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Old 10-03-2019, 09:20 AM   #1
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Winterizing with air ?

I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.


Bob
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:39 AM   #2
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Did you get the E-Z winterizing set up option, if so your pump is winterized when you winterize the trailer.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:58 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Did you get the E-Z winterizing set up option, if so your pump is winterized when you winterize the trailer.
The winterizing option works well for pumping RV antifreeze through the pump and water lines but the OP wants to use air only , probably through the fresh water connection .
I tried winterizing with air ONLY one time and come Spring I had two cracked fittings
The fresh water lines in a trailer are not pitched to drain so water collects in low spots and freezes . We use both air and antifreeze , rather be safe than sorry .
RV antifreeze is cheap insurance IMHO
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:19 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.





Bob


Blowing out the lines is a standard practice, and ETI’s recommended procedure for winterizing. Except for your idea to remove the water pump. Escape posted a video for how to do this a couple of years ago. Somewhere.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:19 AM   #5
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I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.
Bob

That is what I have done for 4 winters now.
I do all the stuff that is in the "prescribed method" and then put an air fitting on the freshwater line on the side of the trailer, open all of the taps, remember the outside shower, and start up the air compressor and let it run.
Hold open the toilet flusher handle .
Till each one of the taps/toilets are running clear, all the spitting and splattering has finished.
But, I also take the input filter off of the water pump. the strainer between the tank and the pump. I just unscrew the clear dome and put it in the sink over the winter.
Then the sinks p traps get filled with about a liter each of RV antifreeze and about a gallon down the toilet.
The only damage that I have suffered is that the strainer clear dome was cracked the first year. it was the low point and water sat in the strainer and expanded and cracked it. that's why I just unscrew it and put it aside.

You can find the "prescribed method" from an email from Reace.
I can't find it right now but here are the instructions that I copied for method 2 from that post;

Method Two: Draining the Water Lines – from Reace at Escape Trailers
Winterize your RV water system as follows:
1 Drain the fresh water tank by opening the drain valve on the tank.
2 Remove the threaded black plastic plug from the water line located beside the freshwater tank drain. (Low Point Drain)
3 First, hold the toilet flush valve open for approximately 5-10 seconds to allow water to drain. Open all other taps (including exterior shower) and leave open.
4 Drain the remaining water out of the water heater by removing the drain plug, (1-1/16” socket) which is accessed by opening the exterior water heater door.
5 Apply Teflon tape to the threads on water heater drain plug and re-install.
6 Remove the screened washer on the City Water Fill. Behind the washer is a white plastic one-way-valve. Using your finger, lightly push this valve in to allow a small amount of trapped water to drain out.
7 Once there is no more water draining from the low point drain or fresh water tank, switch on the 12V water pump and run for approx 10 seconds. This will clear any water in the pump head out.
8 Re-install low point drain plug.
9 Pour 2 liters of RV anti-freeze into the toilet holding tank. Pour 1 liter down the kitchen sink drain, and pour 1 liter down the shower drain.

Never turn the water heater on until it is filled with water.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:38 AM   #6
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I do as John describes, but since I have an older pump there is not a plastic dome and filter to remove. I pay special attention to the toilet and make sure that all sputtering has stopped, then use the flush handle several more times to be sure it is dry. The pump that you use must be more than a tire inflater, it should have a tank. Even with a three gallon tank I did have to wait on several occasions for the tank to refill. The recommendation is 30 psi max.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:39 AM   #7
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I use the E-Z winterizing with one gal of antifreeze, done in 10 minutes, no air compressor needed.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:26 AM   #8
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John: That prescribed method you list above is only applicable to older trailers that might have a low point drain and even if you have a low point drain you don't have to use it (although I agree it is smart to start with a gravity draining of the lines if you do). I have attached what the online Owner's Manual currently says for both compressed air and antifreeze methods. Method 2 is still not accurate if you have the EZ winterizing setup. There is no reason to put antifreeze in the freshwater tank. Just use the pump to pull from the container and you are done. If the OP doesn't want to use antifreeze in the lines Method 1 should work just fine. Running the pump briefly as suggested should clear it of water, but I would consider disconnecting the line at the pump inlet and at the fresh water tank connection to be certain that line is drained. That is the only weak point in the compressed air method as far as I'm concerned.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:54 AM   #9
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John: That prescribed method you list above is only applicable to older trailers that might have a low point drain

but I would consider disconnecting the line at the pump inlet and at the fresh water tank connection to be certain that line is drained. That is the only weak point in the compressed air method as far as I'm concerned.
I do have an old trailer, with the low drain point, that I do open. usually only about an ounce comes out of that. just what is in the down pipe to the plug.

And 'removing the strainer filter' is effectively draining the line at the pump inlet.
So, I did find the weak point in year one.

You are right.

