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Old 12-13-2016, 03:43 PM   #41
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Impact works better than continuous high torque to break threads loose without tearing equipment apart. Anything you can get a socket on can have the socket driven by an impact wrench... but don't overdo it!

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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I find a quick targeted heat on the side of the nut to be more effective than a lower diffuse heat of a heat gun. I zap it for a few seconds, only to heat the nut. I not worried that the heat is on long enough to reach of damage other items.
Heating only the nut works well because the nut expands (with increased temperature) more than the bolt or stud it's on. In the case of the heater's anode, you would want to heat the tank (the part on the outside of the threads) more than the anode, which might be tough.
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Old 12-13-2016, 05:04 PM   #42
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Hi: Donna D... Thanks for the reminder. What I'd like to know... Is there a safe solution to remove the rust from the threads of the water heater? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
I believe the water heater threads are 1-inch NPT fine. A tap that size should clean out any rust build-up. But after doing so, I would flush the tank to rinse out any debris. The threads on the anode do not go all the way into the threaded portion of the hot water tank, so rust on the innermost threads can be expected.
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:25 AM   #43
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3/4 NPT tap to clean the threads
I use a 8"long 3/4 inch piece of threaded pipe to drain my hot water tank which keeps the bottom of the water heater compartment from rusting away. open the pressure relief to completely drain the tank and then flush it out with a flush wand
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:44 AM   #44
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You know, a threaded pipe extension sounds like a good idea, something to do in the winter while it is unplugged, you say 3/4" pipe threads? Have to make a m/f adapter.
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Old 12-14-2016, 01:36 PM   #45
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3/4 NPT tap to clean the threads
I use a 8"long 3/4 inch piece of threaded pipe to drain my hot water tank which keeps the bottom of the water heater compartment from rusting away. open the pressure relief to completely drain the tank and then flush it out with a flush wand
Jerry
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You know, a threaded pipe extension sounds like a good idea, something to do in the winter while it is unplugged, you say 3/4" pipe threads? Have to make a m/f adapter.
Perhaps something has changed, but I just put a caliper on the anode for my Suburban water heater and it is definitely 1-inch, not 3/4. And I'm a little confused. To drain my Suburban water heater (it is a two-way model), I have to remove the anode and the water comes gushing out. How would one replace the anode with a section of pipe if the anode itself is installed in the "drain" hole?
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Old 12-14-2016, 01:39 PM   #46
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You are right I was thinking of my past Atwood models with a petcock....
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Old 12-14-2016, 01:49 PM   #47
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Wait, just found this, an anode with a drain plug.... knew I had seen one in my travels... Camco 11533 Anode Rod with Drain Camper Trailer RV
on edit, it may or may not fit the Suburban....
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:02 PM   #48
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Wait, just found this, an anode with a drain plug.... knew I had seen one in my travels... Camco 11533 Anode Rod with Drain Camper Trailer RV
on edit, it may or may not fit the Suburban....
Jim, before buying that I would find out from Camco if the anode is magnesium or aluminum. Magnesium is much more reactive than aluminum, meaning magnesium will provide a higher degree of protection. I, personally, would take magnesium over aluminum every time. And while that specific anode is made for aluminum Atwood tanks, there is a company that makes something similar for Suburban......but the anode is aluminum.
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:20 PM   #49
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So, do you open the drain cock and peer through the hole to determine the condition of the anode?
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:21 PM   #50
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Wait, just found this, an anode with a drain plug.... knew I had seen one in my travels... Camco 11533 Anode Rod with Drain Camper Trailer RV
on edit, it may or may not fit the Suburban....
That's a little bizarre, since the point of Atwood's aluminum tank is to avoid corrosion problems... but even aluminum does corrode, so I suppose it makes sense. I have one that recently developed a pinhole leak, perhaps due to corrosion (I haven't cut it apart yet to see the inside). As a bonus, the Atwood heater comes with just a drain plug, not a valve, so this would provide a valve. It's a pretty small valve, though, so it might not be great for flushing out sediment.

