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06-05-2018, 10:20 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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Wow, there's my answer to why the display never displayed amperage. I always just left that donut lie unattended in there, never understood, managed somehow to miss that requirement. So that's what that thing is for! Will do, thanks so much, Rubi. Otherwise, all looking like no harm done to the ac. It's running great. I never messed with the jumper - just left it at whatever the factory setting is.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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06-05-2018, 10:48 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
I never messed with the jumper - just left it at whatever the factory setting is.
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You might want to pull that jumper to set the delay to 136 seconds. Escape pulls it on all trailers that they set up with the Progressive EMS option.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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06-05-2018, 11:07 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
Wow, there's my answer to why the display never displayed amperage. I always just left that donut lie unattended in there, never understood, managed somehow to miss that requirement. So that's what that thing is for! Will do, thanks so much, Rubi. Otherwise, all looking like no harm done to the ac. It's running great. I never messed with the jumper - just left it at whatever the factory setting is.
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Great. Glad to help. Love that we can analyze and troubleshoot stuff via pictures and descriptions across the continent. Can't imagine what is coming down the line...we'll be swallowing little sensors and the dr will know what is wrong. Won't even need to go to the office. It's already starting.
Regarding the jumper you only need to pull it if your A/C doesn't have the time delay built in. The modern Dometic's do to the best of my knowledge. Check your manual. My mini-split has a built in delay and I installed my own EMS so the jumper remains in for only a 15s delay. Why wait 2 minutes 16 secs for power everytime you plug in if you don't have to?
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06-05-2018, 11:34 AM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
The modern Dometic's do to the best of my knowledge.
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Made me curious. I went out to the trailer, turned on the A/C, disconnected and reconnected power, bypassed the EMS, power came back on, fan came back on, and ten seconds later - the A/C compressor was running.
Dometic manual suggests waiting 3-5 minutes (depending on what manual you look at) before restarting the unit to allow the head pressure to dissipate but I can't find anywhere where it says the delay is built in.
I would pull the jumper!
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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06-05-2018, 11:55 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
Made me curious. I went out to the trailer, turned on the A/C, disconnected and reconnected power, bypassed the EMS, power came back on, fan came back on, and ten seconds later - the A/C compressor was running.
Dometic manual suggests waiting 3-5 minutes (depending on what manual you look at) before restarting the unit to allow the head pressure to dissipate but I can't find anywhere where it says the delay is built in.
I would pull the jumper!
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I stand corrected. I must have seen the built in delay reference in an older Dometic manual. A current manual that crosses multiple models says this:
"NOTICE: Wait at least 2 minutes before restarting the compressor when it has been manually cycled off with either the selector switch or the temperature set lever. Otherwise, compressor will quick-cycle and could result in compressor or supply circuit overload."
I agree that the EMS jumper should be pulled to be safe unless you know definitively (like me) that your A/C has a built-in delay.
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06-08-2018, 10:59 AM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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I self-installed my Dometic 11,000 BTU AC, model number 640312, May 2015. Installation specifications on circuit protection: “Time delay fuse or circuit breaker required.”
On page 9, “IMPORTANT: After shutting the unit down manually by either the selector switch or the thermostat, always wait 2-3 minutes before turning on the unit.” My trailer was factory wired and waiting for an AC installation so all I had to do was hoist the thing onto the roof and add and connect this breaker. Have no idea if it contains a time delay.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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06-08-2018, 12:31 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Jeromesville, Ohio
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
I self-installed my Dometic 11,000 BTU AC, model number 640312, May 2015. Installation specifications on circuit protection: “Time delay fuse or circuit breaker required.”
On page 9, “IMPORTANT: After shutting the unit down manually by either the selector switch or the thermostat, always wait 2-3 minutes before turning on the unit.” My trailer was factory wired and waiting for an AC installation so all I had to do was hoist the thing onto the roof and add and connect this breaker. Have no idea if it contains a time delay.
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The standard molded case circuit breaker you used is time delay. The higher the current, the faster it will trip. At a certain current it will trip as fast as it can physically operate. The time delay is so that the breaker will allow the surge current of the motor starting without tripping the breaker.
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
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06-08-2018, 02:43 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiman
The standard molded case circuit breaker you used is time delay. The higher the current, the faster it will trip. At a certain current it will trip as fast as it can physically operate. The time delay is so that the breaker will allow the surge current of the motor starting without tripping the breaker.
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Yes, but Myron this is not to be confused with the air conditioner time delay we are referring to which would be integrated into the circuitry of the air conditioner itself to protect the compressor. Based on Myron's note in his last post it appears that Dometic does not include the compressor time delay on their modern units. The time delay breaker is not related to the issue at hand.
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06-08-2018, 06:05 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Carmel, New York
Trailer: 2021 Escape 5.0
Posts: 256
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Yep, the onboard EMS in my 17 works great.
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06-08-2018, 11:05 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Trailer: 2017 5.0 TA
Posts: 146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labearit
I am curious if there is a recommended device that could be plugged into the power pole to test the integrity of the power supply before plugging the RV electrical cord into the service.
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Sorry, I'm a little late to this discussion. I want to reply to the OP's original question.
