Tripping GFCi over and over

[Wshowell]

Yes, it has the inverter. It also has the factory solar setup and two 6V batteries. I’ve tried the battery disconnect on and off to see if that has any effect. None. Still trips those GFCI outlets.

[Ron in BC]

I don't have an EMS or any experience with them but can it be bypassed?

Trouble shooting is always a step-by-step process, you're getting there.

Ron

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I don't have an EMS or any experience with them but can it be bypassed?

Trouble shooting is always a step-by-step process, you're getting there.

Ron

They can be bypassed with a switch on the display but that is just electronically. If a ground fault exists with the actual wiring it will still trip the GFI the trailer is plugged in to.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

Yes, it has the inverter. It also has the factory solar setup and two 6V batteries. I’ve tried the battery disconnect on and off to see if that has any effect. None. Still trips those GFCI outlets.

With the power off of course open up the power center and check all the hot connections on the breakers, neutral bus bar and ground bus bar. Check the wires too. Something as simple as a ground wire touching a hot or neutral with a nick in the wire coating will do it.

[Wshowell]

I’ve unplugged the fridge from the unit and plugged the fridge cord directly to the extension cord plugged in to the GFCI outlet to see if the fridge was the culprit. It’s been plugged in for 30 minutes and no issue. Can’t figure how to test water heater. If I pull the four wires (small wires) going in to it does that disconnect it? The wires look too small to carry that much load.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

I’ve unplugged the fridge from the unit and plugged the fridge cord directly to the extension cord plugged in to the GFCI outlet to see if the fridge was the culprit. It’s been plugged in for 30 minutes and no issue. Can’t figure how to test water heater. If I pull the four wires (small wires) going in to it does that disconnect it? The wires look too small to carry that much load.

*With power off*- For the water heater you can either pull both wires off the electric element at the bottom front of the heater outside and test OR turn off the water heater breaker in the power center and pull the neutral off the bus bar and plug in to test. This is to test with the trailer isolated from the appliance not testing the appliance itself.

Also sorry to hear about the passing of your father. I hope the blessing of many great memories helps to bring some comfort.

[JohnK]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

Cool. I’ll go down and try that out. The water heater is dual electrical/propane but the electrical switch is turned off at the heater. Thanks.

Unless you disconnect both wires from the water heater element or better yet install a new element, the shore GFCI knows its there and will still trip. Change your element and you'll fix the problem.
John

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

Yes, it has the inverter. It also has the factory solar setup and two 6V batteries. I’ve tried the battery disconnect on and off to see if that has any effect. None. Still trips those GFCI outlets.

Having these problems prompted me to purchase this surge protector.

Here’s the EMS, I bypassed it during my troubleshooting. .
I would at also rule out the campers gfi at this point and wire nut it’s wiring together.
Then plug into your gfi to your home with all breakers off, then one by one flip them on.

[CharlesinGA]

It sounds like a neutral is being shared somewhere, and that will trip the GFCI every time.

Also be aware that if the truck has a floating neutral (not tied to ground) a EMS like you pictured will not allow current to pass. This is a common issue with portable gas generators and you can buy or make a jumper plug that jumps the ground pin to the neutral pin of a regular plug and then plug it into a 120v outlet on the generator.

Charles

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

I’m trying to plug in to my house’s 120V 15 amp outlets. My house has several outside outlets all GFCI. Those pop each time after the 2 minutes the trailer takes to “inspect” the line before engaging the shore power. I plug in to 120V inside my house (not GFCI) and I have no issues.

Originally Posted by Chamberman

Thats a very good bit of info. The 2 min delay is the Progressive EMS system engaging. If the GFCI trips when the EMS energizes the relay then this says that the problem is after the EMS, on the trailer side.

Let's try a diagnostic sequence building on the above ....

1. Before plugging into the house GFCI, toggle All of the AC breakers in your WFCO power center to OFF
2. Plug into house GFCI

Does the GFCI trip after the ~2-minute EMS 'test cycle' delay?

If Yes, I think your problem is within the AC-side of the WFCO breaker panel itself, or the wiring (ground, neutral, hot) between the EMS and that panel in the WFCO - focus troubleshooting accordingly.

EDIT - I think it may be possible to trip the house GFCI even with all of the WFCO 'hot-side breakers OFF' IF there is a fault on any of the neutral / ground wires connected to the WFCO neutral / ground bus bars (so consider that when troubleshooting if you get a GFCI trip at this point).

If No, then I think it's a problem 'downstream' of the WFCO power center AC breaker panel. While the trailer is still connected to the not-tripped house GFCI

• Toggle Only the WFCO "Main" AC breaker ON; If that causes a GFCI trip then I think your problem is within the WFCO AC distribution section (OR, if there's anything else wired directly to your "Main" breaker (), then potentially that item or its wiring which could be removed from the Main breaker to eliminate that possibility or expose that problem).
• IF the GFCI does not trip with the Main AC breaker ON, then toggle each WFCO AC breaker ON (and then OFF) in turn to reveal the problematic circuit for focus of troubleshooting.

Just for your consideration, good luck

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Centex

Let's try a diagnostic sequence building on the above ....