PS. I didn't know about the 50 lbs max air pressure, I have only ever used 30 lbs.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:01 PM   #10
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I do have an old trailer, with the low drain point, that I do open. usually only about an ounce comes out of that. just what is in the down pipe to the plug.

I too only got an ounce from the low-point drain. I was recently advised to open a tap and then open the low point drain. I drained another eight ounces when I did that.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:07 PM   #11
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I too only got an ounce from the low-point drain. I was recently advised to open a tap and then open the low point drain. I drained another eight ounces when I did that.
I'll check that again Glen, Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2019, 05:29 PM   #12
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i just empty the fresh water then pump the anti freeze through (after shutting off the hot water line & draining the hot water heater) then run the water pump pumping it through all the taps and into drains done very easy. I've never blown out the pipes.
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:04 PM   #13
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I drain and blow out my lines and use antifreeze in the drains.

I remove the exterior shower handle and both water control valves as the shower doesn’t seem to drain well.

I thought folks might find this antifreeze information of interest.

https://recvehicle.com/winterization-and-rv-antifreeze/
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
I would like to blow the water lines out with air and only use the RV antifreeze in the plumbing traps. Does anyone else do this ? I have concern about the water pressure pump, I assume it could just be removed and stored inside.


Bob

Is there an issue with running anti freeze thru the system? If not you could do like I do and run in the antifreeze then blow it out. Takes care of the pump and any other water that just blowing out might miss, and leaves a liter or so in each trap, and the toilet. I prefer to NOT leave anti freeze in the plumbing over the winter.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:22 PM   #15
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thanks for all the advice. I have a good grasp of the procedure and what has worked for others.


I have a small air compressor I can use to blow the water out. I have the hot water tank by pass and the antifreeze pickup by the pump.


I'd prefer to just blow the lines out and skip the antifreeze if I can. If the antifreeze is required then I'd use it. Seems like it worth going with just the air the first year to see how it works for me.


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Old 10-03-2019, 09:34 PM   #16
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Propylene glycol is a substance commonly used as a food additive or ingredient in many cosmetic and hygiene products.The US and European food authorities have declared it as generally safe for use in foods.
However, it has become controversial since it is also an ingredient in antifreeze. This had led to health concerns about possible toxic effects from eating foods that contain it.
This article investigates what propylene glycol is, why it is used and whether it is dangerous to your health.

What Is Propylene Glycol?




Propylene glycol is a synthetic food additive that belongs to the same chemical group as alcohol.
It is a colorless, odorless, slightly syrupy liquid that is a bit thicker than water. It has practically no taste (1Trusted Source).
Additionally, it can dissolve some substances better than water and is also good at retaining moisture. This makes it very useful as a food additive, so it can be found in a wide variety of processed foods and drinks (2).


Source: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/propylene-glycol
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
Seems like it worth going with just the air the first year to see how it works for me.
Bob

What do you consider to be a "small air compressor"? I used a six-gallon Porter Cable which can generate adequate pressure for some time.

It didn't work for me because I wasn't absolutely certain the lines were clear, whereas, when I use RV antifreeze, I can see the pink fluid come out of the taps.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Propylene glycol is a substance commonly used as a food additive or ingredient in many cosmetic and hygiene products.The US and European food authorities have declared it as generally safe for use in foods.
However, it has become controversial since it is also an ingredient in antifreeze. This had led to health concerns about possible toxic effects from eating foods that contain it.
This article investigates what propylene glycol is, why it is used and whether it is dangerous to your health.

What Is Propylene Glycol?




Propylene glycol is a synthetic food additive that belongs to the same chemical group as alcohol.
It is a colorless, odorless, slightly syrupy liquid that is a bit thicker than water. It has practically no taste (1Trusted Source).
Additionally, it can dissolve some substances better than water and is also good at retaining moisture. This makes it very useful as a food additive, so it can be found in a wide variety of processed foods and drinks (2).


Source: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/propylene-glycol

The 3 RV antifreeze products I looked at do not list any ingredients/contents etc. They do mention being flammable, and containing lubricants for valves etc.
I'm quite familiar with using chemicals, I worked in physics/chemistry labs for 35 years. Used a lot of chemicals. I'd like to minimize there use now if there are not needed.


I realize its a personal decision so I won't try to convince you not to use it as long as aren't trying to convince to use it.


Bob
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:52 PM   #19
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What do you consider to be a "small air compressor"? I used a six-gallon Porter Cable which can generate adequate pressure for some time.

It didn't work for me because I wasn't absolutely certain the lines were clear, whereas, when I use RV antifreeze, I can see the pink fluid come out of the taps.

I have a Porter cable compressor as well as a 2 HP one that I think would be over kill. I'm sure I've got enough air to do the job !


Bob
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:36 PM   #20
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Yup. That's the same compressor I had, I believe.
I'm not trying to convince anybody of anything. I just think they should have information on which to base their decision.

If they conclude that they will not eat ice cream, that's all the more for me.
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