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Old 03-27-2021, 03:27 PM   #1
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Leak and wet wood flooring

Howdy ~
I am prepping my 15 A for a trip today and in cleaning everything noticed the front left floor storage cabinet linoleum was coming up in the corner. I felt around and sure enuf it was damp underneath. The wood is damp but not rotted. I did the same in the next 2 floor cabinets and they are the same - damp wood, not moldy or rotted.

Needless to say, I am super bummed.

I did have a new sealed gallon jug of water that leaked in the first floor cabinet. I discovered this last summer and tried to open everything up and dry it out w heater and sun.

I also found the same issue in the right rear storage under seat - but it seemed most wet at the wheel line where the reflective stuff is.



I have everything open and a space heater going to attempt to dry. Should I continue to pull all the linoleum up from the whole floor? I am taking a week trip next week and don't think that this is an immediate safety issue. I will definitely get this fixed right but would like to push on w a couple of spring trips.



I know that I need to dry it out and completely inspect to see if this recurs. Any other immediate suggestions - other than crying in to my pillow.



I live in WWW (wet Western WA) and keep her in my field well covered by a tarp. The only gear on the top is the max fan. All caulk and rubber coat looks good . Any suggestions to move forward are appreciated. I will post some pictures.

thanks.
Jane
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Old 03-27-2021, 03:46 PM   #2
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Old 03-27-2021, 06:25 PM   #3
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Check behind the belly band. I heard that if rivets are hollow they can let water in which will likely run down behind the wall covering to the floor. I would check each one and fill with proflex then replace belly band. Also check really well around windows. May need to spray around each one while someone watches inside. Make sure the lower weep holes (slots) in the window frames are clean. Condensation or water leaking into the frame can’t get out if holes are clogged.
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Old 03-27-2021, 07:32 PM   #4
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That does not look good. this looks like it been leaking for awhile. I don't think it is from the spill of the gallon of water. I think I use some rotted wood restore on the wood.Of course first you have to find the leak. as rubicon suggested. I hose my help . if you can find a external leak then i start checking inside. black tank pluming and fittings at shower drain. I see the frame bolt under dinette seat is very rusty above the flooring. Also If I correct the two pictures are from opposite sides of the trailer. I dint realize the escapes plywood is not fiberglass over like in casita.
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Old 03-27-2021, 07:42 PM   #5
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Thank you all for replies. I pulled the belly band - there are rivets in only about half the holes. Is this how it should be? Half of the holes are just waiting for water to enter. I will surely fix this. I will fill with proflex but what do I do about the holes with no rivets? Fill w proflex?

NYHillbilly - I don't have any interior plumbing other than hose to sink and drain hose to exterior (which I have inspected and am sure that is not the source of leak). I purposely try to keep it simple for the obvious reasons. :/

I will start getting this fixed and probably will pull the rest of the linoleum - inspect everything remedy any leaks or potential leaks- wait it out for awhile to make sure all is good then take in to an RV fixit place to have the linoleum replaced.

Thank you,

Jane
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Old 03-27-2021, 08:09 PM   #6
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Thank you all for replies. I pulled the belly band - there are rivets in only about half the holes. Is this how it should be? Half of the holes are just waiting for water to enter. I will surely fix this. I will fill with proflex but what do I do about the holes with no rivets? Fill w proflex?
The belly band metal comes pre-drilled, ETI just installs it. Where there's nothing but a hole, the hole doesn't go through the body. You can fill or not, your choice. With the vinyl insert off, it's more cosmetic than anything. However, if you find a rivet sheared off, you'd definitely want to replace.
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:18 AM   #7
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Thank you all for replies. I pulled the belly band - there are rivets in only about half the holes. Is this how it should be? Half of the holes are just waiting for water to enter. I will surely fix this. I will fill with proflex but what do I do about the holes with no rivets? Fill w proflex?
Can you post a couple pictures? When I get behind our belly band I will but Proflex in any spot that looks like water could enter including hollow rivets. Maybe even a dab on the face of every rivet.
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:43 AM   #8
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Quick question. If you take off the belly band for 'quality control', does it come off easily and pop back on easily and can you reinstall with the same belly band, ie. no need for a new one, right? I am a belly band ignorant. -Bea
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:59 AM   #9
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I too am belly band challenged and belly challenged in other ways. I have a hard time believing that enuf moisture/H2O could get in the rivet holes to cause my mess but I am following up on filling the rivets. I am not quite sure how to link threads but am posting belly band info here - helpful notes from IowaDave

