This thread is surprising as I had no idea that Escape trailers have been wired so differently depending on the year manufactured and who the tech was that wired it.
It would seem that Escape would pick a "best practice wiring" and stick with it.
This is going to make creating a generic wiring diagram difficult. Should I just draw up how it should be wired and let it go with that?
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
Here is your wiring diagram. Two things I would change is to add the terminal fuse between the battery cutoff switch and the battery and the other is to move the solar charge connection to before the battery cutoff switch. The first one because the battery cutoff switch you have is the same one I used and can pass 300 amps - that's enough to melt the wiring downstream of the switch. The second one because the solar could be charging your battery while the battery cutoff switch is off while in storage.
Thank you ... much appreciated
Question: if you have time, can you please recommend a terminal fuse for my specific application? (internet link?).
And about solar charging the battery while battery box disconnect switch if off.
Initially I only wanted to replace the factory installed battery disconnect switch (not relocate it also).
But the new switch I bought wouldn't fit in the stock location. After learning that the solar doesn't charge the battery with the disconnect switch at the battery box location ... I still went ahead with putting it there. I do like being able to completely disconnect the battery.
I may put in another disconnect switch back in the stock location and wired the same ... but need to find a robust and correct size switch, that will fit in the stock location and fit the wires going in and out of it.
With two disconnect switches, I'll have the option of keeping the batteries charging or completely disconnected the batteries.
Here is your wiring diagram. Two things I would change is to add the terminal fuse between the battery cutoff switch and the battery and the other is to move the solar charge connection to before the battery cutoff switch. The first one because the battery cutoff switch you have is the same one I used and can pass 300 amps - that's enough to melt the wiring downstream of the switch. The second one because the solar could be charging your battery while the battery cutoff switch is off while in storage.
Very informative discussion and thanks for the illustrations.
You recommend connecting the solar controller before the battery cutoff switch because the solar could charge the battery while the cutoff switch is off during storage. This has been seen as a positive in the past...the solar can keep the battery topped off during storage. But you think it is a problem?
Question: if you have time, can you please recommend a terminal fuse for my specific application? (internet link?).
And about solar charging the battery while battery box disconnect switch if off.
Initially I only wanted to replace the factory installed battery disconnect switch (not relocate it also).
But the new switch I bought wouldn't fit in the stock location. After learning that the solar doesn't charge the battery with the disconnect switch at the battery box location ... I still went ahead with putting it there. I do like being able to completely disconnect the battery.
I may put in another disconnect switch back in the stock location and wired the same ... but need to find a robust and correct size switch, that will fit in the stock location and fit the wires going in and out of it.
With two disconnect switches, I'll have the option of keeping the batteries charging or completely disconnected the batteries.
I installed my Blue Seas in the stock position by cutting a hole large enough for the terminal part of the switch to pass through and leaving the rest of the switch behind the panel. I sandwiched a piece of plywood in the back to add strength to the paneling.
Very informative discussion and thanks for the illustrations.
You recommend connecting the solar controller before the battery cutoff switch because the solar could charge the battery while the cutoff switch is off during storage. This has been seen as a positive in the past...the solar can keep the battery topped off during storage. But you think it is a problem?
No, keeping the batteries topped off makes them last longer - if you want to kill a battery, just let the charge get low for too long. Just check the battery water about every 6 months.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
I installed my Blue Seas in the stock position by cutting a hole large enough for the terminal part of the switch to pass through and leaving the rest of the switch behind the panel. I sandwiched a piece of plywood in the back to add strength to the paneling.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
Do you have photo of where wires connect at thermal breaker? I was having problem of how to have different size wire connectors at each end of the wires, due to the different size terminals compared to Blue Seas switch and the thermal breaker.
And, you have three wires attached to the Blue Seas switch? ... my 19' had only two wires at the stock location disconnect switch
Thanks for sharing the photos.
Do you have photo of where wires connect at thermal breaker? I was having problem of how to have different size wire connectors at each end of the wires, due to the different size terminals compared to Blue Seas switch and the thermal breaker.
And, you have three wires attached to the Blue Seas switch? ... my 19' had only two wires at the stock location disconnect switch
Since I have a 60 amp fuse at the battery, the 50 amp thermal fuse was redundant and I removed it. The wire leaving the battery cutoff switch on my trailer goes to the converter and 40 amp thermal fuse for the power tongue jack.
The third wire in the pic is a wire that I added and goes to the emergency brake circuit.
Below is the wiring diagram for my trailer.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
Since I have a 60 amp fuse at the battery, the 50 amp thermal fuse was redundant and I removed it. The wire leaving the battery cutoff switch on my trailer goes to the converter and 40 amp thermal fuse for the power tongue jack.
The third wire in the pic goes to the emergency brake circuit.
Below is the wiring diagram for my trailer.
Thanks for the explanation.
just thinking, so for my 2019 19' ... when Escape Industries wired it, they didn't put a terminal fuse at the battery location, but they did put in thermal breakers for the converter and solar circuits.
