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Old 09-23-2021, 09:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
David could be correct, but looking at the two photos, specifically the one that displays how it should look, it would seem to me that it would have taken a huge amount of force to push the tank inward like that. In the past, people have posted that they had to exert a great amount of force on the initial removal of the anode, some using cheater bars, yet without resulting in deformed metal shrouds. I would tend to believe it was damaged before installation and installed anyway. I’m not suggesting it was intentional. If you install a lot of water heaters, you probably only notice the electric and plumbing connections. It would be hard to convince me that road vibration could dislodge the internal components as seen in Ronnie’s photo. IMO, this should be a warranty issue either covered by ETI or Suburban.
Fair enough, I wasn't trying to speculate on 'how', 'why', or 'who should fix' aspects of the apparent problem, I'm just curious to better understand the physical situation as it is now. Thus wondering if the tank is displaced from where it should be for whatever cause or reason.

We all seem to agree that 'something is wonky' but IMO it's not clear exactly what that is beyond the obviously 'recessed' end of the anode relative to the outside plate / shield / whatever you call it.

Maybe that's of little interest or importance to OP Bladesong or anyone else, no worries!
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Old 09-24-2021, 06:02 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Centex View Post
Fair enough, I wasn't trying to speculate on 'how', 'why', or 'who should fix' aspects of the apparent problem, I'm just curious to better understand the physical situation as it is now. Thus wondering if the tank is displaced from where it should be for whatever cause or reason.

We all seem to agree that 'something is wonky' but IMO it's not clear exactly what that is beyond the obviously 'recessed' end of the anode relative to the outside plate / shield / whatever you call it.

Maybe that's of little interest or importance to OP Bladesong or anyone else, no worries!
I recognize that Alan. I just was trying to say that it is doubtful that the OP’s actions resulted in this condition, and it should be corrected/replaced by ETI or the manufacturer at NO COST to Bladesong. And I quoted you because I was agreeing with both David and you that “assemblies” in the OP’s water heater are shifted or out of place. I think we all agree “it ain’t right!” I apologize if you read something into my post that I truly did not intend.
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:30 AM   #23
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This is one of those problems that, when you look at it, your first thought is "this should not have been possible!" So whatever the cause, it is something unlikely and that very rarely happens. I think the most likely is that the water heater was damaged in manufacture or shipping and was installed that way at ETI and the recessed drain plug went unnoticed. Less likely is that during the build someone yanked up on the water heater inside the trailer when installing it and caused that problem. Some kind of bump while traveling seems very unlikely but not impossible. If it were my trailer I'd just check the water heater inside to make sure it has no movement up and down and is firmly fastened down. If it's been in use for many months, that is probably the case. Then it's on to ETI and Suburban to see if they will accept responsibility for this issue and replace the water heater.
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:25 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
I recognize that Alan. .... I apologize if you read something into my post that I truly did not intend.
Nope, no apology necessary, all is good

(except Bladesong's water heater so good luck with that!)
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:41 AM   #25
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Then it's on to ETI and Suburban to see if they will accept responsibility for this issue and replace the water heater.
Good luck with that. I don’t know about the new ETI, but when I had trouble with my water heater Suburban didn’t even want to talk to me. And that was on warranty. And the nearest Suburban warranty dealer didn’t want to be bothered with it because 1. He said he would lose money on it. And 2. I didn’t buy my trailer from them.
I very tactfully replied that he had already lost a lot of money. How do you figure he asked. To which I replied that the wife and I were both in our 70’s and at some point we will want a bigger camper, and guess where we won’t be buying it.
So in the end with the help of the internet I figured it out and fixed it myself.
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Old 09-24-2021, 10:48 AM   #26
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Good luck with that. I don’t know about the new ETI, but when I had trouble with my water heater Suburban didn’t even want to talk to me. And that was on warranty. And the nearest Suburban warranty dealer didn’t want to be bothered with it because 1. He said he would lose money on it. And 2. I didn’t buy my trailer from them.
I very tactfully replied that he had already lost a lot of money. How do you figure he asked. To which I replied that the wife and I were both in our 70’s and at some point we will want a bigger camper, and guess where we won’t be buying it.
So in the end with the help of the internet I figured it out and fixed it myself.
While I understand your annoyance with the dealer, the facts are that 1. Dometic is famous for not paying dealers what it costs them to make warranty repairs. And 2, with the combination of the large number of units sold these days & the extremely poor quality control by manufacturers, dealers do have the problem that just keeping their own customer's RVs in working order consumes all of their shop hours.

I wish there was a solution, but I don't have any suggestions other than finding a shop that does not do sales.
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Old 09-24-2021, 11:17 AM   #27
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shop that does not do sales

I.e. a mobile mechanic.
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Old 09-29-2021, 11:56 AM   #28
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It's accessed through the outside not the inside of the trailer.
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