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03-08-2016, 10:14 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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The locking mechanism is adjustable for a snug fit.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-08-2016, 03:35 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,374
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I don't know if your "fixed" post was before or after I stopped to see you along TX 118, but if you are still having a problem something you might try it to stack "stuff" in the center of the box so that it lightly touched the underside of the top cover. If the vibration is the top cover flexing with the air flow from the tow vehicle, the pressure from underneath might do the trick.
Nice meeting you!
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03-08-2016, 03:40 PM
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#23
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Vibration when towing our new Escape 21
At the Matagorda Madness rally we spoke to a couple with a brand new 21 that also had vibration problems from the storage box. In their case, the box itself was wobbling back and forth - it wasn't the lid. I suggested wedging a piece of high density foam between the box and the trailer and it solved their problem.
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"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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03-08-2016, 04:25 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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Hi, Jon. My post was prior to leaving Alpine. The lid felt snug and I was hopeful. Your idea about supporting the center from underneath is worth a shot. Skip thinks (at this point) that air is coming in from the rear edges... Maybe. No vibration if we keep the speed at or below 61 mph. That's not horrible, and we may be happier with our mpg, too.
Another thing is stuff inside the box gets banged around: we bought a bag of blocks in late September, and granted the bag is thin nylon and a tight fit, but it already has holes in it, as if it's 10 or more years old. So maybe it's the entire box that's vibrating- but it sure seems the lid is flexing to get the whole thing moving. Maybe.
Thanks again for stopping and helping us troubleshoot!!
__________________
Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-08-2016, 04:29 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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My nylon bag split the first time I tried putting all the blocks back into the bag.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-08-2016, 04:30 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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Robert, at Mat Madness, did y'all verify that the box was not loose? That's the next thing we'll check, to be sure the bolts at the bottom are snug.
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Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-08-2016, 04:37 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary F
So maybe it's the entire box that's vibrating- but it sure seems the lid is flexing to get the whole thing moving. Maybe.
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I just read through this thread for the first time, and what you say here makes good sense, along with the foam fix in the box Robert suggested belong too.
Though adjusting the lid catches can reduce or eliminate the noticeable vibrations, this may likely be just a symptom, and not the cause. If the box itself vibrates, this could be more noticeably seen in the hinged lid.
The box itself is modestly flexible, way more than the fibreglass shell it due to the open top. It could be the vibrations are very modest ones in the frame from the tires on n the road, and this is transferred through the box, to the lid.
Maybe some kind of shock absorbing mount could be the solution.
Just another thought.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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03-08-2016, 04:47 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
I suggested wedging a piece of high density foam between the box and the trailer and it solved their problem.
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That would be a short term solution but long term it could cause a problem. If there is differential movement and road grit gets on the foam it could scuff up the gelcoat.
I'd make sure the box is as solidly connected to the frame as possible and also put a foam strip on the underside of the lid. I'd use a foam (like weather stripping foam) thick enough that you had to compress it slightly to put the hasp on.
Ron
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03-09-2016, 11:07 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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Another wrinkle
Last night we noticed the rivet holding the center brace was broken. Again wonder if it's a cause or a symptom.
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Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-09-2016, 11:30 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,824
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One rivet installed like that isn't very strong. Two would have been better.
Also, I see rivets have been installed through the f.g. without a backing washer. Normally pop rivets that go through two layers of metal don't require anything on the end that "mushrooms". When using soft material, normally a washer is installed so that the force of the rivet is spread over a wider area. Personally I regard the resin as a semi-soft material and would have used a backing washer.
Don't know the function of those rivets but if they are load bearing I'd do that mod as well as add at least one more rivet to the area where the rivet failed.
Ron
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03-09-2016, 11:42 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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This is a temporary fix: Skip was able to get part of the rivet out and ran a sheet metal screw through the hole and the rest of the rivet (wch he was unable to remove since we don't have our drill).
Sorry, we are driving through southern New Mexico and cell service is spotty...
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Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-09-2016, 12:04 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Actually mine has 2 rivets on each side, total of 4 attachment points to fiberglass.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-09-2016, 12:05 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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We've driven 60 or so miles this morning and it is better. For now. FWIW.
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Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-09-2016, 12:13 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Travis County, Texas
Trailer: 2015 Esc 21. Formerly, Casita LD (16 & 17)
Posts: 803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Actually mine has 2 rivets on each side, total of 4 attachment points to fiberglass.
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As does ours, Jim. The broken rivet holds the brace that spans the center of the box, from front to back. The brace is held by a single rivet on each end, connecting it to the metal pieces that are joined to the fiberglass, as you described. Here's another pic of the sheet metal screw, where you can see the join to the fiberglass.
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Mary F Onward, through the fog!
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03-09-2016, 02:00 PM
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#35
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary F
Robert, at Mat Madness, did y'all verify that the box was not loose? That's the next thing we'll check, to be sure the bolts at the bottom are snug.
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Yes, the bolts were tight. But, with little effort, you could rock the whole box back and forth. The box on the 21 is larger, but the structure isn't any thicker. That to me would result in a more flexible box, and vibration would be greater. Obviously with the support bracket broken, you had even less rigidity. I think the larger the box is, they need to make it slightly thicker in order to keep the rigidity and make for a more stable mount. Either that, or they should glass in a beefier support structure. The box on our 19 feels much more solid than on the 21 I mentioned, and you can't rock it back and forth.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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03-09-2016, 02:17 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
The box on the 21 is larger, but the structure isn't any thicker. That to me would result in a more flexible box, and vibration would be greater. Obviously with the support bracket broken, you had even less rigidity. I think the larger the box is, they need to make it slightly thicker in order to keep the rigidity and make for a more stable mount. Either that, or they should glass in a beefier support structure.
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I would vote for the glassed-in reinforcement, but that could be a lot of hand labour, either driving the box price up or making it less profitable. Although this would be best done while the box is being made, I suppose an owner could do it later. It could even be an opportunity to compartmentalize the space with dividing walls.
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03-09-2016, 02:42 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Area 51, New Mexico
Trailer: pondering.....
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary F
As does ours, Jim. The broken rivet holds the brace that spans the center of the box, from front to back. The brace is held by a single rivet on each end, connecting it to the metal pieces that are joined to the fiberglass, as you described. Here's another pic of the sheet metal screw, where you can see the join to the fiberglass.
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do they put metal flat washers on ALL rivets that protrude the fiberglass? Looks like some in that pic posted do not have anything but the fiberglass under the rivet compression.
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03-09-2016, 02:53 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Area 51, New Mexico
Trailer: pondering.....
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
One rivet installed like that isn't very strong. Two would have been better.
Also, I see rivets have been installed through the f.g. without a backing washer. Normally pop rivets that go through two layers of metal don't require anything on the end that "mushrooms". When using soft material, normally a washer is installed so that the force of the rivet is spread over a wider area. Personally I regard the resin as a semi-soft material and would have used a backing washer.
Don't know the function of those rivets but if they are load bearing I'd do that mod as well as add at least one more rivet to the area where the rivet failed.
Ron
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agree...IMHO shoddy construction technique/design especially for the cost of this option. Does anybody know if Escape is making the storage box or is it sub-contracted?
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03-09-2016, 02:57 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Trailer: 2015 21ft Escape "Spirit of the Plains", 2014 GMC Sierra with max tow package
Posts: 1,100
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I saw a storage box mold when we toured the factory in Sept. 2014. Loren
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03-09-2016, 03:00 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,554
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Escape makes the storage box. They also do what they can to keep it light, and not add too much tongue weight.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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