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Old 08-14-2019, 08:43 AM   #1
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First impressions 17B

We picked up our 17B on July 18th and towed it home (6000 Kim's), arriving here a week ago.
Overall very impressed with the trailer, the staff and Escape Industries. It appears to be well made. Tows very well, comfortable. We got the double bed option, great mattress.

The AC is a bit noisy but found once the trailer cooled off it didn't run that much. It was 94* out, but we had the addition insulation and thermal windows, that probably helps. Plus we were advised by Escape to run the fan on "auto" to reduce sound level.

The refrigerator has a noisy fan that turns on once the outside temps go above 90*. I see there is a mod to change that fan out for a quieter pair. I may do that.

Two items that I'll be changing are the battery disconnect switch and the position of the display for the surge protector.

The issues with the battery disconnect switch have already been identified on this forum. I've ordered a rotary battery disconnect switch and I'll replace it as soon as it arrives.

The issue with the surge protector display are two fold. I turned the switch off 3 times over a couple of weeks by brushing it with my leg when seated in the dinette. It's not obvious it's been accidentally turned off. I need to get on my hands and knees under the table to look at the display to see that. I don't know why an important display can only be read by crawling under the dining table. The display has a long cable so it could have easily been mounted in a better location.

My first modifications to the trailer will be to move that display, and add the new battery switch.

The solar controller is ok but the SOC display is based on battery voltage. Turning on any load drops the % charge by 5 or 6%. I'll replace this controller and install a battery monitor next.

Bob
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:37 AM   #2
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Interesting, I have never accidentally turned off my EMS display, maybe tape the switch would be simpler. The disconnect is back in the corner and has never been off in my last 3 Escapes. Maybe sit on the other side of the dinette?
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:45 AM   #3
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First impressions 17B

The standard-issue battery disconnect got shut off routinely in our 17B (small kids with short, wiggly legs). So we had ETI put in a recessed, marine-style disconnect when we got our 19.

IMG_2038.jpg

Never had an issue with EMS getting switched off in either trailer. I’d also try tape over the switch first.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:18 AM   #4
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Used to have ours get knocked fairly often, a few years back I took the cheap route.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:48 AM   #5
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Used to have ours get knocked fairly often, a few years back I took the cheap route.
We like your 'cheap route'...do you by chance have a link for the plastic protector? Thanks in advance. -Bea
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
We picked up our 17B on July 18th and towed it home (6000 Kim's), arriving here a week ago.
Overall very impressed with the trailer, the staff and Escape Industries. It appears to be well made. Tows very well, comfortable. We got the double bed option, great mattress.

The AC is a bit noisy but found once the trailer cooled off it didn't run that much. It was 94* out, but we had the addition insulation and thermal windows, that probably helps. Plus we were advised by Escape to run the fan on "auto" to reduce sound level.

The refrigerator has a noisy fan that turns on once the outside temps go above 90*. I see there is a mod to change that fan out for a quieter pair. I may do that.

Two items that I'll be changing are the battery disconnect switch and the position of the display for the surge protector.

The issues with the battery disconnect switch have already been identified on this forum. I've ordered a rotary battery disconnect switch and I'll replace it as soon as it arrives.

The issue with the surge protector display are two fold. I turned the switch off 3 times over a couple of weeks by brushing it with my leg when seated in the dinette. It's not obvious it's been accidentally turned off. I need to get on my hands and knees under the table to look at the display to see that. I don't know why an important display can only be read by crawling under the dining table. The display has a long cable so it could have easily been mounted in a better location.

My first modifications to the trailer will be to move that display, and add the new battery switch.

The solar controller is ok but the SOC display is based on battery voltage. Turning on any load drops the % charge by 5 or 6%. I'll replace this controller and install a battery monitor next.

Bob
Bob you are not alone ,a lot of us have bitched about these items . You will love the rotary switch and moving it . We left our surge where it is but it was many times shut off and we didn’t know It . I used a heat gun and made a cover with clear acrylic. It bent very easy over a 2by 4 piece of wood .left a space if needed to slide with say a butter knife etc. If interested let me know I will get you a picture .
Victron controllers and battery monitors are what we installed in our trailer . Pat
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:57 PM   #7
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We like your 'cheap route'...do you by chance have a link for the plastic protector? Thanks in advance. -Bea
I'll bet he made it.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:57 PM   #8
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We like your 'cheap route'...do you by chance have a link for the plastic protector? Thanks in advance. -Bea
Bea very easy to make with a heat gun to bend plastic over a piece of wood . Drill hole in center . Maybe a little sanding to shape . First saw Myron made one then I copied his . When I replaced switch I gave my old one to Myron at Quartsite . Pat
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:42 PM   #9
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correct, cut to size, drill hole, heat with a heat gun, bend around a board in a vise, sand.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:51 PM   #10
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Thank you padlin, rubicon327 and Pat! We will give it a try! Yours looks professionally made. Ours will probably look a little more like 'Hey Bubba - look what I made' .....

