluminum channel is painted black, and the paint that the adhesive was glued to came off cleanly, revealing bright shiny metal underneath.
Dave recommended trying an auto glass shop to see if they have a suggestion for rebonding, but as we are mid-trip that’s not possible just now, so instead I am trying a Gorilla brand double sided tape, similar to VHB, along with some duct tape as a backup. Hopefully this will hold it together until we can get a permanent fix, although the Gorilla tape packaging does indicate that it’s both permanent and all-weather. We shall see.
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Our bathroom window failed the same way in the fall of 2017 I taped it a couple times while we waited for the replacement. I planed to install it last spring but then we got too busy camping so I finally just JB Welded it. it's held ever since so the replacement is still sitting in the garage.
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02-20-2019, 07:16 PM
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#132
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
While you are measuring and cutting, I cut a piece of reflective to push up inside the vent for when the trailer is winterized and sitting in storage, also the same for the exterior shower compartment, all of these openings are potential heat loss areas.
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For those that don’t know Jim is referring to Reflectix which is a brand of insulation.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/reflectix-r...BoCxQQQAvD_BwE
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02-21-2019, 06:55 AM
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#133
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Yes, that darn spell checker stopped me again, REFLECTIX.....the same stuff those window sun shades are made from.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-21-2019, 06:57 AM
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#134
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Our bathroom window failed the same way in the fall of 2017 I taped it a couple times while we waited for the replacement. I planed to install it last spring but then we got too busy camping so I finally just JB Welded it. it's held ever since so the replacement is still sitting in the garage.
and the bidding will start at the next rally........
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-21-2019, 08:53 AM
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#135
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: North of Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 2018 -21-picked up in May 2019 / 2018 F 150 5.0
Posts: 262
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trying to figure out the quote buttons
Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle
I've attached a photo showing the long dimension (11 inches?). I'll have to pull it out to measure the other. I believe it was rough cut 6" then double-folded 1/2" resulting in a final 4". I added the electrician's tape on the ends to prevent the screen ends from scratching the vent housing and help seal the ends against the inside of the vent.
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Thanks for the measurement. I am going to do this for sure. We ordered the slider window's and a little extra ventilation seems like a good idea.
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02-21-2019, 09:00 AM
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#136
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: North of Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 2018 -21-picked up in May 2019 / 2018 F 150 5.0
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
While you are measuring and cutting, I cut a piece of reflective to push up inside the vent for when the trailer is winterized and sitting in storage, also the same for the exterior shower compartment, all of these openings are potential heat loss areas.
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That's a good idea, I might pick some up.
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02-21-2019, 09:16 AM
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#137
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper (#083); 2017 Escape 21 (#053); 2016 F-150 5.0L FX4
Posts: 1,765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yangstyle
Thanks for the measurement. I am going to do this for sure. We ordered the slider window's and a little extra ventilation seems like a good idea.
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I just measured the screen, and final measurements are 11" x 2 3/4". With double 1/2" folds on each side, that means I started somewhere around 11" x 4 3/4". If you have the same vent, 11 1/8" long would be a closer fit without the electrician's tape on the ends. The tape doesn't stick very well to the screen wire, so I have to replace it from time to time. Best of luck....
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02-21-2019, 07:21 PM
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#138
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Our bathroom window failed the same way in the fall of 2017 I taped it a couple times while we waited for the replacement. I planed to install it last spring but then we got too busy camping so I finally just JB Welded it. it's held ever since so the replacement is still sitting in the garage.
and the bidding will start at the next rally........
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It occurred to me also that any NOS of these windows could end up being quite valuable. What do old, generally unavailable Boler parts and fixtures go for these days?
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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02-21-2019, 07:55 PM
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#139
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
It occurred to me also that any NOS of these windows could end up being quite valuable. What do old, generally unavailable Boler parts and fixtures go for these days?
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For an example, the Barman L-400 door latch set used in many Bolers is long out of production, and when the occasional NOS example shows up (I haven't heard of one for a couple of years) the asking price is typically a couple hundred dollars. A functionally comparable but incompatible (doesn't fit the space in the door) latch set is under fifty bucks new.
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02-21-2019, 10:10 PM
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#140
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
For an example, the Barman L-400 door latch set used in many Bolers is long out of production, and when the occasional NOS example shows up (I haven't heard of one for a couple of years) the asking price is typically a couple hundred dollars. A functionally comparable but incompatible (doesn't fit the space in the door) latch set is under fifty bucks new.
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I just laugh when I hear about the L-400 and bolers. It's not about boler owners that have driven up the price, it's the Airstream and Siliver Streak crowd. Some years and models of Airsteams and Silver Streaks used that particular lockset and some of the owners are absolutely dedicated to 'original' while the boler crowd is more interested in something that works and looks 'okay.' Enter Ian Giles.. he saw a need, created and manufactured a kit that allows a standard (several different manufacturers) lockset to work well with very little change to the door.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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