RMD 8555 replacement

[John in Santa Cruz]

indeed, the N2175 is a DC compressor fridge, rather than an 'absorption' fridge.

The N2175 door is reversible without any extra parts, see the installation manual that comes with it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/20...page=26#manual
(and the next page or two)

since your RV has a DC Converter already, a DC fridge can run on that just fine when you're on shore power, you don't need an AC/DC fridge for that.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

indeed, the N2175 is a DC compressor fridge, rather than an 'absorption' fridge.

The N2175 door is reversible without any extra parts, see the installation manual that comes with it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/20...page=26#manual
(and the next page or two)

since your RV has a DC Converter already, a DC fridge can run on that just fine when you're on shore power, you don't need an AC/DC fridge for that.

Ooops- brain flatulence; got mixed up with my Isotherm for the van which has no WFCO or similar converter. So for $1,620 one can get the DC only & save $158.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Frustrating to see that there is no direct replacement now for the RMD8555 as the RMD 105.XT is now discontinued. Dimensions are 49 H X 20 1/16 H X 24 7/16 D.

I know that some have installed a Norcold N2175 - and it appears there is a different part number for those wanting a left hand vs. right hand opening.
The Norcold N2175 appears to be a DC unit only.
...

Our transition from RMD8555 to a Norcold 2175 is nearly complete. It was a tumultuous start - starting with the (now) discontinued RDM10.5 being pulled from my shopping cart, followed by having the first N2175 arriving in an unusable state. But finally we have an installed N2175 being stress tested and looking good. Yes, it is a 12 VDC only unit, so I see some additional Lithium batteries coming soon - at a much lower price than our current pair which eases the pain somewhat.

But to the point of this post: Lots of RMD8555 parts sitting around looking for a good home. Do you need some shelves? (We broke almost all the original shelves bouncing thru washboard and West Texas oil patch potholes.) Our new shelves ran nearly $100 each! I fabricated some strong plexiglass reinforcements and they have done the job nicely (the flat objects with all the circular holes in the photos.) Door shelves also available. 2 of the main shelves are brand new.

Perhaps you want a spare burner orifice? Back side fan? Electronics? Or even the entire refrigerator? I'll work with you (but priority to anyone needing the whole package.)

Look at the photos and decide if anything interests you, then send me a PM.

[alanmalk]

Getting very close to decision time. Last call for anyone that might want all or parts of our now surplus RMD8555. Use the PM (Private Message) system for a quicker reply.

[John in Santa Cruz]

An update on power consumption... In 85-90F southern Mexico February weather that only cools to the mid 70s at 3am, I used 46% of my 5260WH (412AH 12V) lithium batteries in 3.5 days, parked in deep shade. The packed full fridge was running about 50% duty cycle at 4-5 amps. Lighting, fan use of course.

[huskersteffy]

I currently have my original RMD8555 fridge, dual 6 Volt Batteries (225 Amp Hours), no solar. I'm kinda surprised the batteries have lasted this long (8 years), but I do bring them inside over winter and put them on a trickle charger. I check voltage and top off with distilled water before hauling them back to the camper. Aside from being a PITA to move them back and forth, so far so good.

It seems like everyone on this thread has upgraded to lithium batteries when installing a compressor fridge. Is that because lithium technology provides more amp-hours per battery volume, constant discharge rate, or some other reason?

Does anyone have a 12 Volt compressor fridge with one or two regular lead-acid batteries?

Thanks.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by huskersteffy

... lithium technology provides more amp-hours per battery volume ...

That's the crux of it for me.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by huskersteffy

I currently have my original RMD8555 fridge, dual 6 Volt Batteries (225 Amp Hours), no solar. I'm kinda surprised the batteries have lasted this long (8 years), but I do bring them inside over winter and put them on a trickle charger. I check voltage and top off with distilled water before hauling them back to the camper. Aside from being a PITA to move them back and forth, so far so good.