Is this another way of accomplishing the same thing?
just thinking, so for my 2019 19' ... when Escape Industries wired it, then didn't put a terminal fuse at the battery location, but they did put in thermal breakers for the converter and solar circuits.
Is this another way of accomplishing the same thing?
Yes, with the exception that the wire running from the battery to the thermal fuse is unprotected. In my trailer, that's a long stretch of wire.
Here's some history. Escape used to not install a terminal fuse at the battery. Then they started installing one due to safety concerns trailer industry wide but left the 50 amp thermal fuse in the circuit (that didn't make sense). Now it seems, they have removed the terminal fuse.
The terminal fuse should be there so I guess Escape is saving $6? Or maybe enough people had the Maxi fuse blow, couldn't find it causing grief for customer support, and they removed it. I'm only guessing....
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
Yes, with the exception that the wire running from the battery to the thermal fuse is unprotected. In my trailer, that's a long stretch of wire.
Here's some history. Escape used to not install a terminal fuse at the battery. Then they started installing one due to safety concerns trailer industry wide but left the 50 amp thermal fuse in the circuit (that didn't make sense). Now it seems, they have removed the terminal fuse.
The terminal fuse should be there so I guess Escape is saving $6? Or maybe enough people had the Maxi fuse blow, couldn't find it causing grief for customer support, and they removed it. I'm only guessing....
ok, thanks for info and history.
The battery wire to the first thermal breaker on the 2019 19' ... is less than 4 feet long.
Maybe they figure that is ok, and do not need a terminal fuse at the battery?
like I was saying ... I have only basic electrical knowledge, so appreciate learning new stuff.
Thanks
Yes, with the exception that the wire running from the battery to the thermal fuse is unprotected. In my trailer, that's a long stretch of wire.
Here's some history. Escape used to not install a terminal fuse at the battery. Then they started installing one due to safety concerns trailer industry wide but left the 50 amp thermal fuse in the circuit (that didn't make sense). Now it seems, they have removed the terminal fuse.
The terminal fuse should be there so I guess Escape is saving $6? Or maybe enough people had the Maxi fuse blow, couldn't find it causing grief for customer support, and they removed it. I'm only guessing....
Tom my head is starting to swim ! On our 2013 19 there is not a terminal fuse at the battery . I checked today . The inline fuse connected to my battery is from the Barker Power Jack I installed couple years ago .
Back in the refrigerator compartment because I added a fan , I also added a inline fuse .
The only other fuse is under bench I think it is a 40 amp aluminum little case with 2 posts .
When I installed my solar I added before the battery 2 on and off switches to cut battery power from solar to battery and cut battery power in case I needed to work on system .
I bought better marine battery shut off and moved it . I shut off both those switches before I worked on moving cut off . It did cut the power from battery .
I have very little knowledge of electrical but can follow directions .
Is there anything I should do to electrical ?
I looked up and found some terminal fuses to put on battery post . Which one if I need to buy do I need ?
Tom appreciate any help you can give . Pat
Thankyou I did see those on amazon so just the 60 amp fuse which I believe you get separately ? The terminal mount then order the 60 amp . Install on the positive ? I have 2 6 volts wired together . I also have battery monitor which wires to the negative side . Pat
Thankyou I did see those on amazon so just the 60 amp fuse which I believe you get separately ? The terminal mount then order the 60 amp . Install on the positive ? I have 2 6 volts wired together . I also have battery monitor which wires to the negative side . Pat
yes, must buy the fuse and holder separately. I'm just using one on the positive lead feeding into the trailer. I also have the two 6 V batteries.
I also have a battery monitor shunt on the negative battery lead.
Generally a wire is fused by it gauge. The bigger the wire is the more current it can carry (less resistance, so less heat). If the current is too high it can light up and cause a fire.
On the other hand you don't want the fuse blowing all the time. I don't have an inverter either.
I believe the converter in our trailers has a 50 or 55 Amp charger. I don't think it could ever put that much into a flooded cell.
An AGM battery would take all it could get though. I used to fast charge my AGM's on my boat at 100 Amps with a 140 Amp alternator.
So I picked 60 Amps as a safe fuse for this application. Plus Escape has a 50 Amp thermal breaker where the positive battery cable enters the trailer.
Its really for a catastrophic accident. Like a short across the batteries. I could happen with a bicycle frame back there or say a rear end collision.
Generally a wire is fused by it gauge. The bigger the wire is the more current it can carry (less resistance, so less heat). If the current is too high it can light up and cause a fire.
On the other hand you don't want the fuse blowing all the time. I don't have an inverter either.
I believe the converter in our trailers has a 50 or 55 Amp charger. I don't think it could ever put that much into a flooded cell.
An AGM battery would take all it could get though. I used to fast charge my AGM's on my boat at 100 Amps with a 140 Amp alternator.
So I picked 60 Amps as a safe fuse for this application. Plus Escape has a 50 Amp thermal breaker where the positive battery cable enters the trailer.
Its really for a catastrophic accident. Like a short across the batteries. I could happen with a bicycle frame back there or say a rear end collision.
Bob
Yes the converter is 55amps . Is the little aluminum case with 2 posts the thermal breaker ? Pat
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