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Old 02-14-2016, 11:33 AM   #41
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The fresh water tank drain fitting on my trailer is easily removed. This provides a much better outflow rate when draining the tank. My white walled tank is not insulated so light passes through and things grow in there if potable water is stored too long.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:48 AM   #42
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The fresh water tank drain fitting on my trailer is easily removed. This provides a much better outflow rate when draining the tank. My white walled tank is not insulated so light passes through and things grow in there if potable water is stored too long.
another reason for the foam spray.....
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:50 PM   #43
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I agree apart from the bleach concentration the difference between CDC's recommendations and ETI's seems to be contact time. I haven't seen a leading Health Organizations recommend lower dilutions with longer contact times. Bleach works by oxidizing cell membranes which is a fairly rapid process and perhaps the longer time allows the bleach to penetrate organic material. It would be great if ETI provided a reference to refer to.

I would NOT attempt to neutralize bleach with vinegar as it can produce chlorine gas. Flushing with water is more than adequate.

There are significant differences in amounts of bleach needed to sterilize water to drink, needed to sanitize a water container/tank, or inhibit growth of micro-organisms in public water systems.
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:58 PM   #44
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Gordon - what would you recommend for amounts of bleach to use?
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:02 PM   #45
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The problem with small amounts of bleach ( chlorine ) for a longer time is that the chlorine dissipates with time and exposure to air.
There is chlorine in our municipal water, which is why I fill the coffee maker the night before and why we keep a jug of water in the fridge.

I'm curious why the desire to find answers other than those provided by a university or the Center for Disease Control.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:08 PM   #46
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I think another problem with longer exposure to a bleach solution would be that it can damage some seals and especially rubber if left to soak for long periods.

And Glenn you're right - those are two reliable sources. I think the questions come from the fact that some sanitation concentrations mentioned are for food preparation surfaces rather than killing off the potential biofilms that can form in pipes and containers that are constantly moist. At least that's what I'm confused about.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:45 PM   #47
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We once had problem with kitchen sink . It stunk really bad . The reason I think in a effort to be careful with water usage , very little went down sink . It also was very hot . I had to take elbow apart and clean it out , run bleach solution down sink . That seemed to take care of problem . Now put some bleach solution every once in awhile in sink . If had running water with hookups there wasn't a problem . Now at home it also is becoming a problem if not much water is running down sink in effort to conserve . Not enough water to flush down drains I think . Pat
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Old 02-14-2016, 03:02 PM   #48
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Yes, you have to keep your p traps lubricated or switch to the Hepvo valve.
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:07 PM   #49
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In my Brewery I utilize a product called Iodophor. A water based iodine product. I much prefer this to chlorine / Clorox
as a sanitizer. Dr. Paul Stammets from fungi perfecti informed
us at a seminar that if you can see the amber color in the water
that there is enough concentration to achieve sanitation.
I am not certain how this affects biofilms that were previously
mentioned.

I do know that some municipalities use iodine based sanitation
for water systems.

It is great for sanitizing ss beer kegs and is a no rinse solution
when used in correct concentrations. I use it without fear.
I use it for shocking our house water well also.

It can however cause plastic vessels to obtain an amber tint.
YMMV
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:30 PM   #50
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I think another problem with longer exposure to a bleach solution would be that it can damage some seals and especially rubber if left to soak for long periods.

And Glenn you're right - those are two reliable sources. I think the questions come from the fact that some sanitation concentrations mentioned are for food preparation surfaces rather than killing off the potential biofilms that can form in pipes and containers that are constantly moist. At least that's what I'm confused about.
Yes, they are no doubt often referring to institutional situations, large kitchens, hospitals. Where the concentration information regarding trailers is coming from, we do not know, but we know that only we use our trailers, not 1,000 or 100,000 people. We also know the climate where we are and how long we leave water in the tanks. Perhaps hot weather situations need more attention.

