New Furnace Protocol

Ron in BC · 10-25-2023, 07:50 PM

Previously I'd posted that a friend picked up his 17B in May, tested all systems and all was fine. Then one cold night, he went to use the furnace--stop me if you've heard this before--and it didn't work.

Multiple attempts in the days following, new sail switch etc. and no joy. If it was warm the furnace worked just fine, when it was cold it wouldn't stay running.

He was told that the new ETI protocol involved involved drilling some additional holes for ventilation and removing the duct behind the grill. He tried it and it worked.

He's just returned from a trip where the overnight temperatures were cold and the furnace worked as it should.

This is what he told ETI.

Good news, we have tested the furnace on several trips, and it works well! So, the update is that we drilled 6 holes 1.25 inch in diameter in the furnace cabinet as directed. This still did not solve the problem. We next removed the foil duct between the furnace outlet and the plastic grill, and the furnace worked. I reinstalled the duct and the furnace did not work. I removed the duct and it worked. I repeated this 3 times. My conclusion is the issue with the furnace was that it was not getting enough air flow and the combination of the cabinet holes to improve air entry, and the removal of the foil duct to improve air exiting, solved the problem. It was a hassle to get the furnace working but we are very happy that it is working, flawlessly, now.

Take care and thanks. We are enjoying the trailer.

Ron

rubicon327 · 10-25-2023, 08:10 PM

Not surprised to hear this Ron. Back in 2020 I questioned the resistance of the foil supply duct AND the adequacy of the return air path given these are built pretty tightly into a cabinet. The only air back is essentially through the balance of the front grille not used up by the supply duct. Glad that Escape is finally getting this figured out.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post364872

WillyB · 10-26-2023, 04:50 AM

We have a 21C. Could we not cut a hole in the wood cabinetry on the side by the bed and add a nice looking vent so return air could enter?

Cutting holes in the furnace seems a bit scary to me.

Rockhead · 10-26-2023, 07:00 AM

Any pictures of this modification

**MrLynn** · 10-26-2023, 07:01 AM

So far our Suburban furnace has worked fine (knock wood!). I don't think the previous owner drilled any holes. Maybe a different model from others?

rubicon327 · 10-26-2023, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillyB

We have a 21C. Could we not cut a hole in the wood cabinetry on the side by the bed and add a nice looking vent so return air could enter?

Cutting holes in the furnace seems a bit scary to me.

I don't think that was what the post is implying to cut holes in the furnace casing. I think the holes were cut somewhere in the wood cabinet to provide openings to a larger area for which the furnace can pull return. A grille on the side of the cabinet might work in a 21. Just make sure that it is not going to increase the noise considerably. Unless it is down very low you would have direct line of sight to the bed.

CharlesPou · 10-26-2023, 09:07 AM

wow!!!, this is too great, if works. several years ago a guy sent me pm's about this mod, and I thought nuts, didn't try. after I get refrigerator, water heater working, maybe do this mod? so many fixes, hard to keep track haha. cheers

Ron in BC · 10-26-2023, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillyB

We have a 21C. Could we not cut a hole in the wood cabinetry on the side by the bed and add a nice looking vent so return air could enter?

Cutting holes in the furnace seems a bit scary to me.

First of all the RV tech at ETI who dealt with this is Pat. Anyone with a furnace problem should directly ask for him, he seems to be on top of the situation.

The second hand explanation is the furnace, at least on a 17B, is a tight fit and there's not a lot of air flow past it. The mod, as I understand it, and will confirm later, was to drill the holes up from underneath to allow more airflow. The holes are through the wood shelf and the furnace isn't touched at all.