And thanks to Lanark Camper for your post - a quieter refrigerator fan was not on our radar. Great ideas here. Thanks everyone! -Bea
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
We picked up our 17B on July 18th and towed it home (6000 Kim's), arriving here a week ago....
My first modifications to the trailer will be to move that display, and add the new battery switch.........

Bob,
On our 17, we moved the display as well. It just fit, around the corner. I had to add a screw with a pad on it, for a door stop for the adjacent cabinet door below the sink, so the door wouldn't mash the display.

BTW: To cover the existing hole, I added a 120V GFCI receptacle on a new 20A circuit. We use the dedicated circuit to run an electric heater when we're camping in cold weather at a site with shore power.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:23 PM   #12
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Bob,
On our 17, we moved the display as well. It just fit, around the corner. I had to add a screw with a pad on it, for a door stop for the adjacent cabinet door below the sink, so the door wouldn't mash the display.

BTW: To cover the existing hole, I added a 120V GFCI receptacle on a new 20A circuit. We use the dedicated circuit to run an electric heater when we're camping in cold weather at a site with shore power.

Nice solutions...an extra 110V outlet would be handy....thanks......on our 17B the display is on the passenger side under the two person dinette table at the front of the trailer. Around the corner for mine is in the clothes closet !



I'll see how long the cable is that came with the display. Its all bundled up with wire ties under the seat. If it's long enough to move it up to eye level I'll do it. I'd like to be able to see how much AC current we are drawing.


The youtube video showing the refrigerator quiet fan upgrade is here,


https://youtu.be/anyj1JbWMGo



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Old 08-14-2019, 10:39 PM   #13
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Don, can I ask what the footman's loops are used for? Thanks.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:40 PM   #14
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Battery disconnect switch drives me crazy too! Between a 6 year old, two small dogs and U-shaped dinette it gets hit often.

At work we use a switch similar to this to prevent someone from inadvertently placing the train in emergency so I may go that route or just get a low profile rocker switch.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:41 PM   #15
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The refrigerator has a noisy fan that turns on once the outside temps go above 90*. I see there is a mod to change that fan out for a quieter pair. I may do that.
Might I suggest you look into high quality ball bearing fans. They are quiet and move a large volume of air. If you get the IP55 rated they are made to handle a wet environment. They aren’t cheap but they are much better than an inferior computer fan. This is what I have but there are many others. To see similar fans click on the catalog page # just under the product title.

https://www.grainger.com/product/31C...2ff4eebf48c7bb
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:20 PM   #16
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Battery disconnect switch drives me crazy too! Between a 6 year old, two small dogs and U-shaped dinette it gets hit often.

At work we use a switch similar to this to prevent someone from inadvertently placing the train in emergency so I may go that route or just get a low profile rocker switch.
Keep in mind how many amps are going through that switch. Most of the toggle switches are rated at 30 amps at most - that's no where near what the 12v panel can pull.

That's why a number of people switching out that on/off switch go to a battery switch that can handle the current.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:36 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Keep in mind how many amps are going through that switch. Most of the toggle switches are rated at 30 amps at most - that's no where near what the 12v panel can pull.

That's why a number of people switching out that on/off switch go to a battery switch that can handle the current.
Good to know, I had 12V on the brain only and didn't even think about the amp rating. Is it correct just to add the rating of each fuse to give a "not less than" amp rating for that switch or am I missing another part of the equation?

Not opposed to using a disconnect by any means either so I'll look into those.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:46 PM   #18
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Good to know, I had 12V on the brain only and didn't even think about the amp rating. Is it correct just to add the rating of each fuse to give a "not less than" amp rating for that switch or am I missing another part of the equation?

Not opposed to using a disconnect by any means either so I'll look into those.
I went with this one - rated for 300 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a link to a pic of the one Ron(Ron in BC) installed:
What is this switch in the dinette?
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Old 08-15-2019, 02:38 PM   #19
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Might I suggest you look into high quality ball bearing fans. They are quiet and move a large volume of air. If you get the IP55 rated they are made to handle a wet environment. They aren’t cheap but they are much better than an inferior computer fan. This is what I have but there are many others. To see similar fans click on the catalog page # just under the product title.

https://www.grainger.com/product/31C...2ff4eebf48c7bb

thanks, very good looking product, only a 1/2 A draw, and waterproof, plus I can order it from Acklands-Grainger in Canada

I assume you just used one ?


Bob
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:59 PM   #20
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Here is a pic of my simple solution for the battery disconnect (although this works it may not be a permanent solution). I took a pill container, cut the end off with a Dremel tool then drilled a hole in the top so it would fit over the threads of the switch. It's just the two of us and no pets so no-one else to accidentally turn the switch off.

Steve
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