1. Before plugging into the house GFCI, toggle All of the AC breakers in your WFCO power center to OFF
2. Plug into house GFCI

Does the GFCI trip after the ~2-minute EMS 'test cycle' delay?

If Yes, I think your problem is within the AC-side of the WFCO breaker panel itself, or the wiring (ground, neutral, hot) between the EMS and that panel in the WFCO - focus troubleshooting accordingly.

EDIT - upon consideration I think it may be possible to trip the house GFCI even with all of the WFCO 'hot-side breakers OFF' IF there is a fault on any of the neutral / ground wires connected to the WFCO neutral / ground bus bars (so consider that when troubleshooting if you get a GFCI trip at this point).

If No, then I think it's a problem 'downstream' of the WFCO power center AC breaker panel. While the trailer is still connected to the not-tripped house GFCI

• Toggle Only the WFCO "Main" AC breaker ON; If that causes a GFCI trip then I think your problem is within the WFCO AC distribution section (OR, if there's anything else wired directly to your "Main" breaker (), then potentially that item or its wiring which could be removed from the Main breaker to eliminate that possibility or expose that problem).
• IF the GFCI does not trip with the Main AC breaker ON, then toggle each WFCO AC breaker ON (and then OFF) in turn to reveal the problematic circuit for focus of troubleshooting.

Just for your consideration, good luck

Hi Alan. This would only work if it happens to be a hot-ground fault. If it is a neutral-ground fault the above will not work to help troubleshoot because the GFCI will trip regardless of whether breakers are on or off as they only isolate the hot side.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Hi Alan. This would only work if it happens to be a hot-ground fault. If it is a neutral-ground fault the above will not work to help troubleshoot because the GFCI will trip regardless of whether breakers are on or off as they only isolate the hot side.

Ah, gotchya, thanks.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Centex

Ah, gotchya, thanks.

Ground faults can be tricky!

[JohnK]

I have yet to see that the water heater element has been 100% electrically removed from the system. It’s been my experience that one can turn the switch off, tripnthe WH circuit breaker but still be discoverable by a shore power GFCI. Until both wires have been removed from the WH electric element it is still in the system and has not been eliminated at the source of GFCI tripping.
John

[Wshowell]

Firstly, the problems have all been resolved and in a way I never expected. Everyone gave me such good suggestions. When checking the water heater I discovered how gunked up the tank was and how the anode was beyond used up. Replaced that and tested the heating element, all checked out. I then look at the outlet for the fridge and it looked a little crusty with the center screw being rusted so I swapped that out for a hospital grade outlet I had new laying around. Wasn’t it. I then checked the GFCI on the exterior or the trailer and that failed to reset. I pulled that out and just wire nutted it off until the new one arrives. Wasn’t it. I gave up on the GFCI issue and turned my attention to the fact that the fan and HVAC were not turning on when powered and made a loud buzzing sound. I know the sound of a frozen motor and after sitting for 4 years I feared the motor was toast. I then read that someone said their motor was frozen by a bird’s nest. So first thing this morning I used my 8’ ladder and carefully removed the Dometic valance. Sure enough, a large birds nest with twigs and moss build all around the squirrel cage fan. I pulled all the nest material and then blew all the other junk out and the fan and AC turned on no problem. I was pretty pleased with that outcome but frustrated the GFCI issue was unresolved. Just for the heck of it I pulled the plug from the non-GFCI and tested it on the GFCI. To my absolute shock and delight the EMS let the power through. I ran the AC for 15 minutes and then feeling really confident I backed my truck up and plugged it in to the 30 amp outlet and turned on the Pro Power. 2 minutes later the EMS gave me the proper thump and I had full 30 amp power to the Escape. This weekend we will take it on a shake down trip just an hour away to San Simeon. The hope is that when the Tesla Supercharger network open up in 2024 that we will be able to take the truck and trailer combo cross the USA all on electricity and using the truck as the power source when we camp without hookups and charge the truck from the campground that do have AC power. Thank you everyone for weighing in. Not only did I learn a ton but I got to know the trailer much better and found a few issues that needed my attention and ultimately resolved a series of problems that could have cost big $ to diagnose.

[Rossue]

Congrats to you William; there are a few Escape owners in SLO County including ourselves. Camping at San Simeon should be great this time of year- we like Washburn up top.

[JohnK]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Congrats to you William; there are a few Escape owners in SLO County including ourselves. Camping at San Simeon should be great this time of year- we like Washburn up top.

And if you're lucky you might be able to snag a site at Kirk Creek.
John

[Wshowell]

That looks really nice. I only knew about Pfeiffer. This is just a quick shake down trip but that will be on my future plans. I also think Highway 1 is still closed headed north that way.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Wshowell

That looks really nice. I only knew about Pfeiffer. This is just a quick shake down trip but that will be on my future plans. I also think Highway 1 is still closed headed north that way.

Hey Shawn- Hwy 1 is closed at Limekiln- a few miles north of Plaskett Creek CG & Kirk Creek Creek CG.

FYI to all- Washburn CG @ San Simeon SP is FCFS, whereas the sites below are reservable and more $$.

[Jeff Thoelke]

I would replace the GFCI outlet if I were you. I had a similar issue and mine been solid since I replaced it.