Definitely would work. I used those when I re-plumbed my 1902 house and had to solder a LOT of copper close to 100+ year old dry joists. Withstands a direct propane torch flame just fine.
Well, I have had the opportunity to check for scorch marks and yes, there is a definite area just at the T-shaped exhaust tube. I have had the RML 8550 replaced by the RMD 8555 at a local Dometic authorized repair center. The new refrigerator appears to touching the plywood baffle at the coils, but the scorch mark is lower, at the exhaust.
I had measured temperatures on the outside skin and was finding 105, certainly not as hot as others. However, my temperatures were taken when the refrigerator had been running several weeks.
This topic seems to be evolving, new discoveries and new solutions. I may wait a bit to see what evolves. I do not have the skill or inclination to replace the baffle, I like the idea of the Home Depot heat shield and will probably do that through the upper vent. The thought of removing the refrigerator causes goose bumps.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
Took the vent cover off to look and mine looks different from a previous post; it has a metal screen and you cannot look down into the flue as a piece of wood comes up and angles over. My vent hood frame seems warped though.
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
Well, I have had the opportunity to check for scorch marks and yes, there is a definite area just at the T-shaped exhaust tube. I have had the RML 8550 replaced by the RMD 8555 at a local Dometic authorized repair center. The new refrigerator appears to touching the plywood baffle at the coils, but the scorch mark is lower, at the exhaust.
I had measured temperatures on the outside skin and was finding 105, certainly not as hot as others. However, my temperatures were taken when the refrigerator had been running several weeks.
This topic seems to be evolving, new discoveries and new solutions. I may wait a bit to see what evolves. I do not have the skill or inclination to replace the baffle, I like the idea of the Home Depot heat shield and will probably do that through the upper vent. The thought of removing the refrigerator causes goose bumps.
Same here. I like the double layer cookie sheet better and will go that way unless something else comes up first.
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Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
Took the vent cover off to look and mine looks different from a previous post; it has a metal screen and you cannot look down into the flue as a piece of wood comes up and angles over. My vent hood frame seems warped though.
That sure looks like mine. About half the baffle opening is covered by the plywood frame but it is still possible to look into the baffle and see the top coils of the refrigerator.
I opened the lower vent for more light below and then covered my head and arms with a towel. With a darkened environment a flashlight now worked better to see into the opening. Also try a trouble light inside the lower vent.
I would say the highest point of the plastic vent, with the cover off, showed some warping. Nothing that would affect the operation.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
That sure looks like mine. About half the baffle opening is covered by the plywood frame but it is still possible to look into the baffle and see the top coils of the refrigerator.
I opened the lower vent for more light below and then covered my head and arms with a towel. With a darkened environment a flashlight now worked better to see into the opening. Also try a trouble light inside the lower vent.
I would say the highest point of the plastic vent, with the cover off, showed some warping. Nothing that would affect the operation.
Am I looking down on the right side? It would appear so from my picture in #9; the photo is sideways, however you can see the arrow pointing to represent up.
The second and third photos on post #22 is what I see when looking down the vent. Not sure what that photo in #9 shows. That looks to me something temporary with the tape, you say that sheet of plywood blocks the vent? So there would be a very restricted flow of air up the baffle?
Is that perhaps a photo from inside the trailer with the refrigerator removed? Maybe someone who has removed one can comment.
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Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
The second and third photos on post #22 is what I see when looking down the vent. Not sure what that photo in #9 shows. That looks to me something temporary with the tape, you say that sheet of plywood blocks the vent? So there would be a very restricted flow of air up the baffle?
Is that perhaps a photo from inside the trailer with the refrigerator removed? Maybe someone who has removed one can comment.
#9 photo is from Reace- perhaps he used some tape to hold it up for the shot. The sheet of plywood- actually looks like Luan is on the curbside of the vent. Looking down on the street side with coils I can now see the back wall going down to the floor which is what you see when you take the outside vent cover off. That area is where you see the scorch mark on Reace's photo and fortunately don't see any now.
Don't know if this helps...This is a picture of the original back wall looking up towards the vent. The sheet of plywood butts up against the shell, no other obstructions.
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Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
Putting the vent lid on I notice that there are silicone plugs that cover the recessed screws. One was missing and another looks funky. Do you think Reace used Proflex for these? Don't see them as parts one can order.
I just checked our 19, which is one that got the replacement fridge two-door fridge. Looking through the bottom vent with a flashlight and mirror, I can see to the top of the exhaust flue and beyond, including the exhaust exit fitting which is either an ell or a tee. I can see the inside surface of the outer wall, all the way to the top and do not see any scorching. I can also see the underside of the structure that forms the back side of the fridge cavity, again no charring visible. I'm feeling somewhat relieved. Or.....am I looking in the wrong place?
When I did my mods I couldn't understand why ETI and most other North American manufacturers weren't installing the Dometic flue vent that directly exhausts hot gases to the exterior. European and Australian manufacturers do.
It made no sense to me that the hot gases are just dumped out in an area that you are trying to dissipate heat in.
At any rate I'm glad that I installed a metal baffle and that I have a channel that acts as a dedicated flue. In Baja and on this recent trip, with 105* temperatures in the mid-west, we never set the fridge higher than 3 bars and had frozen food the whole time.
I guess my view is that the hot gases shouldn't be dumped out in this area in the first place.
Ron I tried to get my hands on that exhaust kit but wasn't able to. I think the only way is to contact a shop overseas and see if they will ship to Canada.
When I did my mods I couldn't understand why ETI and most other North American manufacturers weren't installing the Dometic flue vent that directly exhausts hot gases to the exterior. European and Australian manufacturers do.
It made no sense to me that the hot gases are just dumped out in an area that you are trying to dissipate heat in.
At any rate I'm glad that I installed a metal baffle and that I have a channel that acts as a dedicated flue. In Baja and on this recent trip, with 105* temperatures in the mid-west, we never set the fridge higher than 3 bars and had frozen food the whole time.
I guess my view is that the hot gases shouldn't be dumped out in this area in the first place.
Ron
So Ron, how much of this have you installed? I assume you're referring to the baffle assembly leaning against the garage door. Can you point me to a thread about this? The kit below....is that the European exhaust kit? Did you also install that, or are you showing it for reference?
So Ron, how much of this have you installed? I assume you're referring to the baffle assembly leaning against the garage door. Can you point me to a thread about this? The kit below....is that the European exhaust kit? Did you also install that, or are you showing it for reference?
The second picture is the kit Ron is referring to . It was in my manual . I called Dometic and they acted like , there was no such items even though I gave them part numbers as well . Pat
So Ron, how much of this have you installed? I assume you're referring to the baffle assembly leaning against the garage door. Can you point me to a thread about this? The kit below....is that the European exhaust kit? Did you also install that, or are you showing it for reference?
Yup, there was a thread on it back in 2015. Briefly, wanted to drop some wires down the space behind fridge. Took top vent off roof and found not charring but mould on the back baffle. Already I knew several people weren't happy with the fridge. I found the dealer in Perth, Australia but he was slow in replying and we wanted to leave for Alaska sooner than later.
I took the opportunity to first heavily insulate the cavity between the baffle and the exterior shell with rigid insulation. Then I fabricated the assembly shown. It created a dedicated path for the hot flue gases to go up and out and the other parts streamline the flow of cooling air.
This year was a real test for it and I'm pretty certain that some of the baffle design is at least partly responsible for it working well.
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