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...17b-19762.html
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Old 03-28-2021, 11:17 AM   #10
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I too am belly band challenged and belly challenged in other ways. I have a hard time believing that enuf moisture/H2O could get in the rivet holes to cause my mess but I am following up on filling the rivets. I am not quite sure how to link threads but am posting belly band info here - helpful notes from IowaDave

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...17b-19762.html
Thank you Jane! I missed that thread. I hope you are able to get it all remedied and fixed up soon. Thanks for sharing and keep us posted! -Bea
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Old 03-28-2021, 01:04 PM   #11
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I pulled up 1/3 of the belly band and all of the rivets look like the attachment. It looks to me like they all need to be filled with profix. Thanks for any continued advice.
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Old 03-28-2021, 01:19 PM   #12
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I pulled up 1/3 of the belly band and all of the rivets look like the attachment. It looks to me like they all need to be filled with profix. Thanks for any continued advice.

I doubt that. Find something like a long, thin needle and poke in the "hole". I don't think you'll get very far.
https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/know-your-rivets/
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Old 03-28-2021, 01:53 PM   #13
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I too am belly band challenged and belly challenged in other ways. I have a hard time believing that enuf moisture/H2O could get in the rivet holes to cause my mess but I am following up on filling the rivets. I am not quite sure how to link threads but am posting belly band info here - helpful notes from IowaDave

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...17b-19762.html

I agree with you. From the looks of you damage I think your getting a far amount of water in the shell some how .I think filling the rivets with pro flex is good idea. It will eliminate that as possibility . I think you need to do a hose Test with water on all windows and lights and any holes in the shell including underneath. If you can find it with a water hose you could always spends a few hundred on a leak test.
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Old 03-28-2021, 03:18 PM   #14
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Another test method

If you can direct a shop vac blowing INTO your closed up rig (from the bath window if you have, from the stove vent, or just a window, blocked off with cardboard) and pressurize the interior, and then go around windows, vents and all other openings, misting with a water/dish soap solution....look for bubbles. This is one method of leak detection, and folks often find a leak in an area that looks sealed.

The problem with a hose test is that water moves and the leak area may not be where the water shows.


oopps! I just watched the above video AFTER posting this.
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Old 03-28-2021, 03:50 PM   #15
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I pulled up 1/3 of the belly band and all of the rivets look like the attachment. It looks to me like they all need to be filled with profix. Thanks for any continued advice.
I believe that Escape uses closed end pop rivets for the belly band.

If someone accidentally used a standard open end pop rivet, it is more likely to leak. It is amazing how much water can get through a small crack or space...
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Old 03-28-2021, 04:08 PM   #16
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Once your leak is found and the wood dry, coat it with a product such as Boat Life Git Rot penetrating epoxy. It is a very thin epoxy that will fill deteriorated wood cells. Great stuff and have used it for years on wooden boaters.
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Old 03-28-2021, 04:36 PM   #17
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What caulk product would you suggest for re caulking/resealing? Is it best to recaulk over existing or remove caulking and start fresh? Adding link here which describes caulk products
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ape-20192.html

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will be on the mission to find the leak and will definitely report back. I may not post for bit as I am headed to dry Eastern Wa next weekend to fish. I am bummed about this issue but still anxious to get out. First trip since last Sept. And.... next project is a garage!

Cheers!
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:02 PM   #18
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I believe that Escape uses closed end pop rivets for the belly band.

If someone accidentally used a standard open end pop rivet, it is more likely to leak. It is amazing how much water can get through a small crack or space...
Here is a picture of what ETI uses on belly band and a few other places . It may be some kind of blind rivet . I haven't been able to find these anywhere except the ones ETI sent me for a repair. They have a few relieve cuts in the first 1/4 inch. when compressed they form two bulges and also the diameter will expand to the hole. When you have to drill one out they will not spin like a pop rivet. I sure these have a correct name,But i been unable to find it.
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Old 04-07-2021, 10:17 AM   #19
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Fyi, I would get a dehumidifier going inside your trailer and let it run for several days to suck the moisture out.
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Old 04-07-2021, 11:34 AM   #20
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Belly Band Leaking Question

Is the bad rivet / leaking issue on only older versions of the Escape trailers? The Escape website says the two halves are "fiberglassed together at the center prior to demolding to create a seamless body construction. This eliminates any chance of water penetration ...".

If the above is correct, why would they need rivets to connect the two halves or, again, is the issue of water penetration (through bad rivets) only an issue on older models of the Escape trailers?
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