Victron dc-dc charger

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Crazypill

Victron Energy Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 9 amp 110-Watt DC-DC Converter, Isolated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6H8VKL/

70 bucks

I pointed it out in another thread, but for those considering it the Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 9 amp DC to DC converter, is not a 3 stage charger - it only produces an adjustable output voltage, and does not have bluetooth. Since it doesn't do a float, if you install one, it would be good to have a way to turn it off once the trailer batteries are full.

[alanerickson]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I pointed it out in another thread, but for those considering it the Orion-Tr IP43 12/12-Volt 9 amp DC to DC converter, is not a 3 stage charger - it only produces an adjustable output voltage, and does not have bluetooth. Since it doesn't do a float, if you install one, it would be good to have a way to turn it off once the trailer batteries are full.

Nothing wrong with the Victron, but I'm going to go with the Renogy, because of the float and it's just a little easier to setup, even though it's about $25 more.

When ETI installed my Victron, instead of running separate neutrals they just have one and have jumpered the two together at the charger. Seems like that kind of defeats the purpose of having an isolated charger. Do I have to worry about too much current heading to the tow vehicle in any situation? I could certainly see how if I lost one of the battery grounds that it could/would all go to the truck ground.

[alanerickson]

Factory wiring. Is it me or is that jumpered neutral concerning?

[Crazypill]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

Factory wiring. Is it me or is that jumpered neutral concerning?

Yes, common ground there.

Oh I misread , no its not concerning

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Crazypill

Yes, common ground there.

Oh I misread , no its not concerning

Not concerning - true. But if you did intended to use the isolation capabilities of the unit then the jumper defeats the purpose.

[bborzell]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

Factory wiring. Is it me or is that jumpered neutral concerning?

I would be concerned about having the cooling fins laying flat against the linoleum covered wood floor.

Victron install instructions call for a vertical mount with the fins being several inches off any wall or surface that will block cooling. I built a vertical bracket for mine and sent a picture to ETI. They replied saying that they will switch to a vertical mount.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Your tow vehicle ground is already connected to the trailer ground/negative, it has to be for the driving lights and brakes.

[alanerickson]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Your tow vehicle ground is already connected to the trailer ground/negative, it has to be for the driving lights and brakes.

Makes sense. That said, I wonder how much current is going back through the neutral wire versus the frame/ball hitch/chains? If it's all through the 7-pin neutral then the charger plus lights seems like it could easily be over 30A.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by alanerickson

Makes sense. That said, I wonder how much current is going back through the neutral wire versus the frame/ball hitch/chains? If it's all through the 7-pin neutral then the charger plus lights seems like it could easily be over 30A.

that neutral wire is relatively short, as its just from the frame of the trailer to the pigtail/plug, and from the outlet on the tow vehicle to its frame.

anyways, LED lights don't draw much current, maybe 1/4 amp each (12 volts at 3 watts is 0.25 amps... and a 3 watt red or amber LED is a darn bright one.)

OTOH, trailer brakes DO draw quite a bit of current, around 3 amps per brake, so 4 * 3 = 12 amps for our dual axle Escapes, but thats only when braking at max force, something you don't do for very long under most circumstances..

[alanerickson]

Ended up with the Renogy, set it up for 10A charging, and in the end I'm happy with it, although it took a bit to get it installed. The Renogy has a 12v input that you can use to signal charging enable, and tied that into my running lights so when I turn my lights off the charging also stops. Works well.

And my Thornwave Powermon has a relay built into it with on on/off right on the main page of the app, and I ran the running light enable through that switch, so now I can turn on/off charging via bluetooth or while going down the road if wanted or needed (and I want to keep my running lights on). The bluetooth was the one thing I like about the Victron, but with the capability I get from the Thornwave it's just as good for my needs.

[dcgrout]

I like what you did rotating the dc-dc unit to q vertical position. Very clean and simple mod. I will do the same. I was surprised, however, when I removed the plywood bed base to find out the cross supports did not have a so,id connection to the exterior wall board, and the strength of the base relies on the 4” edge of the plywood mounted on the wall board. There is a wire bundle along the wall that is for sure in the way, but it seems to me they could have secured the wires 1.5” lower and run another ledger board to provide a solid brace point for the bed cross members. Has anyone else seen this on their units? If so, anyone made a mod that makes the bed a bit more secure? I have some ideas, but don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by dcgrout

Has anyone else seen this on their units? If so, anyone made a mod that makes the bed a bit more secure? I have some ideas, but don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Thanks.

Yes, this has been a topic of many threads.

Some will reply that it's a crap way to construct the bed platform while the majority of folks just get into bed and don't lose any sleep over it.

Ron