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Old 11-01-2017, 05:19 PM   #1
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draining water heater

what do you use to get the plug on water heater open -pull anoid to drain water heater? i couldn't get it out
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:23 PM   #2
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You remove the anode with a 1 1/16 socket with an extension to reach.
Anode is bottom centre. Pressure relief valve is top centre. You could open the pressure relief valve first by flipping the lever to relieve any pressure.
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File Type: jpg anode relief valve.jpg (178.6 KB, 42 views)
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:26 PM   #3
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thanks i tried to use pliers but it didn't budge i didn't have a big enough socket. i will go buy one!
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
You remove the anode with a 1 1/16 socket with an extension to reach.
Anode is bottom centre. Pressure relief valve is top centre. You could open the pressure relief valve first by flipping the lever to relieve any pressure.

Make sure you relieve the pressure before you remove the anode.
The loud pop and an object rapidly exiting the heater compartment followed by a splash of water is startling.
Not that I have ever done it
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:29 PM   #5
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yup already did when i tried to open it the first time! thanks for all the advice!
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:39 PM   #6
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Anode removal

A breaker bar with your new socket will most likely back the anode out. If it seems extremely tight you might try to put some penetrating fluid on the threads overnight. Once out, make sure you clean any corrosion off of the water heater threads and if the anode is also ok to use next season, clean the anode threads up too. Then when you reinstall, use about
4 wraps of Teflon tape so it will come out easier next time. That’s my advice. An extension and a shallow socket works better than a deep socket for me.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:40 PM   #7
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yup already did when i tried to open it the first time! thanks for all the advice!
If you are used to other brands you can open the low point drains which relieves the pressure along with draining the lines. Escape does not have them. And you might not know escape has a check valve hidden in the works I assume to keep the hot water from moving out of the heater. It's secondary purpose is the keep the hot water tank pressurized so you can have a bit of excitement if you do not bleed the pressure off.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:53 PM   #8
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Stand back, you'll fill your shoes

When you re-install the rod, you only need to make it tight enough to not leak. No need for a torque wrench...
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:07 PM   #9
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And, when you are examining the anode, this pic illustrates good and bad.
I replaced mine after eight years. Not sure I needed to. Others have had to replace after six months, depending on water in area.
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File Type: png Good anode bad anode.png (82.9 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Anode 09 2016.jpg (157.5 KB, 22 views)
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:19 PM   #10
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Stand back, you'll fill your shoes

When you re-install the rod, you only need to make it tight enough to not leak. No need for a torque wrench...
If you have a torque wrench set it at 8 foot pounds and you are good to go.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:22 PM   #11
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thanks i tried to use pliers but it didn't budge i didn't have a big enough socket. i will go buy one!
Definitely a worthy addition to your tool kit. Not expensive, yet indispensable for the job.
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When you re-install the rod, you only need to make it tight enough to not leak. No need for a torque wrench...
Sage advice. All too often folks tighten plumbing fittings with either pipe dope or tape way too much.
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:19 PM   #12
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Stand back, you'll fill your shoes


Yeah, found that out myself. Six gallons of water through a 1 inch hole goes quite aways......
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:30 PM   #13
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I remove mine, store it inside and install a cork in the hole in the heater until springtime.
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:39 PM   #14
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Easy does it

Overtightening is often a concern. 8 lbs torque would be lighter than most 1/2 inch drive click stop wrenches would read. A beam type would probably work but as for most applications just snug it up and you’ll be good. 8 lbs for me would be “finger tight” 😜😜😜
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
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... make sure you clean any corrosion off of the water heater threads ...
Has anyone ever run a thread tap into the anode hole to deep clean (get rid of rust) and re-thread the female threads on the water heater? And if so, what size tap does the trick?
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:42 PM   #16
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Cleanup

Quote:
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Has anyone ever run a thread tap into the anode hole to deep clean (get rid of rust) and re-thread the female threads on the water heater? And if so, what size tap does the trick?
I’ve never used a tap but I have a new battery cable cleaner that I use on dirty threads or bolts. Seems to work is not too agessive.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:47 PM   #17
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If you can't find a shallow 1 1/16" socket, stuffing a bunch of quarters in the socket makes it much easier to start the anode bolt back into the tank...
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:59 PM   #18
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Dang, I just bought a 27mm (1.0629") deepwell socket for $4.49 from Harbor Freight. It's going to take a ton of quarters to fill up that thing!
Thought it was a good deal at the time; even got another free flashlight...
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:06 PM   #19
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Dang, I just bought a 27mm (1.0629") deepwell socket for $4.49 from Harbor Freight. It's going to take a ton of quarters to fill up that thing!
Thought it was a good deal at the time; even got another free flashlight...
It'll work just fine. I restart them with my fingers... Dave you listenin'?
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:19 PM   #20
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Dang, It's going to take a ton of quarters to fill up that thing!
You could use Canadian quarters.
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