Ron's Top 10 Mods

[Ron in BC]

Yes, I also have a boss who tells me how its going to be.

I'm thinking that the obscure plastic film is a bit of a throw back to the old days before the heavily tinted windows became standard.

Ron

[h2owmn]

Ron, I like the sill you made...I want to do similar in my bench seat door. I might try to use plastic flexible cutting board, because the bins I have in there are cloth.

I'm with you on seeing out the front window. In cold weather, I use reflectix on the inside of the window at night...just clothespin it to the bottom black tabs near the clear blinds knob. Then I lower the blinds. I sleep right under that window, and very rarely have condensation on the window in the morning...which I wipe with a dishtowel. Not as elegant as your solution, of course, but it works for me.

Re the window in the door...I took off the adhesive piece. I put curtains over the window--a piece of insulated curtain I had from another project. I also cut a piece of thin foam camping pad to fit and I can press it into the frame agains the window on cold days/nights. Since I have windows front and back on that side, I don't remove it, but I could, to see if the boogeyman was there.

Thanks for posting all these great ideas.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Yes, I also have a boss who tells me how its going to be.

I'm thinking that the obscure plastic film is a bit of a throw back to the old days before the heavily tinted windows became standard.

Ron

I just did the Ron Mod for the door window, definitely an improvement.

[dunnet]

I was just at the lumber store and noticed these, Im not sure if there are smaller sizes that would work for the door.

[Ron in BC]

Small mod but from our point of view, indispensable. We used to do CruiseAmerica deliveries as a way of seeing places in the US that we were unlikely to take our trailer to.

What surprised us, despite their huge experience of renting RVs, was how poorly they equipped they were. Full size kitchen but not a place to hang a tea towel.

So I fabricated three towel holders, one for the front of the sink and two for the bathroom door. Commercial ones are likely available but I had two considerations.

One, I didn't want the kitchen one to project out too far. Mine is a little more shallow than a commercial one.

Two, the bars have to fit inside the door opening and also be attached towards the outer edge of the door. So a little bit of care is needed in their placement.

3/8" ss tube works really well and could be used with with wood blocks in lieu of welding ss brackets on.

Ron

[MrLynn]

Nice. I'd have to use wood, as I don't have the capability to weld brackets on. Actually, wood dowels would work, too.

[Ron in BC]

Stainless steel is easy to keep clean and shiny.

You could do a hybrid, ss tube with wood brackets.

Ron

[MimStan]

I've done the interior storm window mod on the front rock guard window, and door window on our 17b as well, but used high temperature resistant 3M VHB tape to adhere the plexiglass panes. Both panes have held successfully for years with no problems. The VHB tape makes a very airtight seal.

[Ron in BC]

More than one way to skin a cat. Bet that saying makes cat lovers cringe.

Glad to hear that you haven't had any interior condensation.

Ron

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by WillyB

I'm trying to convince the boss on removing the plastic film but she keeps reminding me about who's the boss.

Remove the film but replace it with fake stained glass with a pattern that lets you peek out. It makes seeing out that window before you open the door possible (I have it on my front door) but still offers privacy (in the 17b you get out of the shower right in front of that window...)

[Beekeeper]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I'm so used to seeing obscure glass in housing in areas like house bathroom windows that I didn't realize that the "obscure" glass in the door window was really clear glass. I like to be able to see out any windows that I have so when I discovered that it was only an obscure plastic film on clear glass, off it came. Quick and easy.

From the exterior there's still complete privacy and at night it's still hard to see in. We made a curtain but don't use it much. Maybe if we were in a high density campground.

Since the glass is single glazed it seemed like a good time to install a plexiglass insert. Heat saving is likely small and sound proofing increase also, but every bit helps.

Ron

This was our solution to the window in the door with the cheap plastic covering which we didn't like.

[Ooshkaboo]

I'm getting more and more keeping it simple.

I had this left over and with furnace ductwork tape, which sticks like crazy, it works.

