Keeping the fridge door closed during travel - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-24-2014, 10:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by sjnuss View Post
There are only 4 small holes that could easily be filled if needed. Not sure of the specific marine term but here is another perspective to show it a little better.

Looks like a very small cabinet door handle might work too....will have to troll Home Depot and see what they have....not many marine stores here in the middle of New Mexico...
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:30 AM   #22
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Something like this would work..it's designed for webbing....
Footman's Loop

Edit update: They are indeed called Footman's Loops and are specifically for tying down with webbing straps!
Found them at Strapworks.com and was able to order them in sandstone so they will blend into the woodgrain. Cost about $1.30 each (includes a .50 upcharge for color) and $3 shipping. Might do a similar arrangement for the bathroom door.
Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:18 AM   #23
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gbaglo, the holes go away when the cheese is gone!
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:03 PM   #24
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I found this strap set up in the boating section of the local sporting goods store. Works great!
I believe I found the exact thing on amazon: Amazon.com: Attwood Gas Tank Hold Down Strap: Sports & Outdoors

We haven't had trouble with our fridge door despite many a washboard road, but I tend towards better safe than sorry and am definitely considering it, even with the hefty shipping charge.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:08 PM   #25
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I believe I found the exact thing on amazon: Amazon.com: Attwood Gas Tank Hold Down Strap: Sports & Outdoors

We haven't had trouble with our fridge door despite many a washboard road, but I tend towards better safe than sorry and am definitely considering it, even with the hefty shipping charge.

That would do it! I opted to buy the hold-downs (Footman Loops) and the straps from strapworks.com and got the loops colored to match the woodgrain. Plus enough extras to do the bathroom door. Will post pictures after it is all done.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:09 PM   #26
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I'd take care that the metal buckle doesn't abrade the fridge finish. The bungees that I have have plastic hooks and don't seem to be a problem. I'm sure you can get plastic buckles.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:16 PM   #27
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I'd take care that the metal buckle doesn't abrade the fridge finish. The bungees that I have have plastic hooks and don't seem to be a problem. I'm sure you can get plastic buckles.
The webbing that I ordered has plastic side release buckles. BUT, if the Amazon/Atwood belt is used the buckle can be positioned in the middle of the fridge and there will also be one thickness of the strap between it and the fridge so I think it will be ok. The original picture posted shows it that way.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:25 PM   #28
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The webbing is doubled up when you use that kit, and the buckle is on the outer layer of webbing, so would not be in contact with the door.

It looks like a nice simple solution, and not too pricey at all.

We never strap our door shut, and only once on bad washboard did we have it come open. We did have the catch fail a couple times, until I did a permanent (to date) fix on it. The pivot pin on it kept sliding out, and not latching.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:27 PM   #29
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Hi FMLNM,
What size of screws do you use? Do you have to buy them seperately or they come with the Footman's loop? Thanks.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #30
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Hi FMLNM,
What size of screws do you use? Do you have to buy them seperately or they come with the Footman's loop? Thanks.
The ones I ordered from Strapworks.com do not come with screws so I'll just have to see once they are delivered. The specs say the hole is .21" for the 1" loops. Might get a little bottle of model paint to paint the screw heads to match the color I ordered for the loops.
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