It seems like everyone on this thread has upgraded to lithium batteries when installing a compressor fridge. Is that because lithium technology provides more amp-hours per battery volume, constant discharge rate, or some other reason?

Does anyone have a 12 Volt compressor fridge with one or two regular lead-acid batteries?

Thanks.

With 225 amps in lead acid batteries, you can use 112.5 amps (50%) from the batteries without damaging the batteries, although I personally wouldn’t go that far, perhaps 100 amps. If you are not boondocking and have hookups at the end of the day, I would think you could use a 12 vdc compressor refrigerator. With careful use of other 12 volt appliances and lights, you could probably stop overnight without shore power if you have connections the second night. A DC to DC charger could add to your batteries when towing.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

With 225 amps in lead acid batteries, you can use 112.5 amps (50%) from the batteries without damaging the batteries, although I personally wouldn’t go that far, perhaps 100 amps....

True deep cycle lead acid like golf cart batteries are a bit better than that. But nowhere near the 5260 watt hours I can pull from my two 12v 206AH SOK lithium batteries 1000s of times.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by huskersteffy

It seems like everyone on this thread has upgraded to lithium batteries when installing a compressor fridge. Is that because lithium technology provides more amp-hours per battery volume, constant discharge rate, or some other reason?

All the above. We have the Isotherm Curise 195, dual compressor. Our experience indicates the compressor frig/freezer uses 750-900 Whr per day. Our rule-of-thumb is the frig/freezer combo averages about 3/4 of a Battleborn GC2 LiFePO battery per day. On summer days, we figure one battery per day consumption.

73/gus

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gklott

All the above. We have the Isotherm Curise 195, dual compressor. Our experience indicates the compressor frig/freezer uses 750-900 Whr per day. Our rule-of-thumb is the frig/freezer combo averages about 3/4 of a Battleborn GC2 LiFePO battery per day. On summer days, we figure one battery per day consumption.

73/gus

I'm getting about 6-7 days from my two SOK 12V 206AH running my Norcold N2175 along with everything else I run. That's with zero sun... My 350W solar panel seems to deliver 1000-2500 watt hours a day if I'm parked in the open on a sunny day

[gklott]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I'm getting about 6-7 days from my two SOK 12V 206AH running my Norcold N2175 along with everything else I run. That's with zero sun... My 350W solar panel seems to deliver 1000-2500 watt hours a day if I'm parked in the open on a sunny day

Electrical energy storage is no longer our boondocking limiter, even with the dual-compressor refrigerator/freezer. Recommend considering a mix of storage and generation, internal or external to your trailer. When towing with our Sprinter van, we travel with ~ 17 kWhr storage.

Originally Posted by huskersteffy

I currently have my original RMD8555 fridge, dual 6 Volt Batteries (225 Amp Hours), no solar.

You might start by replacing your trailer’s Lead-Acid batteries with LiFePO, but recommend considering that all your energy storage does not need to be in your trailer.

73/gus

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gklott

...
You might start by replacing your trailer’s Lead-Acid batteries with LiFePO, but recommend considering that all your energy storage does not need to be in your trailer.

73/gus

Where else would it be? In your tow vehicle? What about when you go on side trips and leave the trailer in camp? And, with multiple battery systems you run into issues with balance, keeping them all charged, etc.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Where else would it be? In your tow vehicle? What about when you go on side trips and leave the trailer in camp? And, with multiple battery systems you run into issues with balance, keeping them all charged, etc.

All the issues you raise are easily managed. Flexibility is key. Side trips are no problem.

See our EcoFlow Delta Pro with 10 kWhr storage in our tow vehicle. Our E19 plugs into the EcoFlow just as we plug into shore power. We can charge the trailer and tow vehicle energy storage systems independently, using fixed solar, portable solar, shore power, tow vehicle alternator, or generator.

