Winterizing Hot Water Heater

[ChuckBC]

Just wrapping up winterizing and thought I'd show how I cleaned out bits of anode left in drained hot water tank. Using Shop Vac attachment with 1/2" clear vinyl tubing I removed all the sediment from several years of anode erosion.
For me I continue to use the anode shown since there is plenty of material left, I know it's working from breakdown and why waste money. When wrapping with teflon tape I like to only do last plug threads for getting seal since it leaves a portion of clean metal to metal contact with tank.

[cpaharley2008]

Chuck,
Do you have a source for that vac attachment hose for cleaning the water heater? Thanks in advance.....

[ChuckBC]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Chuck,
Do you have a source for that vac attachment hose for cleaning the water heater? Thanks in advance.....

Yes, the source is my junk bin. What I used was a crevice tool from vacuum accessories and pushed a length of clear 1/2" vinyl hose in the end. I tool masking tape and made air tight. Bob's your uncle.

Worked great as I could see what I was getting out aa I slid it around inside of tank. It also cleared all remaining water for winterizing.

[alanmalk]

Another option is the wet method. Wear a raincoat and squirt water from a garden hose into the anode opening. Its a messy job but someone in our household has to do it. Sometimes the amount of sediment is amazing - depends on the water sources.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

Yes, the source is my junk bin. What I used was a crevice tool from vacuum accessories and pushed a length of clear 1/2" vinyl hose in the end. I tool masking tape and made air tight. Bob's your uncle.

Worked great as I could see what I was getting out aa I slid it around inside of tank. It also cleared all remaining water for winterizing.

It was the green masking tape that fooled me..... Made it to appear " store bought"///

[Mark B1]

Good idea, and easy. Thanks for sharing.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Another option is the wet method. Wear a raincoat and squirt water from a garden hose into the anode opening. Its a messy job but someone in our household has to do it. Sometimes the amount of sediment is amazing - depends on the water sources.

Camco makes a little wand that is designed for cleaning out the water heater through the drain/anode hole. It works pretty well and you don't get soaked!

[cpaharley2008]

Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...23020441&psc=1
just ordered another one for myself......

[HABBERDABBER]

There accumulates a lot of mineral deposits in the water heater, and it is hard to get it all out. I had some 3/8" DIA. or so copper tubing and bent the end 90 degrees to get the last dregs that resides just below the anode opening. Tubing just won't make the bend and get that. I attach it to a shop vac crevice tool and close off with packing tape any opening for max suction.
After drain and rinse, I stuff a strip of old cotton towel into the heater using a dowel, let capillary action wick out any water and then do the vac job.

[diannelgraham]

Originally Posted by ChuckBC

Just wrapping up winterizing and thought I'd show how I cleaned out bits of anode left in drained hot water tank. Using Shop Vac attachment with 1/2" clear vinyl tubing I removed all the sediment from several years of anode erosion.
For me I continue to use the anode shown since there is plenty of material left, I know it's working from breakdown and why waste money. When wrapping with teflon tape I like to only do last plug threads for getting seal since it leaves a portion of clean metal to metal contact with tank.

Clever! I'm going to try this.

[fudge_brownie]

Some final notes:store the camper with the anode removed and place a note/label over the inside hot water heater switch “winterized”.

[cpaharley2008]

I'd cover the hole to keep bugs out of the water heater while it is in the "sleep mode".....a piece of screen should do it.....

[marsman]

did not know to do this; I clean it all out and then screw the anode back into the water heater, why do we not want to do this?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by marsman

did not know to do this; I clean it all out and then screw the anode back into the water heater, why do we not want to do this?

There is no reason you cannot store the hot water heater empty with anode installed. FWIW the only time you do not want an anode in is if the water heater is filled with antifreeze but most know that it is better to bypass the HWH than to fill with 6 gallons of antifreeze.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by marsman

did not know to do this; I clean it all out and then screw the anode back into the water heater, why do we not want to do this?

I first bypass the water heater, remove the anode, flush the water heater tank out, let dry a day and then fully screw the anode back in place, ready to us when we get south in late January.

I'm also wondering why it was implied that we shouldn't fully screw the anode in?

Then again, I also blow the lines clear, run antifreeze through the system (and add antifreeze to the kitchen and shower traps), and then blow the lines clear again. Also ready to use in late January.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by marsman

did not know to do this; I clean it all out and then screw the anode back into the water heater, why do we not want to do this?

I would put it or a new one right back in-protect the heater threads.

[HABBERDABBER]

If you want to protect the threads of the WH, rub Vaseline or some petroleum product on them. I leave the anode open.....open, thru the winter. No screen, no protection. Come Spring, if some critter sets up home inside, I'll deal with it. Corrosion of anything requires an electrolyte (liquid) for conduction of galvanic or other corrosion to occur. In my book, the drier, the better. Why does metal rust......when it's wet? And super- rust in a salty, wet environment?
Because water, with it's minerals and contaminates is a conductor of electricity.
Absolutely pure H2O is not. We don't see that kind of water...a theoretical water. Water that we see and live with is a conductor of electricity, and corrosion.

Everybody has their own voodoo they do. This has worked for me.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

If you want to protect the threads of the WH, rub Vaseline or some petroleum product on them. I leave the anode open.....open, thru the winter. No screen, no protection. Come Spring, if some critter sets up home inside, I'll deal with it. Corrosion of anything requires an electrolyte (liquid) for conduction of galvanic or other corrosion to occur. In my book, the drier, the better. Why does metal rust......when it's wet? And super- rust in a salty, wet environment?
Because water, with it's minerals and contaminates is a conductor of electricity.
Absolutely pure H2O is not. We don't see that kind of water...a theoretical water. Water that we see and live with is a conductor of electricity, and corrosion.

Everybody has their own voodoo they do. This has worked for me.

Critters in there, no thanks.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

Critters in there, no thanks.

I've not had any in there. Ever. It's heading to freezing now where I'm at. Bugs ain't an issue, anymore . A cover on the rig, synched tight and the heater drop cover seems to keep all the riff-raf out very well.

YMMV, where you live.

[Escape_19]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

I've not had any in there. Ever. It's heading to freezing now where I'm at. Bugs ain't an issue, anymore . A cover on the rig, synched tight and the heater drop cover seems to keep all the riff-raf out very well.

YMMV, where you live.

Hmmm...I thought down south it stays warmer