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09-25-2021, 11:36 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Davis, California
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 7
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Removing Captured Blind Rivets
The door latch on my E19 broke, so I’m in the process of replacing it. I’ve the drilled the heads off and got the old bracket off of the trailer, but how is everyone removing the backside of the rivet to make clearance for installing the new rivets? The backside is captured by the foam backed vinyl on the interior of the trailer (see photos).
Right now the best option seems cutting small access slits in the vinyl to remove the rivet and then gluing the seam after installing the new rivets, but I don’t love this idea. Is there a better way? Thanks in advance for the help!
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09-25-2021, 11:53 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cconzelmann
The door latch on my E19 broke, so I’m in the process of replacing it. I’ve the drilled the heads off and got the old bracket off of the trailer, but how is everyone removing the backside of the rivet to make clearance for installing the new rivets? The backside is captured by the foam backed vinyl on the interior of the trailer (see photos).
Right now the best option seems cutting small access slits in the vinyl to remove the rivet and then gluing the seam after installing the new rivets, but I don’t love this idea. Is there a better way? Thanks in advance for the help!
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I replaced the door latch recently on my trailer as well and after drilling the rivet heads, the back part of the rivets were stuck behind the rivet holes too.
I took a small screwdriver and pushed the leftover rivet parts out of the way of the new rivets going in and it worked out ok. I did use 3M 5200 as the sealant/adhesive for the new door latch - it probably didn't need the rivets after that stuff cured.
I did have to bend the end of the door latch arm to get it to latch properly.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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09-25-2021, 01:10 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Davis, California
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
I replaced the door latch recently on my trailer as well and after drilling the rivet heads, the back part of the rivets were stuck behind the rivet holes too.
I took a small screwdriver and pushed the leftover rivet parts out of the way of the new rivets going in and it worked out ok. I did use 3M 5200 as the sealant/adhesive for the new door latch - it probably didn't need the rivets after that stuff cured.
I did have to bend the end of the door latch arm to get it to latch properly.
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Thanks! I was able to get the backside of the rivets out of the way so the new rivets can go in, but you still see the old rivets through the vinyl on the inside.
I was going to use ProFlex to seal the new brackets to the body.
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09-25-2021, 02:03 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cconzelmann
Thanks! I was able to get the backside of the rivets out of the way so the new rivets can go in, but you still see the old rivets through the vinyl on the inside.
I was going to use ProFlex to seal the new brackets to the body.
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It might take more effort than it's worth but you could remove the plywood below where the rivet heads are and go up behind the bottom of the vinyl to get the rivet heads out. The vinyl has a cut edge a little below the plywood and is lightly glued to the fiberglass. It will come up using something like a hacksaw blade to go between the fiberglass and the foam underneath the vinyl. Some spray adhesive will reattach the vinyl after you're finished.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-77-Mult...2596530&sr=8-9
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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09-25-2021, 02:09 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: St Augustine, Florida
Trailer: 5.0 TA Delivered 4/7/22
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
I replaced the door latch recently on my trailer as well and after drilling the rivet heads, the back part of the rivets were stuck behind the rivet holes too.
I took a small screwdriver and pushed the leftover rivet parts out of the way of the new rivets going in and it worked out ok. I did use 3M 5200 as the sealant/adhesive for the new door latch - it probably didn't need the rivets after that stuff cured.
I did have to bend the end of the door latch arm to get it to latch properly.
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thats a perfect use of 5200... Its tenacious but gets all over me and everything near the spot I'm supposed to get it on...
__________________
2022 5.0TA . F150 4 wheel drive, EB 3.5 Andersen ultimate hitch. Trailer delivered 4/22. Jack
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09-25-2021, 03:10 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
Posts: 2,347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofmerc
thats a perfect use of 5200... Its tenacious but gets all over me and everything near the spot I'm supposed to get it on...
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My solution: applicators made from plastic coffee stirrers from the fast-food place, or plastic steak "rare/medium/well" label spears from your fav. restaurant. I've also used cut-down popsicle sticks.
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09-25-2021, 03:34 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: St Augustine, Florida
Trailer: 5.0 TA Delivered 4/7/22
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfandrews
My solution: applicators made from plastic coffee stirrers from the fast-food place, or plastic steak "rare/medium/well" label spears from your fav. restaurant. I've also used cut-down popsicle sticks.
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I like it! Good idea...still think 5200/4200 are the devils work,lol
__________________
2022 5.0TA . F150 4 wheel drive, EB 3.5 Andersen ultimate hitch. Trailer delivered 4/22. Jack
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09-25-2021, 06:26 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Davis, California
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 7
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Thanks everyone for the help! I was able to remove the dinette bench and get my hand behind the vinyl to remove the old rivets. The vinyl laid fairly flat when I buttoned everything back up. It’s not perfect, but I’m happy enough. I’m glad I didn’t need to cut the vinyl.
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09-25-2021, 06:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cconzelmann
Thanks everyone for the help! I was able to remove the dinette bench and get my hand behind the vinyl to remove the old rivets. The vinyl laid fairly flat when I buttoned everything back up. It’s not perfect, but I’m happy enough. I’m glad I didn’t need to cut the vinyl.
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You're more than welcome.
Don't be a stranger and if you need anything else, there are a lot of helpful people here.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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09-25-2021, 06:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: St Augustine, Florida
Trailer: 5.0 TA Delivered 4/7/22
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cconzelmann
Thanks everyone for the help! I was able to remove the dinette bench and get my hand behind the vinyl to remove the old rivets. The vinyl laid fairly flat when I buttoned everything back up. It’s not perfect, but I’m happy enough. I’m glad I didn’t need to cut the vinyl.
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very good work!
__________________
2022 5.0TA . F150 4 wheel drive, EB 3.5 Andersen ultimate hitch. Trailer delivered 4/22. Jack
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