What went wrong?

[kavm]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

——————————————————————————————————-

Ignore the nasty responses, glad all are safe and there’s no damage done.
....

Ditto! Certain posters here unfortunately have a habit of doing this.

There are some very constructive responses. Focus on those- and ignore the trollish posts.

[Doug2000]

Frist thing I do is test my brakes after leaving the driveway, I like to go, but I like to stop more.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Doug2000

First thing I do is test my brakes after leaving the driveway, I like to go, but I like to stop more.

Hi: Doug2000... I don't even wait to leave the driveway. Once we're hooked up and ready to go I put the truck in gear and the trailer brake controller at 100%. Let off the truck brakes and try to pull away. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[kavm]

Originally Posted by Doug2000

Frist thing I do is test my brakes after leaving the driveway, I like to go, but I like to stop more.

Could you please share how exactly you do that? Some of us are very new to this business of trailers and don’t exactly know these things. I read with interest what Brian wrote earlier in the thread about setting up the brake gain. Will try to do those things but there are challenges - where we live, there terrain is very up and down with not a lot of flat. There isn’t a lot of opportunity for coasting.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gclatz

Again: ... I brought My trailer home all the way uphill no braking needed, confident that this shop has a good track record

It makes no sense to me to not try the brakes after getting major brake work. Maybe I'm just less blindly trusting than some; maybe my approach is different because I usually do my own mechanical work so checking is normal.

Regardless of a general approach to managing service work, it is the driver's responsibility to ensure that the vehicle can be safely operated. Even when starting out from home or after a camping stop, the driver should confirm that the trailer brakes are working - I usually just brake normally and the presence or absence of trailer braking is apparent, but some particularly diligent drivers briefly activate the manual
control each time for confirmation.

Originally Posted by gclatz

... the time line was because of the travel restrictions
...
My trailer was sitting in My driveway From December 7th 2020 to June 19th 2021 The restrictions were lifted on June 15th 2021, does this makes sense to You?

Yes, the period of non-use makes perfect sense to me. It also makes sense to me that any shop owner would reasonably suspect that it is a convenient story, especially accompanied by the "I didn't touch the brake pedal the whole way home" explanation, so I'm not surprised that it was met by scepticism.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gclatz

And yes You are right I should have ask for the old parts, but I am a trusty person and I didn't gave a thought that something was wrong, I know that mistakes happen, but this kind of mistakes are negligent because this is a safety issue.

Most people don't ask for the old parts, and you shouldn't have to. I was just suggesting this for the future, not saying that anyone is obligated to do this or that non-working brakes are not a serious issue.

We still don't know why the brakes didn't work, and so we have no idea whether or not there was any mistake or negligence by the shop. For all we know, the controller might be unplugged or a fuse might be blown or the trailer's electrical cord might have corroded contacts. Now that I think about winter weather in the lower mainland, six months of sitting idle makes corrosion seem likely, although a lack of brake shoe adjustment or the other "break in" issues still seem more likely.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gclatz

After this service when I applied the brakes My Trailer didn't brake at all and I almost kill Myself with My wife in an intersection in a collision with other vehicle.

This could be interpreted as
"there was almost a collision, and if there had been the collision would have been fatal"
or
"there was a collision, and my wife and I were almost killed"

Apparently the first was intended, but I initially read it as the second... and there's a huge difference. Jumping to the conclusion that a collision would have been doubly fatal goes with the general theme here of turning "something didn't work as expected" into "the sky is falling ".

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by kavm

Could you please share how exactly you do that? Some of us are very new to this business of trailers and don’t exactly know these things. I read with interest what Brian wrote earlier in the thread about setting up the brake gain. Will try to do those things but there are challenges - where we live, there terrain is very up and down with not a lot of flat. There isn’t a lot of opportunity for coasting.

Even coasting downhill, you can immediately feel the pull when you manually apply the brake controller (but don't go wild with this and lock up the trailer tires!).

Another way to check if the brakes are working at all is to manually apply the trailer brakes when stopped (such as in a parking lot), and try to pull forward slowly - again,t he effect of the trailer brakes should be obvious.

Neither of these addresses the issue of breaking in the brakes, but up and down terrain is perfect for that because it involves frequent normal braking.

[Iowa Dave]

As posted, I’ve found properly burnishing in the shoes and properly adjusting the brakes is an important part of a brake job after the main “work” of the job is done. With true P-3 controller I start with too high a number for the setting in a gravel parking lot or in a country road. Say I set it at 4.0. Rolling at 15 or 20
Miles an hour I manually apply the trailer brakes with the controller actuator. I want them to grab right now and slide the tires. Then I back them off to say 2.0 and see how that feels with the tow vehicle brake pedal. I want to feel the trailer brakes doing their job of slowing and stopping the trailer and the tow rig brakes taking care of the tow rig with stopping distances not impacted by the trailer behind. It takes a while to get the feel if you’ve not towed with electric trailer brakes in the past. Those connections between the brake magnets and the trailer loom and the tow rig and trailer at the 7 pin are paramount and have to be “solid”.
As some have offered, I’ll take some things in to a shop that I cannot do myself but with a little help from my friends that doesn’t happen often. I prefer to do the trailer brakes and bearings myself. 50 plus years of experience plays in there for sure. Hope the OP gets things working safely and to their satisfaction.
Iowa Dave

[kavm]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Even coasting downhill, you can immediately feel the pull when you manually apply the brake controller (but don't go wild with this and lock up the trailer tires!).

Another way to check if the brakes are working at all is to manually apply the trailer brakes when stopped (such as in a parking lot), and try to pull forward slowly - again,t he effect of the trailer brakes should be obvious.