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Jim, before buying that I would find out from Camco if the anode is magnesium or aluminum. Magnesium is much more reactive than aluminum, meaning magnesium will provide a higher degree of protection. I, personally, would take magnesium over aluminum every time. And while that specific anode is made for aluminum Atwood tanks, there is a company that makes something similar for Suburban......but the anode is aluminum.
An aluminum anode in an aluminum tank would be pointless. This one (for the Atwood) is magnesium, as it would need to be for any effectiveness. I agree that it makes sense to check the material on an anode for a Suburban heater.
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:53 PM   #51
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For all you mechanically challenged folks- Yes the overall diameter of a 3/4" npt nipple is over 1".

1. Remove anode but keep pressure relief valve closed- you will get al little water out.

2. install 3/4" pipe nipple - 6" or longer works best.

3. open pressure relief valve ( make sure bucket is underneath water heater)
move bucket as water comes out fast.

4. remove 3/4" nipple and flush tank with flush wand

5. reinstall anode after wrapping with teflon tape, or leave it out for the tank to dry out, which is what I do when I store my trailer.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:04 PM   #52
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I don't understand what's being accomplished with extra bits.
I simply open the pressure relief valve to relieve pressure and remove the anode. I don't use a bucket. Water falls on the driveway.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:23 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryandmaria View Post
For all you mechanically challenged folks- Yes the overall diameter of a 3/4" npt nipple is over 1".

1. Remove anode but keep pressure relief valve closed- you will get al little water out.

2. install 3/4" pipe nipple - 6" or longer works best.

3. open pressure relief valve ( make sure bucket is underneath water heater)
move bucket as water comes out fast.

4. remove 3/4" nipple and flush tank with flush wand

5. reinstall anode after wrapping with teflon tape, or leave it out for the tank to dry out, which is what I do when I store my trailer.
Even though I am "mechanically challenged," I know a 3/4-inch nipple refers to the inside diameter just as a 3/4-inch PVC pipe has a inner diameter of 3/4-inch and a larger outside diameter. Furthermore, I can say with 100 percent certainty that I am not visually challenged and the tap that fits my water heater threads is clearly engraved indicating it is a 1" tap, not a 3/4-inch tap as referenced in your previous post. And while the water may not flow out smoothly (air moves in as water is displaced), even with the pressure relief valve closed I would get soaked and the tank would be empty long before I could get a nipple threaded in. I guess I must have a defective pressure relief valve because my tank empties in about 20 seconds when the anode is removed and the valve is not opened. I suppose that is a result of me being mechanically challenged; I am unable to prevent the effects of gravity and yes, I do resent insinuation and innuendo, particularly when it is not called for.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:26 PM   #54
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We have one of those doohickeys to get the stuff out of the water heater and if we use it, there is more than water in there that will come out.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:32 PM   #55
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Easy does it

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I don't understand what's being accomplished with extra bits.
I simply open the pressure relief valve to relieve pressure and remove the anode. I don't use a bucket. Water falls on the driveway.
Hi Glenn,
I use the same process. I use the tip of my muskrat knife to carefully clean up both the receiving threads on the heater and the threads on the anode. New tape in the spring and flush the dried deposits from the tank and we're ready to go. I return the pressure relief valve to closed to take the tension off the spring for the winter so it doesn't leak in the summer causing me to fall from grace.
Dave
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:39 PM   #56
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I find the water dumping out to be a mess, which may or may not matter depending on location. If for some reason (typically a plumbing or tank failure) you need to drain the tank without letting it cool first, it's even hot water. In an Atwood water heater (which doesn't need an anode, so it just has a drain plug) I have replaced the plug with a valve, which is tidier. In this case, if set up right a garden hose can even be screwed onto the outlet before opening the valve, so the drained water can be conveniently directed into a bucket.

I can see the appeal of a better way to direct the draining water, but putting anything in the drain port after removing the anode seems like a challenge for me.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:20 AM   #57
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Mesh-shmesh, Brian. It's only water! Let it run free. I'm with IowaDave and GBaggs....I don't use a pail, my threads have always been fine, and if I need to brush out or clean off some white calcification on threads I use a skinny pipe brush from a Harbor Freight package assortment. The whorl technique works for me. Don't think I would leave the anode out all winter though. Who knows what might crawl in there.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:51 AM   #58
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You can always repurpose a wine cork....
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Old 12-15-2016, 03:37 PM   #59
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Ok- I give up. 3/4" npt means that the pipe size is 3/4" trade size. NOT 3/4" overall !
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Old 12-15-2016, 04:56 PM   #60
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So that's where the Vodka is kept...
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