We carry gallons of water for drinking and some other uses.
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:41 PM   #51
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I have a 19 Escape and not sure if the tank is 20 Imperial or US gallons. According to my math 20 Imperial gallons is more volume at 91 litres versus 76 litres for 20 US gallons. I error on side of caution so I add 455 mLs of bleach (2 cups) (5 mLs/L x 91 L = 455 mLs) to a container of water and pour into the water tank.

I fill the water tank full, let it slosh around a bit but moving around in the trailer for 10 minutes or so, then run it through all the water lines with the water pump on (sink, bathroom sink and shower, and outside shower. Let it sit in the water lines for a few minutes, drain the water tank, fill tank with fresh water, run through the water lines again, then repeat one more time.

It takes a bit of time but I like knowing the system is clean. We use the water tank to cook and drink from.
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:32 PM   #52
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Yes, you have to keep your p traps lubricated or switch to the Hepvo valve.
Jim I have heard the name Hepvo valve but how does that work ? Can I install one at my kitchen sink ?Would it be a good change to do ? The sink in bath is used more so I am not worried about that one . Pat
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Old 02-14-2016, 05:56 PM   #53
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Very easy install, I put one in my EggCamper sink.
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:06 PM   #54
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Very easy install, I put one in my EggCamper sink.
Jim how does it work compared to p trap which I guess always has water in it , hence smell if not flushed enough . Pat
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:21 PM   #55
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It mounts horizontally or vertically, has 2 plastic lips that seal the odors. see here Hepvo Waterless Valve
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:39 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gharper View Post
I have a 19 Escape and not sure if the tank is 20 Imperial or US gallons. According to my math 20 Imperial gallons is more volume at 91 litres versus 76 litres for 20 US gallons. I error on side of caution so I add 455 mLs of bleach (2 cups) (5 mLs/L x 91 L = 455 mLs) to a container of water and pour into the water tank.

I fill the water tank full, let it slosh around a bit but moving around in the trailer for 10 minutes or so, then run it through all the water lines with the water pump on (sink, bathroom sink and shower, and outside shower. Let it sit in the water lines for a few minutes, drain the water tank, fill tank with fresh water, run through the water lines again, then repeat one more time.

It takes a bit of time but I like knowing the system is clean. We use the water tank to cook and drink from.
I basically did the same procedure for a 30 gal. Airstream I had for 10 years and never had a problem. The differences I did was put 1/2 cup bleach (approximately) in the filler hose to disinfect that. Then hook up the hose to the water faucet and inject the bleach into the trailer that way. I let it sit over night. I also flushed twice.
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:42 PM   #57
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I basically did the same procedure for a 30 gal. Airstream I had for 10 years and never had a problem. The differences I did was put 1/2 cup bleach (approximately) in the filler hose to disinfect that. Then hook up the hose to the water faucet and inject the bleach into the trailer that way. I let it sit over night. I also flushed twice.
Not sure here where the business end of the house went, but if you connected to the city water inlet you would not sanitize the tank.
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:45 PM   #58
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It mounts horizontally or vertically, has 2 plastic lips that seal the odors. see here Hepvo Waterless Valve
Thanks Jim I am going to check this out . Pat
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Old 02-14-2016, 06:52 PM   #59
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Not sure here where the business end of three house went, but if you connected to the city water inlet you would not sanitize the tank.
Put bleach in hose while the hose outlet is stuck in the trailer inlet. Hook up hose to city water. The bleach goes through the hose into the holding tank rather than putting bleach directly into holding tank. It is amazing how much gunk can grow in the hose if left on the ground while hooked up directly to city water in hot weather.
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:00 PM   #60
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Put bleach in hose while the hose outlet is stuck in the trailer inlet. Hook up hose to city water. The bleach goes through the hose into the holding tank rather than putting bleach directly into holding tank. It is amazing how much gunk can grow in the hose if left on the ground while hooked up directly to city water in hot weather.
I can believe it. I am assuming that you put bleach into the hose and ran lots of water through it before putting into trailer inlet. Excellent idea to do the hose and we will make sure we do that.
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