Electrical adapters

[cpaharley2008]

I agree Ron, outright negligence...

[Iowa Dave]

Your tax dollars at work. The best thing I had going when I worked for the city was electrical inspectors who delighted in finding something wrong when we applied for an occupancy permit. Their inspections were incredibly thorough and I was sure we were safe and proper before the general public and employees used any of it.
Dave

[H46Driver]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

If someone said that to me I'd have a hard time being polite. Amazing, it's such a simple fix.

Ron

Yes, to say the least I was NOT favorably impressed. She was implying that those of us who check the pedestals were nothing but a PITA.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by H46Driver

Yes, to say the least I was NOT favorably impressed. She was implying that those of us who check the pedestals were nothing but a PITA.

Yeah, pretty ridiculous. They're basically saying to you, please hook up to a system that can damage your trailer because we don't want to spend the money to correct it.

I'd find another campground.

[gbaglo]

Had to Google "problems with reverse polarity", and found this entry:

The bottom line is that reversed polarity at outlets is a shock hazard. Electronic equipment plugged in to an outlet with reversed polarity will still function properly. You can test for reversed polarity at your outlets with an inexpensive outlet tester – they cost about $5 at any home improvement store.Apr 28, 2009

One site gave examples of how reversed polarity can cause injury. If you stuck a knife into a toaster that appeared to be off, it would still be live ( or hot ). If you touched a light bulb where the base goes into the fixture, you would be zapped.
Anyway, it doesn't appear to be an issue with electrical appliances that I have in my trailer ( which is none, other than a heater ).
Still should be fixed, but I don't think it's gonna zap your trailer.
Link: http://structuretech1.com/reversed-polarity-outlets/

Awaiting Steve D's comment.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Had to Google "problems with reverse polarity", and found this entry:

The bottom line is that reversed polarity at outlets is a shock hazard. Electronic equipment plugged in to an outlet with reversed polarity will still function properly. You can test for reversed polarity at your outlets with an inexpensive outlet tester – they cost about $5 at any home improvement store.Apr 28, 2009

One site gave examples of how reversed polarity can cause injury. If you stuck a knife into a toaster that appeared to be off, it would still be live ( or hot ). If you touched a light bulb where the base goes into the fixture, you would be zapped.
Anyway, it doesn't appear to be an issue with electrical appliances that I have in my trailer ( which is none, other than a heater ).
Still should be fixed, but I don't think it's gonna zap your trailer.
Link: Reversed Polarity Outlets Structure Tech Home Inspections

Awaiting Steve D's comment.

I agree that reversed polarity alone will generally not damage appliances. For many years, electrical systems didn't observe polarity - both blades on plugs & receptacles were the same size. The problem with reversed polarity is when something else goes wrong - it can be a major problem.

For example, if there is a fault to ground, with normal polarity, the circuit breaker will open, protecting the wiring. With reversed polarity, the trailer's circuit breakers are no longer protecting the wiring (the hot is now the neutral or white wire which does not go through a circuit breaker).

Minor neutral to ground faults (such as a bad refrigerator or water heater element) are not obvious under normal polarity (unless plugged into a GFCI, you may never realize they exist) but become hot to ground with reversed polarity. An open ground will produce 120V to the earth potential - a severe shock hazard.

[Mike Lewis]

A simple question: I can check the polarity of a 30A outlet with a multimeter, right? That is the only way I could do it now without having to buy something else.

Pardon my ignorance.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

A simple question: I can check the polarity of a 30A outlet with a multimeter, right? That is the only way I could do it now without having to buy something else.

Pardon my ignorance.

Yes , you can check polarity with a volt meter rated for testing
120 VAC . Facing the receptacle and with the equipment ground bottom center ( Round hole) The neutral slot is to the left and the line voltage slot is to the right
You should read 0 (zero) volts from the left slot to the equipment ground.
You should read approx 120 VAC from the right slot to the equipment ground.
You should read approx 120 VAC between the left and right slots.

You don't need a fancy $ 400 Fluke meter to check polarity .
All you need is a cheap volt meter , or a wiggly or a neon tester or a pin socket and lamp or your 2 fingers on one hand. ( An old electrician method when you don't have a voltage tester.)
They make an induction voltage tester that reads through insulation .You touch the end of the tester against a hot conductor / receptacle slot and it glows red telling you it's hot. The tester has no exposed metal parts and a zero learning curve.

.

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Yes , you can check polarity with a volt meter rated for testing
120 VAC . Facing the receptacle and with the equipment ground bottom center ( Round hole) The neutral slot is to the left and the line voltage slot is to the right
You should read 0 (zero) volts from the left slot to the equipment ground.
You should read approx 120 VAC from the right slot to the equipment ground.
You should read approx 120 VAC between the left and right slots.

You don't need a fancy $ 400 Fluke meter to check polarity .
All you need is a cheap volt meter , or a wiggly or a neon tester or a pin socket and lamp or your 2 fingers on one hand.

.

Thanks. Just what I needed to know.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I agree that reversed polarity alone will generally not damage appliances. For many years, electrical systems didn't observe polarity - both blades on plugs & receptacles were the same size. The problem with reversed polarity is when something else goes wrong - it can be a major problem.

For example, if there is a fault to ground, with normal polarity, the circuit breaker will open, protecting the wiring. With reversed polarity, the trailer's circuit breakers are no longer protecting the wiring (the hot is now the neutral or white wire which does not go through a circuit breaker).