[Ooshkaboo]

I always try and put something underneath sinks that prevents pipes and lines from getting bumped. Most of my leaks start out from people pushing items inside overloaded sink cabinets. Anything helps…

[Camp@Home]

Found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Helps to keep from bumping (and provide adequate room) with a slide out wire drawer under sink on E19: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Selkirk]

Originally Posted by dunnet

I was just at the lumber store and noticed these, Im not sure if there are smaller sizes that would work for the door.

That is a insert designed for a residential entry door. The blinds are sandwiched between glass panes (there is a roughly a 3/4" airspace). As far as I know, they are only manufactured by a couple of different suppliers and availability is limited to a few standard sizes (22x36, 22x48, 20x64, 20x80 are the most common).

I don't think you will find blinds like this offered on RV-style windows or doors. Even if the window was double glazed, the airspace would be far too narrow.

However, I did notice that Lippert offers door inserts with interior shade kits that might be compatible:

https://www.amazon.ca/Lippert-Compon...25066427&psc=1

[brroberts]

There is this door window option. I don’t know anything about it.

https://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/r...-kit/index.php

https://www.recpro.com/rv-entry-door-window-shade/

[dcgrout]

Hi Ron - I am most interested in how you re-located your spare tire under the A-frame of your 21. I have a 22 21C, and would like to do the same. Did you mount the winch on the floor of the Escape supplied fiberglass front storage box? Doesn't seem like the floor would support that much weight, especially over time and rough roads. What are the commercially available winches you refer to? The only ones I have found that seem applicable are replacement winches for pick up truck spare tire systems, and they appear to mount the opposite direction of what would be needed with your floor mounted design. Am I looking at the right part? I would love to see more pictures. What is the last picture depicting with the locking pins? It is pretty dark and I am not sure what I am looking at with regards to the spare tire mount you did. Thanks. Dave in Edmonds, WA;.

[DGLP]

Originally Posted by brroberts

There is this door window option. I don’t know anything about it.

https://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/r...-kit/index.php

https://www.recpro.com/rv-entry-door-window-shade/

We didn't find anything online (blind/curtain) that would fit the 21 NE. I'd rather not mess with removing and replacing the existing window. We designed and made our own blackout shade, with the assistance of a friend and about $10 of material. It drops into place perfectly.

[Ron in BC]

Full disclosure: I've never liked the look of rear boxes.

When Jim B. brought his 5.0TA to Baja I looked at his custom box and saw that it was a very practical way of gaining extra storage space. In his case the box was a custom size the interior holding items and his bikes carried on top, not dangling off the rear.

What finally prompted me to make a rear box was primarily our zero gravity chairs. They're our #1 camping accessory. Sure, there was lots of room in the back of the F150 but, with a box cover, they'd end up laying down flat and then other stuff would get piled on top. It made quick access difficult.

So I found this rear carrier that was the right size to make a box to carry the zero gravity chairs, directors chairs and some kayak stuff. Quick direct access that allows us to pull them out even if we're only stopping for a break.

There were two key dimensions. One, the rack had to be long enough for the chairs but not too long to obscure the trailer lights. Second, the constructed box had to be tall enough to stand the chairs on edge.

Construction is very easy and only requires basic tools.

I first made the top using the base as a template. Then vertical sides attached to the base and the lip on the top. Because of the curved corners the box is very strong and didn't need any additional structure.

I made locking doors that are fairly secure. I added a couple of interior straps to keep the contents from moving around.

The spare tire was removed and under mounted up front under the tongue. 70lbs. off the rear and an all-up weight with the new box and contents of about 100lbs. Net gain of weight at the rear is about 30lbs. No problem.

When I was fabricating the top I noticed that it was about the size of my portable flexible solar panel. My panel already had a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum frame on it. I hoist the portable up in the air to get maximum solar input. So I made a couple of quick release brackets and the solar panel now rides on top of the box and plugged in rather than not doing anything riding in the back of the truck. So now it works in 3 different ways.

In practice it has been perfect. I thought that I would have to remove it at home because of space considerations. Haven't had to that. Bonus. But then when I had a 19 I didn't think that I'd ever be able to get anything larger than a 19 in that spot.

As far as fitting in campsites goes it's never been an issue. Very glad that I overcame my initial reluctance to have one.

Ron

[Ron in BC]

Also a good place for the decals that my wife wouldn't let me put on the trailer.

Ron