Neither of these addresses the issue of breaking in the brakes, but up and down terrain is perfect for that because it involves frequent normal braking.

Thank you very much Brian! That’s a good idea. I will try to low it at a low speed and gentle slope…

Thanks a lot for your patient answers. I am sorry about the basic questions - but I am at the beginning of my knowledge and skill development in this domain.

[gbaglo]

Also, when you apply the brakes, using the manual lever on the controller, your trailer brake lights will not light up, so don't do this in traffic.

[kavm]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Also, when you apply the brakes, using the manual lever on the controller, your trailer brake lights will not light up, so don't do this in traffic.

Thank you for letting me know! That's very useful. I figured this was a risky maneuver and have avoided for it at this stage... I have never really used the manual braking system - though I know how to use it.

I kind of know that my trailer brakes work - as it does not push / pull at the truck in a significant way. Once in a while when coming to a harder than intended full stop - it pushes a bit but that seems reasonable. Sudden stops are very rare in my driving...

I still need to figure out whether my gain setting of 6 on the truck is correct or needs adjusting. I have the concept but need to get the courage to try it out - while having enough other things to worry about.

The camper is currently in the shop for -

• brake adjustment - there was a recommendation to have them adjusted after a few hundred miles. I did not tackle that during our return trip but now this is getting done.
• Warranty issue with the SeeLevel II
• Installation of Houghton AC

Once it comes out - it'll will also planned to get the Trailer TPMS (integrated into the Ford safety system) and possibly swapping with Ford rear camera (which is integrated into Ford safety system). I will inquire at the Ford dealership about the trailer backup assistance system.

[edlynnrich]

Keep us updated on using Ford’s TPMS on your trailer. I’m curious about how they do that. Do the valve stems on the trailer tires ? We were also thinking of integrating Ford’s back up camera into our 21 We have ordered the back up camera but were wondering if we could maybe get the trailer pre-wired for the camera and install Ford’s. When we talked to our sales rep he wasn’t sure.

[edlynnrich]

Should have said; Do the valve stems on the trailer tires have to be replaced?

[kavm]

Will do.

We got the backup camera from Escape. But, have not found it of much use - as it is one more thing to worry about when I am struggling. On the truck - when backing up without the camper, the reverse camera already comes on and is immensely helpful. So, I am hoping that is what will happen.

Will see if I can find a buyer for the Escape camera, but just have not been able to integrate it into our usage. Not Escape or camera’s fault…

[Mountain Mike]

We have had good experiences with this RV repair shop, will take our unit there again when required. New brakes do need to be run in so they will seat properly and work correctly. Always do a trailer brake application prior to heading out to ensure they are working correctly. I do a static test in the driveway first, then pullout on to our road and do another trailer brake only application. Make any corrections and head out for adventure.

[Mike G]

Just letting my trailer sit unused for a period of time will result in a need to raise the brake controller setting for a few stops. I think the drums form some rust on the inside and that changes the level of friction until it's gotten rid of. Anyway, at times like those I usually test the brakes while still in the neighborhood, before I get out on the main drag.

[scubarx]

I have no idea what could have gone wrong with your brakes, but I am curious as to why all your pronouns are capitalized. What gives?

[kavm]

Originally Posted by diannelgraham

It’s fine to have opposing views but it’s not OK to attack and belittle people. This thread is a reminding factor on why I visit this form less and less. The old timers on there need to realize they are the bullies that have dominated this form for way to long. Shame on all of you and I so hope the new Escape form takes off. Good bye!

I agree.

Gbaglo - Several readers, including myself, found the totality of your string of responses to be attacking. In my case, here and elsewhere. Without descending into them further - I would urge you to attempt to moderate them.

Your experience and knowledge is very valuable and opposing points of view are fine. The repetitive stream of negative responses with little content from you does belittle and and discourage the posters and makes them question their continued participation in the forum. It is quite possible to be skeptical while being constructive and not accusatory. Brian’s post early in the thread is a superb example of that.

Just because you have very good experience with a certain business does not suddenly make other people’s negative experiences a lie. Give them space to tell their perspective of what transpired, question what you must but allow it to be about their story rather than your skepticism.

I certainly do not intend this post as an attack on you. Your knowledge and help (the latest instance is your very thoughtful observation for me in this very thread) is extremely valuable and I very much welcome it and thank you for it. We must, however, also together strive to keep it a place people feel welcome to share their issues, get and give advice.

[Iowa Dave]

On little used brakes, on automobiles, when all the brakes were drum brakes we would often pull the drums for a couple of reasons when the customer experienced reduced braking.
1. Pivot points for the shoes were dry and rusty.
2. Glazed brake shoes
3. To lubricate the adjusters
4. To inspect and ascertain that the customer did not have a leaking wheel cylinder that needed replaced or rebuilt
5. To lightly polish rust and glazing off of the drums with emery cloth.

If the hydraulic system indicated a leaking brake hose, low fluid in the master cylinder or we had rebopped any or all of the wheel cylinders. It was time to bleed the air out of the system.

My dad would have me get in the car or truck and raise the vehicle to the maximum height on the hoist. . He would hook up the bleeder hose setup and I would push on the brake pedal slowly till he told me to stop.
Once done, my dad would ask if I was ready to come down. He’d say “you better enjoy it now because it’s as close to heaven as you’re ever going to get.”
The vehicle back on the ground he would back it out onto the driveway at a pretty good clip and slam on the brakes while yelling “Whoa Nelly”.
And the vehicle stopped abruptly, always.
A 60 year old anecdote from:
Iowa Dave and “Smitty”. 1st Army, 3rd Armored Division “Spearhead”, 32nd armored regiment, Company B, Call sign “Oriole”.