Tow wiring plug dragged and needs replacement

[SouthernCamper]

So, our tow wiring plug bounced out (or was never plugged in) and all prongs are completely eroded away. Miraculously some brake lights still work, our trailer brakes and right turn lights do not.

What kind of a replacement is this? Can we replace it on our own or do we need to bring it in to an RV repair place?

[outwiththedogs]

Ugh sorry! We did this on our first trailer, a 17’. Fortunately we only wore down the outside so everything still worked. We went to our local RV place when we got home and they replaced it pretty quickly by cutting off the plug as short as possible and adding a new one. Embarrassing but we have never had a loose or forgotten one since. My bet is that it is a very reasonable DIY chore.
Catherine

[Centex]

Perhaps of interest, this typical installation video

There are many brands and sources for plugs, Google is your friend, personally I like Pollak product quality: Pollak Black Plastic, 7-Pole, RV-Style Trailer Connector - Trailer End

As far as DIY vs having a shop do it .... it all depends on your skillsets, tools, and comfort level.

Hope that helps, have Fun!

[Vermilye]

I've replaced just the connector on my 17, but was never happy with the waterproofing & had corrosion problems with the internal connections.

When I found the Escape provided connector would work loose in my F 150 7 pin receptacle, I replaced the connector & cord with one of these: Hopkins 7-Way RV Style Connector w/ Molded Cable and LED Test Light. More expensive than just replacing the connector, but a great fit in the F150 receptacle.

I also added a Plug Guard to the front storage box to store the connector when disconnected from the tow.

[GregColdewey]

This happened to our daughter and son-in law on the TAB. He was able to find the plug at an RV store and replaced it in the parking lot of the store.

[ATHiker]

I had my plug replaced at Truck & Trailers, USA. I would check a similar facility and avoid a RV repair facility.

[SouthernCamper]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I've replaced just the connector on my 17, but was never happy with the waterproofing & had corrosion problems with the internal connections.

When I found the Escape provided connector would work loose in my F 150 7 pin receptacle, I replaced the connector & cord with one of these: Hopkins 7-Way RV Style Connector w/ Molded Cable and LED Test Light. More expensive than just replacing the connector, but a great fit in the F150 receptacle.

I also added a Plug Guard to the front storage box to store the connector when disconnected from the tow.

Hi and thanks for the info! My husband has gotten just the plug for now, but keeps shocking himself when he tries to replace it. He thinks he shut off the battery but apparently not. Any tips?

[Vermilye]

I doubt he would actually get a shock - only 12V available, but sparks are possible. I'd disconnect the battery (and, of course, unplug the 30 amp AC trailer cord from power).

[DanandDaphne]

Don't forget to cover your solar panel if you have one before disconnecting the battery.