Minor neutral to ground faults (such as a bad refrigerator or water heater element) are not obvious under normal polarity (unless plugged into a GFCI, you may never realize they exist) but become hot to ground with reversed polarity. An open ground will produce 120V to the earth potential - a severe shock hazard.

Yes, learned about that situation when I was a kid and my dad had a table saw with that situation. Worked OK, but touching the table gave you a tingle.

Ron

[Rockhead]

Mmmm don't need a fancy fluke meter so should I throw mine away n go buy a cheap KMart blue lite special ����������

Jk jk ����������

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Rockhead

Mmmm don't need a fancy fluke meter so should I throw mine away n go buy a cheap KMart blue lite special ����������

Jk jk ����������

Or look for the Harbor Freight ads. With any purchase at regular price, they give away stuff like cheapee VOM's.

I've got one of theirs in the trailer tool box that's good to within about a tenth of a volt, as compared to my $$$ Fluke meter. Certainly good enough for diagnosis of problems during camping!

[CharlesPou]

I know old thread, but found it with search, and helped me out. My issue is related to having removable cord now (2018 Escape 21). Previous trailer (2004 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe) had attached power cord. Removable vs attached both have pluses and minuses, but overall I like the removable power cord better.

However, I'm starting to get nervous about the removable power cord disappearing in the future. I already have 25' extension, and was looking for an adapter to somehow make the 25' extension work as a spare removable power cord.

Looked and looked, finally found adapter (LeisureCords Trailer dogbone power cord plug adapter 30 amp male to 30 amp female locking connector with LED power Indicator approx $20), or buy another 25' removable power cord (Camco Heavy Duty PowerGrip 25' Cord with 30 AMP Male Standard/30 AMP Female Locking Adapter- Threaded Locking Ring Ensures a Weatherproof Connection (55501) approx $55). I decided to go cheap and get the adapter.

One thing I learned in my quest and reading this thread was the trailer side connection is twist lock. It was never explained to me, so I didn't know. I thought it was push on and locked with screw on coupler/ nut. Actually, one of the male prongs (one with curve) is slightly loose. That was concerning me a little, then I really got concerned when I notice whole plug would rotate, so I thought the whole thing was falling apart. Now I know is supposed to twist and lock in place, good to know lols.

Tonight I figured out maybe all is well. :-)

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

I know old thread, but found it with search, and helped me out. My issue is related to having removable cord now (2018 Escape 21). Previous trailer (2004 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe) had attached power cord. Removable vs attached both have pluses and minuses, but overall I like the removable power cord better.

However, I'm starting to get nervous about the removable power cord disappearing in the future. I already have 25' extension, and was looking for an adapter to somehow make the 25' extension work as a spare removable power cord.

Looked and looked, finally found adapter (LeisureCords Trailer dogbone power cord plug adapter 30 amp male to 30 amp female locking connector with LED power Indicator approx $20), or buy another 25' removable power cord (Camco Heavy Duty PowerGrip 25' Cord with 30 AMP Male Standard/30 AMP Female Locking Adapter- Threaded Locking Ring Ensures a Weatherproof Connection (55501) approx $55). I decided to go cheap and get the adapter.

One thing I learned in my quest and reading this thread was the trailer side connection is twist lock. It was never explained to me, so I didn't know. I thought it was push on and locked with screw on coupler/ nut. Actually, one of the male prongs (one with curve) is slightly loose. That was concerning me a little, then I really got concerned when I notice whole plug would rotate, so I thought the whole thing was falling apart. Now I know is supposed to twist and lock in place, good to know lols.

Tonight I figured out maybe all is well. :-)

I went through the same with my last E19 and decided on not having a removable 30 amp set up and decided on a removable 15 amp cord which will be used most of the time unless a/c is needed. then the 30 amp cord will be utilized. Pictures to follow later.

[TZBrown]

These work pretty well, when you don't need the 30A power, or want to keep your heavy cord out of the UV exposure
https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-691...eywords=l5+30r

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

One thing I learned in my quest and reading this thread was the trailer side connection is twist lock. It was never explained to me, so I didn't know. I thought it was push on and locked with screw on coupler/ nut.

That's a really awkward feature of both 30-amp (120 V) and 50-amp (240 V) connections used for detachable power cords on RVs. They use industry standard twist-lock connectors, but those connectors are not weatherproof at all, so in RV use an additional cover is added. The cover can be threaded or bayonet-locked, but in any case the way the system works is to twist-lock the actual connecter then connect the cover; the result is lots of people pushing the connector in but not locking it, and expecting the cover to keep it all together. Overall, it's a terrible design, but it's the RV world's standard.

Some people have installed their own connector set, using the superior (but expensive) SmartPlug design... but the old style still works, once you realize how it works.

[John in Santa Cruz]

the NEMA L5-30 twistlock plug isn't very secure, the outer locking ring holds it much more securely.

here's one with the locking ring...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VVZHK6..._t2_B076BHP37W

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

the NEMA L5-30 twistlock plug isn't very secure, the outer locking ring holds it much more securely.

They're secure enough for industrial and commercial applications, and for boats in marinas (which is where the term "shore power" comes from)... but apparently not secure enough for recreational users.

[John in Santa Cruz]

as I understand it, these ring-locked outlets are a marine thing.

[Ticamin]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

the NEMA L5-30 twistlock plug isn't very secure, the outer locking ring holds it much more securely.

here's one with the locking ring...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VVZHK6..._t2_B076BHP37W

This is indeed a really helpful one. Thanks