Ron

CharlesPou · 10-26-2023, 12:46 PM

interesting trailer is 17B, not my trailer, I have 2018 Escape 21C. plus, I think my issue is altitude, a little different from OP's issue IMO. but good info Escape has guy to contact about furnace issues, Pat. problem for me will be to remember his name, after I get stuff done that is more pressing than furnace at this moment lols. cheers

MarkinVan · 10-26-2023, 12:56 PM

Pat was the guy who did the actual service on our trailer when we took our E19 in to Escape for service and add on's. He did an excellent job.

He also commented that high speeds will be the biggest reason for wheel bearing problems.

Ron in BC · 10-26-2023, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

but good info Escape has guy to contact about furnace issues, Pat. problem for me will be to remember his name,

That's why I put his name in this thread, I'll probably forget it too.

OTOH folks with great search skills like rubicon will always be able to find it.

Ron

WillyB · 10-26-2023, 04:08 PM

A little something to help remember the name.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV4kBndQJlE

CharlesPou · 11-21-2023, 01:14 AM

I got refrigerator working, reinstalled the waterheater outside frame hopefully to stop fumes coming into trailer, installed another catch on lower cabinet door that keeps coming open and recently broke the hinge. and got awning motion sensor to work, yay!!! so, I'm definitely on a roll and probably good time to try and get my furnace to work lols.

so new furnace protocal is fairly mysterious in terms of where to drill any holes IMO, but removing the duct seems like an easy test. I'll try that next time furnace won't light. might be awhile because mine doesn't seem to be bothered by cold, but by altitude, approx 6000' or above. I don't camp at that elevation often, so just have to wait until conditions are right. last time it acted up was Tonapah NV, approx 6000, then Flagstaff AZ approx 6900', previously worked like a champ at Yerington NV approx 4400'. when I have shore power I use electric space heater to save on propane, so altitude not an issue then. I just used the furnace last week in Cleburne TX less than 1000' and it worked perfect, like I knew it would.

unfortunately, probably won't camp at anything near or over 6000 until next summer. I remember the RV tech guy at ETI is Pat too. so I think I'll print out this hardcopy and staple it to my calendar for reminder next summer. cheers

meassick · 11-21-2023, 09:55 AM

Of course, the furnace should never have been designed with a sail switch at all. Modern heating equipment uses differential pressure switches that are not suspeptible to dirt, vibration etc. I, and others, have installed adjustable pressure switches such as the Dwyer ADPS-08-1-N. You can search the forum for a write-up on installation.

rubicon327 · 11-21-2023, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meassick

Of course, the furnace should never have been designed with a sail switch at all. Modern heating equipment uses differential pressure switches that are not suspeptible to dirt, vibration etc. I, and others, have installed adjustable pressure switches such as the Dwyer ADPS-08-1-N. You can search the forum for a write-up on installation.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tch-24114.html

Bobbie54 · 11-21-2023, 01:23 PM

Where is the air coming in to the furnace before any holes are drilled? Front grill? Somewhere else?

rubicon327 · 11-21-2023, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

Where is the air coming in to the furnace before any holes are drilled? Front grill? Somewhere else?

The return air is pulled through the balance of the front grille and any other cracks and crevices. I have suggested in other threads that I don't believe the front grille alone has enough free area if the furnace is installed tightly into the cabinetry.

Ooshkaboo · 11-22-2023, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The return air is pulled through the balance of the front grille and any other cracks and crevices. I have suggested in other threads that I don't believe the front grille alone has enough free area if the furnace is installed tightly into the cabinetry.

You could be correct on that air flow, but I wouldn’t want any unfiltered air coming into my furnace at home. I’m not sure why this is a practice used on RVs.

I already have a huge gap between my furnace and my shower wall, I filled it with a piece of air filter material. I did this mainly because it was what I had on hand and I could see leftover debris from the build. I did the hot air exhaust pipe and filter modification on the road so it wasn’t the neatest job, but I had heat. Also I didn’t want to permanently seal it in case I would ever need to do work in that area.
It could be that gap is helping with my intake flow…

If it were to become necessary, I would staple a piece of filter over the newly drilled holes.

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