Replacing a Dometic RMD 8555 Refrigerator

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Several years ago my RMD 8555 failed. I used a mobile rv tech and with Dometic on the phone they determined the main board failed. We ordered the board and within a week we had a replacement. Unfortunately the replacement board did not solve the problem and we now ordered an eye brow board. I did not receive that part until returning home, it was an easy install and fixed the problem. The tech said it was probably a case of both boards failing. This is something I question but have not proved.

I now have in my possession a main board that may or may not work. I would be willing to ship it to you on your dime and if it works out we can determine a price. Send me a private message if interested.

FYI the original issue was the refrigerator would not work on gas, it did work on shore power. The total repair ran a bit over $1,100.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for this offer. Had I been aware of it a month ago I think I would have been inclined to give it a shot. Since I am planning for a major trip in the fall beginning early-mid September I'm not sure I'd have enough time to check this one out, and still get a new fridge installed timely if the board proves not to be the solution. If I change my mind, however, I will send you a private message to discuss. Or maybe someone else with similar issues will see that you have it and want to make use of it.

Thanks again,

Paul

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I'd check to be sure there is a 120V version of the Dometic RMD 10.5XT. All I can find is 230V versions. If you never plan to use it on AC, or can find a replacement electric element, it might work...

Hi Jon,

Thanks for the heads-up on this issue. I do intend to use it on AC so this is an important point. I am pretty sure the model offered for sale in the United States is a 110V version, though the information on the Dometic US website is confusing.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...-10.5xt-205131

The main display photo and information cite 230V, as does the installation manual (available to download at that page). However, the operating manual, also available as a download there, cites 110V.

As I stated above, there are numerous sources in Europe and the UK offering this fridge (and which seem to have it readily in stock). They, of course, are 230V versions. It wouldn't make a lot of sense for Dometic to market and offer for sale a version of this fridge in the US that is not compatible with standard US power supply. However, a lot of things Dometic does don't make a lot of sense. So I will verify with my contacts at Dometic customer service and at Dyer Online that it is indeed a 110V version.

I will post back here when I receive a reply.

Thanks again,

Paul

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Did you order this? What price was quoted?

Hi Ross,

Yes, I did order this refrigerator from dyersonline.com on Tuesday. (Though they requested, and I ordered by phone since this is not a stock item, but rather has to be special ordered.) Their quote was $1,840, free shipping, and no sales tax. Expected to ship late July or early August. Given the concern regarding the power supply voltage raised by Jon, it is fortunate that they have indicated that the order can be cancelled up until it actually ships.

As stated in response to Jon's post, I will verify the power supply and post back here what I find out.

Paul

[Rossue]

Paul- hope you can get it in 110V. While am not a big Dometic fan the reality is Norcold probably isn't any better from what reviews I've seen. The Dometic to me has a much better interior as well.

Price doesn't seem too bad either considering that is the total delivered. Will be looking for your updates for installation if you in fact get to that point.

[huskersteffy]

Just for what its worth. If you go here:

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...-10.5xt-205131

Click on Specifications --> Electrical it would appear they make a 120V version.

Still, It would be good to verify before ordering for sure.

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by Vermilye
I'd check to be sure there is a 120V version of the Dometic RMD 10.5XT. All I can find is 230V versions. If you never plan to use it on AC, or can find a replacement electric element, it might work...

Hi All,

I received confirmation from both my contact at dyersonline.com and Dometic customer service that the version for sale in the US is indeed 120 volts. As I previously mentioned, I ordered the RMD 10.5XT nearly two weeks ago, and still hoping to get it by early August.

Plan to remove the old one this week, and begin work on the cavity per the improvements and suggestions by others who have done so. Again, will keep you apprised of my progress.

Thanks,

Paul

[a602pmcc]

All,

I got notification yesterday that the new RMD 10.5XT refrigerator is to be delivered on Tuesday, July 27. So, quicker than expected. Need to speed up my modifications to the cutout.

