Making water heater work

[dblagsvedt]

We are on our virgin voyage with escape 19 for a coastal trip in Washington state. We’ve been at a campsite for 24 hours and have not been able to get the water heater to work. We have we’ve done many things to try to rectify: turn gas on and off, push reset button push the water heater switch on again. Wait 20 minutes blah blah blah. The pilot for the water heater is definitely on , we are getting gas for out stove. Not sure what to do next while we are on away. Certainly can call Escape on Monday But that doesn’t solve the problem in the moment! Any suggestions from your good folks?

[Vermilye]

Your Escape is new enough that it does not have a pilot light; it uses direct spark ignition. Has it ever worked?

The normal procedure is to turn on the water heater switch (the one on the lower left of the black panel). The LED should come on for a few seconds, then go out as the flame ignites.

Again, this is what is suppose to happen. If it isn't, I'd check the water heater control module (in my 21C it is a white box with lots of wires attached to the wall next to the water heater). Check that none of them are loose.

Listen at the water heater to what happens when you turn on the water heater switch. Can you hear the spark "snapping"? Does the gas valve "click"? Do you hear a rush of propane and a small "thump" as it ignites? Again, this is what is suppose to happen, but which of those is not happening might give a clue as to what is wrong.

[Viajante]

I'll try to start the response although I am not familiar with a pilot light. My model has electronic ignition. And it sounds like you are using propane only.

Assuming there is water in the tank with the bypass valves in the proper position and the air purged out, the starting sequence is:

Press the start switch to the on position. Immediately the adjacent red light should come on.

Next you should hear a soft "thunk" sound as the solenoid opens the gas valve. Immediately after that the ignitor should click and light the burner.

After the burner stays lit a short time the flame sensor signals the heater that it is running and the red light will go out.

The reset button is used only when excessive water temp has tripped the high limit switch.

If there is no red light all I can suggest is check the fuse panel.

If the burner tries to light but cannot or will not stay lit it is easy to remove and clean the ignitor/flame sensor in the burner. Again, if your model has a pilot light things might be different.

I have no suggestions if it is not getting propane. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Good luck.

[HABBERDABBER]

One suggestion is to be absolutely certain you have water in the heater. Was the by-pass valve checked for correct positioning to fill the tank? If so, keep working the problem.

Edit: Viajante beat me to the post-it key.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by dblagsvedt

We are on our virgin voyage with escape 19 for a coastal trip in Washington state. We’ve been at a campsite for 24 hours and have not been able to get the water heater to work. We have we’ve done many things to try to rectify: turn gas on and off, push reset button push the water heater switch on again. Wait 20 minutes blah blah blah. The pilot for the water heater is definitely on , we are getting gas for out stove. Not sure what to do next while we are on away. Certainly can call Escape on Monday But that doesn’t solve the problem in the moment! Any suggestions from your good folks?

There is no pilot light. If the gas burner is actually on and there is no water in the tank it might create a dangerous situation by overheating a dry tank. (I don't know if there is some sort of safety system to prevent this from happening.)

The switch people are referring to is the one above the refrigerator like the one pictured below, at least that's where it's located on the Escape 21.



If there's no water in the tank, it might be very hot and it would be dangerous to suddenly introduce cold water into a hot tank. You can check whether the tank is hot by opening the exterior access panel for the water heater.

Once you are certain that the tank is not dangerously hot, you can check the bypass valves on the interior side of the water heater to make sure that water is actually getting into the tank. These valves are described in your manual which you received from Escape.

The tank should be filled with water before heating by opening the bath and kitchen sink fixtures and running water until no air comes out.

Let us know if you are trying to run the tank on electric power as that's a whole different thing altogether.

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

One suggestion is to be absolutely certain you have water in the heater. Was the by-pass valve checked for correct positioning to fill the tank? If so, keep working the problem.

Edit: Viajante beat me to the post-it key.

Yes! With a winter pick-up/delivery date, the water heater would have been in bypass mode from the factory. Check the valves on the water lines leading to the water heater and make sure they are “In-Line” and not “perpendicular” to the water pipes. Good luck!

[Viajante]

For general information, the propane side of the water heater should be ok if it overheats on an empty tank. The electric side won't function because the element will burn out if it is used on an empty tank.

As the tank overheats the high limit switch will trip and shut the heater down. There is a reset button under the black cover on the outside of the tank. If there are two reset buttons the one on the right is for propane, the left is for electric. Let the tank cool before pushing the switch reset.

Adding water to a hot tank is protected by the pressure relief valve at the top left of the tank. If the water turns to steam the valve will open. Don't stand in front of it while adding water.

If the tank seriously overheats (I don't know what that level is) the high limit switch also has a fusible link that will break and shut down the heater. If that happens the switch must be replaced ($15 part).

The gas and burner mechanisms, being outside that tank, should be OK.

If the burner was running on an empty tank then wait a half hour, fill the tank, push the reset, and try a restart.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Viajante

If the burner was running on an empty tank then wait a half hour, fill the tank, push the reset, and try a restart.

Thanks for the additional information! I'd suspected the manufacturer would try to make their gear "camper-proof" to some degree.

I like your succinct conclusion to give it half an hour before filling.

The image of cold water hitting over-heated metal is troubling as steam can generate so much force, and metals would be stressed by such sudden changes in temperature.

Don hasn't logged in since his original post; I hope this works out for him.

[Small but Sweet]

We picked up our Escape on 2/28, and were baffled by the water heater too. It was winterized and the instruction said to dewinterize it by putting it off bypass. WHAT? Turned out after watching the orientation video, we needed to move the bypass levers from vertical to horizontal to start flow. Then turn on some hot taps to start cold water flowing through the unit, before turning it on. Never turn on the gas or electric to it until you can confirm that water is full, by toggling a little lever on the outside unit and water should spurt out. The bypass levers are on the unit accessed from inside the trailer, under the bed in the 21C, one on the red pipe one on blue.

[dblagsvedt]

To all mentioning the bypass valve, that is exactly what the issue was! It’s not exactly obvious from reading the manual but when you read it very carefully thebypass valves were the ultimate answer. Thanks all! I love this forum

[Civilguy]

That's good to hear!

Thanks for posting, it's always nice to hear "the rest of the story".