7 way plug charge line amp requirement - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-25-2017, 09:16 PM   #1
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7 way plug charge line amp requirement

Question for the forum. For the new 5.0TA's, with the 3 way, 6 ft^3 fridge, what is the amperage requirement when operating at 12 volts? We're on our way up to pick ours up and the owners manual for our 2018 Chevrolet Colorado, with the HD trailer package, discusses a charge line for the 7 way connection that (para) "assists battery charging". And it is only active with the lights or the tow haul mode turned on. I'm guessing that the fridge requires ~25 amps, which is much more than the 5-6 amps required for max battery charging. So, if my charge line is lacking, I need to let Trademasters know the day before our 5.0TA pickup, when we're getting our Anderson hitch and pickup bed plug installed.
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:56 AM   #2
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I found a manual for the Dometic 2663, which I think is the correct model, and it mentions a 30A fuse on the 12v DC heater. So, that's an upper bound anyways. Your 25A guess is probably about dead on. So, 10AWG is good enough for safety anyways.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:43 AM   #3
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For the new 5.0TA's, with the 3 way, 6 ft^3 fridge, what is the amperage requirement when operating at 12 volts?
I'm very interested as well in actual measurements people have done. I'm guessing with a 30 Amp fuse it is not as high as 25 Amps. That seems too close to the limit. I did a quick search and found a couple of people mentioning 15 Amps. But I did not know if these were actual measurements or not. FYI...

Battery Charging While Running Fridge on 12V
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #4
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The service manual says 18.0 amps for an RM 2663 (and presumably any Americana 6 cubic foot)... but that's at 12 volts.

If you give it more voltage (battery voltage is usually higher than that, and charging voltage even higher), it will take more current. The element resistance is listed as 0.67 ohms, so - for instance - if it is hit with 14 volts it will take 21 amps. If - for another example - your battery or charging system is struggling to maintain 11 volts at the refrigerator (after voltage loss due to resistance in the wires) the DC heater would take 16.4 amps.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:45 PM   #5
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The service manual says 18.0 amps for a 2663 (and presumably any Americana 6 cubic foot)... but that's at 12 volts.

If you give it more voltage (battery voltage is usually higher than that, and charging voltage even higher), it will take more current. The element resistance is listed as 0.67 ohms, so - for instance - if it is hit with 14 volts it will take 21 amps. If - for another example - your battery or charging system is struggling to maintain 11 volts at the refrigerator (after voltage loss due to resistance in the wires) the DC heater would take 16.4 amps.
Took possession last week. My nameplate (near hinge, with door open), says 23 amps, at 12 volts. I.e., 276 watts, which jives with 2.7 amps at 110 volts (also on nameplate), Actually nameplate MIGHT be at 120 volts, but it's all part of the same required wattage "fact family". FYI, my problem is now with my Colorado diesel charge line. It won't keep the Escape battery up with the fridge on. NO good reason for this, except for Chevy minimizing charge line capacity. The alternator can put out ~1.7kw, so it's just a matter of getting fusing, switching, and line sizing right. That's what I need to investigate when we return home, just B4 Christmas..
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:56 PM   #6
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Maybe this would work better:

Purpose of 6ga hot wire from converter/charger to hitch

See Post #10
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:13 PM   #7
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Took possession last week. My nameplate (near hinge, with door open), says 23 amps, at 12 volts. I.e., 276 watts, which jives with 2.7 amps at 110 volts (also on nameplate)...
Great info - what specific model of refrigerator is this?

Nameplate info is usually a maximum, so that may mean 23 amps at the highest actual voltage expected from a (nominally) "12-volt" power source.

Also, the 12 volt DC and 120 (or 110) volt AC power don't need to correspond at all, since they are separate heaters (two separate elements installed in the same housing). The DC heater is routinely lower-powered than the AC heater, which is one of the reasons that DC operation is recommended only when AC power and propane are not available.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:37 PM   #8
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Maybe this would work better:

Purpose of 6ga hot wire from converter/charger to hitch

See Post #10
Post 10 didn't help me much, but the use of the 6 gauge wire by Escape validated what we already knew. That (in spite of them telling folks falsely that most TV's can't keep a 12 volt fridge going), they EXPECT that kind of amperage from the TV. In fact, it's required, and the TV charge line needs to be just as burly. This helps me....
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by phalaney View Post
Post 10 didn't help me much, but the use of the 6 gauge wire by Escape validated what we already knew. That (in spite of them telling folks falsely that most TV's can't keep a 12 volt fridge going), they EXPECT that kind of amperage from the TV. In fact, it's required, and the TV charge line needs to be just as burly. This helps me....
What I was told is that if you are boondocking and running the furnace and fridge etc., and you leave that campsite with a depleted battery, driving while running the fridge on 12V, you will arrive at your next campsite with a depleted battery.
They did not say that the tow vehicle won't keep the 12V fridge running.
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:14 AM   #10
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Got a battery meter installed, so now I can give an actual answer to this. The 6cu ft 3-way Dometic fridge in my 2017 19' (presumably the same model as the 6cu ft 3-way in the 21') draws 23.4A at 13.11V.
A duty cycle under 100% will bring that average down, of course, but based on other threads about the effectiveness (or lack thereof) of the fridge on 12V power, I'm guessing it's not far off 100% if the weather's warm.
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