Anode Rod Issue and a Couple of Questions - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-12-2019, 05:44 PM   #1
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Anode Rod Issue and a Couple of Questions

Getting ready for the camping season. Wanted to check out our anode rod for the hot water tank. Had a bit of trouble getting it due to severely rusted threads. The rod itself still has a lot of 'meat' on it but I'm going to change it out for a new aluminum one from Camco.

I'm going to have purchase a tap and the chase the threads on that tank. The new rod is having a hard time going in due to the rust build-up. What size is the threaded hole? It looks to be 1" NC but I need confirmation of that.

Also, I've heard that the stock water heater in the Escapes (2012 19) can be replaced with an aluminum one that doesn't require an anode rod. Has anyone done this to their trailer? I searched online but didn't find a lot of info on these heaters.

Doug
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Old 05-12-2019, 06:07 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by NuthatchBC View Post
Also, I've heard that the stock water heater in the Escapes (2012 19) can be replaced with an aluminum one that doesn't require an anode rod. Has anyone done this to their trailer? I searched online but didn't find a lot of info on these heaters.
An RV water heater with an aluminum tank would presumably be a Dometic (formerly Atwood). They are similar in size and design but probably not a direct replacement for the Suburban water heater in an Escape; Dometic sells adapter hardware to make theirs fit, but only in the 10-gallon size (Escape uses the six-gallon size, like most small trailers).

Dometic RV water heaters
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:38 PM   #3
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Sounds like I should just stick with the stock tank and take good care of the anode receiver threads

Doug
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:51 PM   #4
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Chase the threads, buy a new anode. I always buy a magnesium Camco rod. It sacrifices nicely and gives us good protection. Use Teflon tape about three or four wraps on the new one. As Baglo usually reminds, a stack of washers or quarters in the socket to “Shallow it up” ( my words) will allow better alignment of the rod threads to the heater. When you use a socket extension on your 1 1/16 socket. Easy does it when starting the rod. Back up and go again if it doesn’t go easy.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:45 AM   #5
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You don't want to chase the threads too much because anode threads are tapered. The rod is not meant to be screwed in all the way to where it bottoms out against a washer, as in a garden hose. It is meant to be screwed in until the taper makes for a good seal. Good to clean the threads, but not good to cut any any metal.
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #6
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I believe the rod is 3/4 NPT pipe thread
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:24 AM   #7
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I found a neat adapter kit with a zinc anode, it has a built in discharge, similar to your auto radiator petcock. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-NW-LE...41088702&psc=1
Anyone have any experience with one of these?
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:02 AM   #8
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Had the same rust situation with a second hand Casita.I found a wire brush small enough to fit in the hole and twisted it around and around. Then took the Dremel tool with the wire brush attachment and finished the job. Wound up with nice clean threads.

Worth a try.

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Old 05-13-2019, 09:23 AM   #9
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That’s what I did too , Ed. I had a brand new sealed up battery cable brush that I used. Now I keep it separate with my water system stuff. Can’t beat those Dremels.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:37 AM   #10
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Hello Jim.
I had one of those on my 2005 17B.It makes it easier to drain the tank.I also found a tool to grip the wings on the drain gizmo.The wings are a little soft, but yes it does work for easy emptying of the water heater.
Allan.
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