Anode Discussion - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-07-2016, 11:16 AM   #21
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Bottom line, it would appear we shouldn't have had the rod replaced, nor should we have agreed to the magnesium rod. I guess it's all a learning curve. (BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)
As Carl explained, I would go for the magnesium rod too. But you are right that it did not need to be replaced for some time yet. They may be cheap, but I hate to throw things away that are still useful, and put my $15 towards a few beer.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:09 PM   #22
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Thanks Carl and Jim ... your analysis makes me feel better about the magnesium rod replacement at least.
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:18 PM   #23
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(Maybe we need to split anode discussion off the wheel bearing thread?)
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(BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)
Yeah, thanks! I wasn't reading the wheel bearing thread any longer, but I've started to read this one. Heck, I didn't even know what an anode is, where it is and what the purpose is. I do now.
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Old 04-07-2016, 02:03 PM   #24
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We rarely use the hot water heater, but when we do, never leave it on indefinitely. My anode, the original, after 31 months.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg anode.jpg (59.8 KB, 22 views)
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:09 PM   #25
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Having difficulty removing anode

This is my 2nd year owning a 15' Escape. I live in Sacramento, California where winter temps rarely dip below 36 degrees, and when they do it's typically for less than an hour. That's why I feel fairly confident I don't need to winterize trailer using anti-freeze but I do empty the lines and water tank. Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:31 PM   #26
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Hope you wrapped the threads with plumber tape before re-installing it. Otherwise, you can move just about anything using the lever principal. A piece of pipe over the ratchet can extend the handle and increase leverage.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:32 PM   #27
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Jen & Angie some rust dissolver shouldn't present any problem as it should not get into the tank itself. When you put the anode (or a new one) back in, be sure to wrap the threads in teflon tape. That helps both to prevent it leaking and makes it easier to remove in the future.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:41 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Jen & Angie View Post
Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.
Use a 6 point socket versus 12 if possible for better engagement with the anode head. Put on the shortest extension that works and use a breaker bar. Some advise against rust remover because of fear of it seeping into the tank but honestly I don't think a couple squirts of BP Blaster on the threads is going to hurt anyone. Other than that you can try an impact wrench. Once you get it out make sure the threads are clean on the water heater and put teflon tape on the new anode before putting it in.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:53 PM   #29
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Second the breaker bar. I use a swivel head one about 2 feet long, with a shallow socket. Works easily. Wrap the threads (just the threads) with Teflon tape on the new one before installing. By the way, the breaker bar also makes short work of removing tight lug nuts, and makes adjusting my Anderson Hitch a snap. I wouldn't be without it.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:55 PM   #30
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Jen and Angie, do you have a breaker bar to put on the anode socket wrench? Think that is what we used. Also Teflon tape. Do not recommend rust remover.
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