Hoping that it arrives in good condition. And fits! Both through the door and into the cutout.

Paul

[Rossue]

Hey Paul- would you document the work needed to make the new fridge fit please? Just a matter of time that others will need to do the same I would expect.

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Hey Paul- would you document the work needed to make the new fridge fit please? Just a matter of time that others will need to do the same I would expect.

Hi Ross,

I will. Based on the published dimensions it looks as if very little will actually be necessary. Height and width appear to be virtually identical. Depth looks pretty close, but not quite clear how the depth of the doors affect the overall depth measurement. Will know more when the new one gets here.

Paul

[RangerMan]

Originally Posted by a602pmcc

All,

I got notification yesterday that the new RMD 10.5XT refrigerator is to be delivered on Tuesday, July 27. So, quicker than expected. Need to speed up my modifications to the cutout.

Hoping that it arrives in good condition. And fits! Both through the door and into the cutout.

Paul

Should probably do a 'bench' test before installing to ensure all is working properly. I would hate to install a new one only to discover it would not work.

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by a602pmcc

Hi Ross,

I will. Based on the published dimensions it looks as if very little will actually be necessary. Height and width appear to be virtually identical. Depth looks pretty close, but not quite clear how the depth of the doors affect the overall depth measurement. Will know more when the new one gets here.

Paul

To further clarify -- I don't think much modification will be necessary to achieve a fit similar to that for the existing RMD 8555. However, I do plan to do some of the modifications you, Chris R, and others have already undertaken to improve performance. Doing so on the theory that since I have to take the old one out anyway, might as well do some of those things while I have access.

I've communicated with Chris R, and he has helpfully provided additional details of how he modified the baffle in the rear, and added insulation. Won't know until the new one gets here whether I will undertake as extensive a modification of the rear baffle as Chris did.

Paul

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by a602pmcc

Hi Ross,

I will. Based on the published dimensions it looks as if very little will actually be necessary. Height and width appear to be virtually identical. Depth looks pretty close, but not quite clear how the depth of the doors affect the overall depth measurement. Will know more when the new one gets here.

Paul

Originally Posted by RangerMan

Should probably do a 'bench' test before installing to ensure all is working properly. I would hate to install a new one only to discover it would not work.

Good suggestion.

Thanks,

Paul

[dan55]

Hi Paul, have you received your new refrigerator? I know there isn’t much room to work in a escape but let me know if you need a hand.
Dan

[a602pmcc]

Originally Posted by dan55

Hi Paul, have you received your new refrigerator? I know there isn’t much room to work in a escape but let me know if you need a hand.
Dan

Hi Dan (and All),

Yes, I got the new refrigerator (Dometic RMD 10.5XT) on Tuesday the 27th. All looks good. Virtually identical size of the previous. Already have the old one out, and am working on improvements to the cutout space. Don't think I will have to alter anything due to size of the fridge, but do plan to add insulation and alter the rear baffle as Chris R did to improve uniformity of clearance.

I will post photos of that and of the new fridge. I like the configuration of the doors on the new one better than the old, and that the shelves are stainless steel. Otherwise very similar.

Dan, will call you tomorrow about possible help with installation. Thanks for the offer.

Paul

[LeonW]

I hope you will post some photos of the new fridge and what you did to the cavity. I am not at the point of replacing the fridge yet, but one of these days...

[a602pmcc]

Hi All,

As promised, here’s an update on my new RMD 10.5XT install.

Had some delays in getting the new refrigerator installed, but it is in now, and seems to be working properly. Getting the old fridge physically out of the cabinet took some pushing and tugging, but made easier by having my son available to help. Likewise getting through the door was tight but not too bad, and did not require removing the screen door or anything else to accomplish.

Same with getting the new one back in. Its dimensions and weight are nearly identical to the old one, so no surprise there.