I like to test the power before I even pull in (if possible) to a campsite. That way, if there are problems, I can hopefully move to another site with the least amount of work.
I keep the following items in my tow vehicle for quick access to test the campground power: My procedure is: - Plug in the adapter to the 30a outlet
- Plug in the outlet tester into the adapter
- Check for the correct lights on the outlet tester
- Remove the outlet tester
- Plug in the AC voltmeter into the adapter
- Check for a reasonable voltage (I'll let someone else define "reasonable")
If the 30a outlet fails with the outlet tester, I move to the 50a outlet with the adapter plugged into a 50a to 30a adapter ( http://a.co/7P6Y6nP). If the 50a outlet fails with the outlet tester, I move to the 15a outlet (if I'm willing to use it). I've seen several 30a outlets with open grounds that I could get around by using the 50a outlet.
By the way, I'm not recommending the above Amazon products. They are just examples of the products that I use.
__________________
Thomas G.
2017 5.0 TA
2017 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCrew, 6.5' bed, 4x2, 6-speed, 1:3.55 rear axle; B&W Turnover Ball; Andersen Ultimate Aluminum Gooseneck; Fold-a-cover w/caddy
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06-09-2018, 01:11 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasG
[*]Check for a reasonable voltage (I'll let someone else define "reasonable")
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Considering appliances are typically designed for nominal 115-120V +/- 10% I would start there. The Progressive Industries EMS shuts down at a low of 104V and high of 132V. Since their business is to protect RV appliances that is a suitable range for me if I was checking power myself. Caveat: if you don’t have an EMS that will shutdown then I would provide a buffer on the low end in case voltage sags especially if it is summer and a bunch of big RV’s with A/C might be run in the campground. Judgement call.
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06-09-2018, 02:29 AM
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#52
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,156
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if your Escape doesn't have the built in EMS, you can get one of these. they are kinda big and bulky, but they are essentally the same thing in an external format...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T36Q7R2
you plug this into the 30A outlet in the RV pedestal, it does a bunch of tests, then you plug your RV power cord into the socket at the bottom... it monitors displays any faults on its screen, along with voltage, current usage, etc. this is way beyond just a surge protector as commonly found in plugstrips etc for computer use.
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06-09-2018, 08:53 AM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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It's all becoming clear to me. Who knew? When my ac failed I never considered the reason might be for low voltage at the campground due to excessive power draw from all them big busses (sic) surrounding me there. So, my Progressive surge protector and my breaker was merely doing the protection job it is there for. It is so easy for the un-informed who take the conveniences of this modern world for granted to look in the wrong tunnels for answers. Thanks much...you tech guys know your beans!
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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06-10-2018, 09:21 PM
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#54
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Prairieville, Louisiana
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA (August, 2017)
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasG
Sorry, I'm a little late to this discussion. I want to reply to the OP's original question.
I like to test the power before I even pull in (if possible) to a campsite. That way, if there are problems, I can hopefully move to another site with the least amount of work.
I keep the following items in my tow vehicle for quick access to test the campground power:
My procedure is:
- Plug in the adapter to the 30a outlet
- Plug in the outlet tester into the adapter
- Check for the correct lights on the outlet tester
- Remove the outlet tester
- Plug in the AC voltmeter into the adapter
- Check for a reasonable voltage (I'll let someone else define "reasonable")
If the 30a outlet fails with the outlet tester, I move to the 50a outlet with the adapter plugged into a 50a to 30a adapter ( http://a.co/7P6Y6nP). If the 50a outlet fails with the outlet tester, I move to the 15a outlet (if I'm willing to use it). I've seen several 30a outlets with open grounds that I could get around by using the 50a outlet.
By the way, I'm not recommending the above Amazon products. They are just examples of the products that I use.
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Thanks. This is precisely what I was seeking.
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06-10-2018, 09:23 PM
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#55
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Prairieville, Louisiana
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA (August, 2017)
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
As stated above, your onboard EMS will do everything you need. The error codes are cryptic though, and you need to look in the manual to decipher them. But then again, do you really? If EMS says it’s bad, it’s bad, and does it really matter which flavor of bad?
The other thing about the EMS is the 2 minute time delay. You just have to be patient for that.
On the other hand, if you really want something quick and easy to see if an outlet is wired right, you could get one of these. It’s small, portable and will work anywhere, including in your house. To make it work with a 30A RV plug requires an adapter, which can be a handy thing to have on occasion anyway.
Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet/Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication/Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU..._DkSdBb8H3W2P8
Epicord RV Power Cord Electric Plug Adapter Triangle (30M15F) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQKSNTQ..._VoSdBbEGFG2VS
Edit: Note that this will only tell you if things are wired right, but not if the voltage is off, or if it’s clean. But your EMS will do all that. It’s much more than a simple surge suppressor.
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Thanks. This is precisely what I was seeking.
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06-10-2018, 11:49 PM
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#56
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,156
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that surge protector I posted above does a full test if you plug it into an outlet without the trailer, shows the voltage, verifies the ground, that the neutral and live aren't swapped, etc. in fact, the instructions say to plug it in, let it run the tests, THEN plug your trailer in...
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