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05-12-2019, 05:44 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Terrace, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 378
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Anode Rod Issue and a Couple of Questions
Getting ready for the camping season. Wanted to check out our anode rod for the hot water tank. Had a bit of trouble getting it due to severely rusted threads. The rod itself still has a lot of 'meat' on it but I'm going to change it out for a new aluminum one from Camco.
I'm going to have purchase a tap and the chase the threads on that tank. The new rod is having a hard time going in due to the rust build-up. What size is the threaded hole? It looks to be 1" NC but I need confirmation of that.
Also, I've heard that the stock water heater in the Escapes (2012 19) can be replaced with an aluminum one that doesn't require an anode rod. Has anyone done this to their trailer? I searched online but didn't find a lot of info on these heaters.
Doug
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05-12-2019, 06:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuthatchBC
Also, I've heard that the stock water heater in the Escapes (2012 19) can be replaced with an aluminum one that doesn't require an anode rod. Has anyone done this to their trailer? I searched online but didn't find a lot of info on these heaters.
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An RV water heater with an aluminum tank would presumably be a Dometic (formerly Atwood). They are similar in size and design but probably not a direct replacement for the Suburban water heater in an Escape; Dometic sells adapter hardware to make theirs fit, but only in the 10-gallon size (Escape uses the six-gallon size, like most small trailers).
Dometic RV water heaters
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05-12-2019, 09:38 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Terrace, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 378
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Sounds like I should just stick with the stock tank and take good care of the anode receiver threads
Doug
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05-12-2019, 09:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,277
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Chase the threads, buy a new anode. I always buy a magnesium Camco rod. It sacrifices nicely and gives us good protection. Use Teflon tape about three or four wraps on the new one. As Baglo usually reminds, a stack of washers or quarters in the socket to “Shallow it up” ( my words) will allow better alignment of the rod threads to the heater. When you use a socket extension on your 1 1/16 socket. Easy does it when starting the rod. Back up and go again if it doesn’t go easy.
Iowa Dave
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Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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05-13-2019, 05:45 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: n/a, Texas
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 731
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You don't want to chase the threads too much because anode threads are tapered. The rod is not meant to be screwed in all the way to where it bottoms out against a washer, as in a garden hose. It is meant to be screwed in until the taper makes for a good seal. Good to clean the threads, but not good to cut any any metal.
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05-13-2019, 06:21 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Fenton, Michigan
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21, 2014 Northern Lite slide in, 2014 2500 Duramax
Posts: 186
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I believe the rod is 3/4 NPT pipe thread
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05-13-2019, 06:24 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I found a neat adapter kit with a zinc anode, it has a built in discharge, similar to your auto radiator petcock. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-NW-LE...41088702&psc=1
Anyone have any experience with one of these?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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05-13-2019, 09:02 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Front Range, Colorado
Trailer: ?
Posts: 739
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Had the same rust situation with a second hand Casita.I found a wire brush small enough to fit in the hole and twisted it around and around. Then took the Dremel tool with the wire brush attachment and finished the job. Wound up with nice clean threads.
Worth a try.
Ed
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05-13-2019, 09:23 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,277
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That’s what I did too , Ed. I had a brand new sealed up battery cable brush that I used. Now I keep it separate with my water system stuff. Can’t beat those Dremels.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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05-13-2019, 09:37 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21
Posts: 282
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Hello Jim.
I had one of those on my 2005 17B.It makes it easier to drain the tank.I also found a tool to grip the wings on the drain gizmo.The wings are a little soft, but yes it does work for easy emptying of the water heater.
Allan.
__________________
Allan Bornestig
North Vancouver
Trailer Escape 21
2017
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05-13-2019, 10:52 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
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As others have said, a wire brushing, in one form or another, works well to clean up the threads.
I wouldn't use one of those kits. Lot's of memories of those small petcock type radiator drains. None good. There can be a lot of crud in the tank and the petcock could end up plugged pretty quick. Or those little tabs could twist off. With the large hole you get a better flushing out of crap. Also, if it's time to drain the tank, it's probably also time to check the anode.
Ron
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05-13-2019, 12:00 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Fredericksburg, Texas
Trailer: sold Airstream\Casita -2019 21' Escape
Posts: 190
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Had to do this a few months ago on Casita. Left the rod out over winter and didn't take long to rust up. Here is tapping link:
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05-13-2019, 12:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,861
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I have a bit of a reservation with folks that don't have experience with pipe threads doing that.
A pipe tap tapers. The more you "clean out the threads" the deeper the fitting goes. Do that a few times and there's a danger of the anode going further in the hole until the hex end bottoms out without making a pipe joint seal.
If you use a pipe tap don't remove any unnecessary metal. If you end up with bright shiny threads you probably took off more material than you should have.
I leave my air blowing out plug in the hole over the winter and the threads stay pretty clean.
Ron
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05-13-2019, 01:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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What you think about a few drops of Liquid Wrench on an old tooth brush, only making contact with the threads? Wiping off with a cloth.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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05-13-2019, 01:13 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
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I don’t like the idea of chasing threads unless needed (which isn’t required for just a little rust) instead I have a round wire brush for thread cleaning which I have cut the handle off, inserted into a drill then with a quick pass or two the threads are clean.
__________________
Cheers
Doug
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05-13-2019, 01:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
What you think about a few drops of Liquid Wrench on an old tooth brush, only making contact with the threads? Wiping off with a cloth.
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A tooth brush is probably not the best brush for the job. Places like Canadian Tire sell, usually in a pack of 3, one nylon, one brass and one s/s, brushes that are the same size as a tooth brush but more suited to cleaning up rust. Also very handy size for battery terminals.
Ron
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05-13-2019, 02:34 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: East Dover, Vermont
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA!
Posts: 678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
A tooth brush is probably not the best brush for the job. Places like Canadian Tire sell, usually in a pack of 3, one nylon, one brass and one s/s, brushes that are the same size as a tooth brush but more suited to cleaning up rust. Also very handy size for battery terminals.
Ron
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Agreed. I just cleaned mine up pretty well with that type of brass brush. Screwed the anode in and am almost ready to camp if it ever stops raining/snowing!
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05-13-2019, 02:53 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2015 17A - Ready for more Maiden Voyages ....
Posts: 881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
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I wouldn't use the above zinc anode kit. The usual anode material is either aluminum or magnesium. I prefer the magnesium anodes as that metal is more "reactive" and should protect your tank better. The magnesium anodes are required for aluminum tanks. A zinc anode in an aluminum tank will offer the tank no protection at all.
Tom
__________________
Consciousness: That confusing time between naps
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05-13-2019, 06:36 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena
I wouldn't use the above zinc anode kit. The usual anode material is either aluminum or magnesium. I prefer the magnesium anodes as that metal is more "reactive" and should protect your tank better. The magnesium anodes are required for aluminum tanks. A zinc anode in an aluminum tank will offer the tank no protection at all.
Tom
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Good info. The Suburban water heaters Escape uses have a porcelain lined steel tank.
This is a good video on anodes.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=33s&v=UiaNW2bXeT8
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05-13-2019, 06:49 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
What you think about a few drops of Liquid Wrench on an old tooth brush, only making contact with the threads? Wiping off with a cloth.
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The video I just posted by Suburban/RV Education shows him using Mineral Oil. Since it is sometimes used as a food additive I assume it is safer to use on the threads than something like Liquid Wrench with petroleum distillates.
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