The height and width of the two refrigerators are identical, 49” and 20.6” respectively, so no modification of the cabinetry is necessary in those two dimensions. In the existing ETI installation there was no ceiling to the cutout, leaving that space open to the roof of the trailer, though there is headliner, and some wiring in that space. I added a ceiling, using plywood, rigid foam, and flexible foam core insulation, bringing it down to about ½” above the top of the fridge similar to the clearance on the sides.

As others, including Rossue and Chris R, have done I added insulation to the sides and rear of the cutout cavity. The existing installation had thin fiberglass batt insulation on the sides and none on the ceiling or rear.

The structural modification that I undertook was to make the rear baffle conform more closely to the Dometic specification – which calls for a clearance between 0.6” and 1” between the rear of the fridge and the back wall. The existing baffle installed by ETI would have been too close at the bottom, and too far away at the top. Making that modification was difficult, requiring pulling the existing thin plywood sheet (lauan?) off its structural supports, trimming the support at the bottom, and changing the taper of the vertical supports up the back wall. Removed ½” to ¾” at the bottom. The existing plywood was destroyed in removal, so required a new panel cut to size. If I read Chris R’s description correctly, he removed the existing support structure in the rear and rebuilt. I found it easier to cut down the existing supports – but it was a PIA, made even more so by the tight working space.

The Dometic installation instructions emphasize that the rear compartment is to be “draft proof” to ensure that combustion gasses do not enter the living quarters. The existing compartment corners were sealed with expanding foam. I removed that and used 3M Red Fire Barrier Sealant. I used Pro Select R-Matte Plus-3 ¾” rigid foam board insulation on the sides and roof. I also cut a piece to fit behind the rear plywood baffle. That was adhered with Loctite construction adhesive and Gorilla Spray Glue. Sides, ceiling, and rear wall got an additional layer of Supershield Reflective Foam Core Insulation, again adhered with Loctite, Gorilla Spray glue, and/or staples. Corners and edges were taped.

Two points of interest on the hookups of the RMD 10.5 XT: 1) This fridge was obviously designed for use it Europe/UK, and comes with a “CI Bus Interface” connector – a 6-pin spade pigtail plug – instead of a typical 12v connector block. This apparently allows you to just plug it in and monitor/control the fridge through your vehicle’s infotainment system. Of course, the CI standard is European, and the trailer doesn’t have such a system anyway. I had the same RV tech that diagnosed the original failure do the electrical hookup. He had to spend half an hour on the phone with Dometic technical service and get additional documentation from them to determine which pins were the actual 12v + and – connections. 2) The gas connection, while in virtually the same place as on the previous fridge is oriented differently, and required a flexible hose to connect.

New refrigerator has now been in place for over a week, and has run properly on both gas and 120 ac electric. Seems to be handling the North Florida heat and humidity reasonably well so far. I’ve measured temps as low as 3 degrees F in the freezer and just under 36 degrees F in the fridge.

My planned trip that was to begin in a few weeks has been delayed due to family issues but still hope it occurs before too long. Will post back more info as more data are available.

Here are a couple of photos of the new fridge in place. Will post pictures of the work I did on the cutout soon.

[Vin and Janice]

Hi, this is Vin;
We spent over an houir w/ dometic, but they wont let a tech talk to a consumer. Can you give me the tech's name / number who did your elecrtical hook up? I need to know how / where to land my 12v +/- wires, and dometic is useless.
thanks

[a602pmcc]

Hi Vin,

I sent you a PM.

Paul

[a602pmcc]

As mentioned in my post above, I did work similar to others to better insulate the refrigerator cabinet enclosure cutout, and to reconfigure the rear baffle to better comply with Dometic specifications. I described that work above. Here are some pictures.

Following is a picture of the original rear baffle, then a similar shot with the plywood removed. Oops, pics are reversed.

[a602pmcc]

Here's a picture of the rear wall after installing the new plywood baffle and caulking with the fire barrier caulk, followed by one of the rear wall with full insulation in place, stapled and taped. Then a view up the back wall to the roof vent. This area is much smoother than before, which I hope will facilitate improved airflow.