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Old 08-30-2015, 12:55 PM   #1
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Securing peeling headliner in the cupboards

While working in the rear overhead cabinets this weekend to install a radio in my 2009 Escape 19, I discovered the headliner in the rear cupboards is letting go from the fiberglass. (The headliner material runs up the walls into the cabinets, where about 6" of it has detached from heat or age.)

Any recommendations for resecuring it? I tried some contact cement recently on another Formica project for my boat, but I wasn't impressed with the stickiness of the water base stuff they sell in California nowadays. Even coating and waiting didn't develop much tack. I am thinking about some 3M spray on stuff.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 08-30-2015, 01:21 PM   #2
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3M 5200 has been touted on FiberglassRV for regluing ensolite and reflextic/rat fur.

I've never used it...
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:59 PM   #3
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Check this out. Find: (sorry it's not a hot link)

Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Problem Solving | Owners helping each other Headliner Separation and Sagging

Mine is sagging too but I'm thinking of securing it some way that leaves an airspace. The existing Reflectix and foam/vinyl is probably R 2.5 at best because there is no air space. Reflectix says 1 layer with no air gap is R 1.1.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:06 PM   #4
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Headliner Separation and Sagging

Not sure if this is what you are referring to Klem, but you just go up to the header, drag to select the address, copy and then paste into your post.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memobug View Post
While working in the rear overhead cabinets this weekend to install a radio in my 2009 Escape 19, I discovered the headliner in the rear cupboards is letting go from the fiberglass. (The headliner material runs up the walls into the cabinets, where about 6" of it has detached from heat or age.)

Any recommendations for resecuring it? I tried some contact cement recently on another Formica project for my boat, but I wasn't impressed with the stickiness of the water base stuff they sell in California nowadays. Even coating and waiting didn't develop much tack. I am thinking about some 3M spray on stuff.

Regards,

Matt
I don't know if you can get it in California, but the "real" contact cement works well. You will want to give it plenty of time to air out after gluing- it takes awhile for the smell to go away.
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:33 AM   #6
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I found this article on contact cement very interesting, it looks at the properties as well as a comparison between the solvent and water based cements.

"Water based contact cement gives off no VOCs."

"Water based contact cement actually has a higher bonding strength and can withstand higher temperatures than solvent based contact cement."

Working with Contact Cement
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:43 AM   #7
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After a couple of years of bouncing ideas off of Reace since I first reported our separation, Reace has come up with a very good solution. It involves slicing the fabric, regluing it, then gluing a channel to the fiberglass into which a T channel mechanically adheres into. I am attaching a picture Reace sent me of a recent repair.

He has tired a couple other methods and may still use some of them. He also uses a special contact cement designed for these materials, that as far as I can tell is not available in anything smaller then gallon containers and only thru wholesalers called JEF Bond 2000.

If I were anywhere near the factory I'd make an appointment and have it done there. Unfortunately we are way too far away, so now I am getting up the courage to make that cut down the middle of ours!
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File Type: jpg 003 copy.jpg (63.8 KB, 117 views)
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:20 AM   #8
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What is the channel called and where do you get it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer View Post
After a couple of years of bouncing ideas off of Reace since I first reported our separation, Reace has come up with a very good solution. It involves slicing the fabric, regluing it, then gluing a channel to the fiberglass into which a T channel mechanically adheres into. I am attaching a picture Reace sent me of a recent repair.

He has tired a couple other methods and may still use some of them. He also uses a special contact cement designed for these materials, that as far as I can tell is not available in anything smaller then gallon containers and only thru wholesalers called JEF Bond 2000.

If I were anywhere near the factory I'd make an appointment and have it done there. Unfortunately we are way too far away, so now I am getting up the courage to make that cut down the middle of ours!
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G View Post
I found this article on contact cement very interesting, it looks at the properties as well as a comparison between the solvent and water based cements.

"Water based contact cement gives off no VOCs."

"Water based contact cement actually has a higher bonding strength and can withstand higher temperatures than solvent based contact cement."

Working with Contact Cement
That may be true for some uses, but for things like foam, I've not found it suitable.

It appears this problem is more widespread than it first appeared if the factory is dealing with it and created an alternative way of installing headliner.

When I was at the factory last year I saw a person installing headliner using a can of spray adhesive. Thought, umm, don't like that, but it must be working for them, they use it so much. Now I'm wondering when mine will start to sag.

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Old 08-31-2015, 12:17 PM   #10
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So is the repair method you were sent a picture of, the way they are now being installed or is that just an after-the-fact fix? I'd kinda like to have this resolved before some point, say in June 2016...
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:57 PM   #11
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For me this would be a good excuse to go visit the PNW & points north.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:04 PM   #12
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What is the channel called and where do you get it?
Tim, Reace sent it to me to try since we have been talking about potential fixes for so long. I will take a picture of the T molding and the channel - I think they are from boat applications maybe?
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:06 PM   #13
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So is the repair method you were sent a picture of, the way they are now being installed or is that just an after-the-fact fix? I'd kinda like to have this resolved before some point, say in June 2016...
This is just for repairs. Knowing Reace I am sure he has already made modifications to their methods to help prevent this happening again.

It seems to be a problem that is probably fairly rare
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:21 PM   #14
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Thanks. I may need to be tracking it down also. I wonder if it is happening more to trailers traveling in hotter destinations.

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Tim, Reace sent it to me to try since we have been talking about potential fixes for so long. I will take a picture of the T molding and the channel - I think they are from boat applications maybe?
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:14 PM   #15
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Thanks. I may need to be tracking it down also.
It looks a lot like the molding used to cover the joint between two pieces of arborite.

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Old 08-31-2015, 03:26 PM   #16
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Here are pictures - stuff is hard to photograph, sorry for the quality. I think the T strip is the same as the one used around the edges of our countertop and should be easy to find. The channel it snaps into is one I have not seen before.
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File Type: jpg DSCN0508.jpg (189.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0513.jpg (163.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0512.jpg (109.8 KB, 17 views)
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:01 PM   #17
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Thanks. I may need to be tracking it down also. I wonder if it is happening more to trailers traveling in hotter destinations.
Our 2014 19' took one trip south with 105f weather and it's loose above the dinette. Above the bed I think the solar panel gave enough protection that it's still tight there.

I like this solution, thanks for sharing the pictures!
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:23 PM   #18
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:36 PM   #19
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:37 PM   #20
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Hot pink -- now there is a customization idea!
I chose that colour for the link special for the good folk around here.
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