73/gus

[Rossue]

Like GKLOTT, we sometimes tow our 21C with our Ford Transit AWD/EcoBoost. We have an Adventure Wagon interior that runs the low draw electrical off of our dual AGM starter batteries. Lights, USB, 12V Cig plugs, water pump are those items. For the heavier stuff like the dual induction cooktop and Isotherm 130 we use a Goal Zero 3000X. Our Propex heater is usually powered by the GZ, however the van batteries could run it if needed as well. Very versatile setup and we can bring the GZ inside during power outages at home.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by gklott

All the issues you raise are easily managed. Flexibility is key. Side trips are no problem.

See our EcoFlow Delta Pro with 10 kWhr storage in our tow vehicle. Our E19 plugs into the EcoFlow just as we plug into shore power. We can charge the trailer and tow vehicle energy storage systems independently, using fixed solar, portable solar, shore power, tow vehicle alternator, or generator.

73/gus

Why would I want 10kWH in my Ford Expedition tow vehicle?? That's a $7000 battery+thing, and I already have a 2000W pure sine inverter in my Escape, along with 5kWH of batteries.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Why would I want 10kWH in my Ford Expedition tow vehicle?

You may not, no worries, but IMO when reading this forum it's always good to remember that other folks may have different perfectly legitimate interests.

Generator-free long term base-camp boondocking while enjoying many electrical amenities, just for example (the sun doesn't always shine ). There's nothing wrong with that or finding ways (recognizing there's likely more than one way) to facilitate that.

Many of us find the shared experience of others, even if not directly applicable to our own immediate situation, both interesting and informative.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Why would I want 10kWH in my Ford Expedition tow vehicle?? That's a $7000 battery+thing, and I already have a 2000W pure sine inverter in my Escape, along with 5kWH of batteries.

John, you might not need one. The bottom line: Our hybrid energy system provides many options.

For example, we attended Quartzfest 2024. See attached. We arrived Saturday, Jan 20 and departed Sunday, Jan 28. We were in the BLM Roadrunner LTVA dispersed camping area. During this time, we charged our trailer batteries using our fixed 165W rooftop solar panel, and I deployed a 200W portable panel for three days. The first 4 days were rainy and overcast.

We ran StarLink continuously; used our laptops for work and ham radio operation; charged our iPhones, iPads, and other USB-hungry devices; used our trailer's electrical infrastructure including the Isotherm; and, we cooked some meals on our convection cooktop. I plugged our trailer into the EcoFlow, and we departed with full trailer batteries and > 50% remaining on the EcoFlow (12 kWhr total remaining).

We have sleeping, cooking, and toilet capabilities in our Sprinter. We can take overnight trips away from our E19 with plenty of power.

Plus, we wanted to see how the hybrid energy system would work.

The EcoFlow has the 3000W inverter; transfer switch; shore, solar, and alternator charge controllers; and, 10 kWhr storage all in a package. It provides an Anderson Port with 12.6V, 30A.

We’ve seen many RVers dump the traditional WFCO based converter and lead-acid batteries and replace them with the EcoFlow Delta Pro, Bluetti, Goal Zero Yeti, or similar system. It’s an all in one trailer solution in a small package. Beyond the portable system like ours, EcoFlow offers an RV-specific energy infrastructure more advanced than what Victron offers with up to 15 kWhr storage.

Many new trailers are becoming all-electric, such as Johnny Hung’s E21. A hybrid system is one way to achieve this.

73/gus

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Like GKLOTT, we sometimes tow our 21C with our Ford Transit AWD/EcoBoost. We have an Adventure Wagon interior that runs the low draw electrical off of our dual AGM starter batteries. Lights, USB, 12V Cig plugs, water pump are those items. For the heavier stuff like the dual induction cooktop and Isotherm 130 we use a Goal Zero 3000X. Our Propex heater is usually powered by the GZ, however the van batteries could run it if needed as well. Very versatile setup and we can bring the GZ inside during power outages at home.

You have a neat setup. We agree - very versatile. Adventure Wagon makes nice van interiors. We also use our EcoFlow system at home during power outages.

73/gus

[John in Santa Cruz]

My fixed rooftop solar is 360W and can generate up to 2500:WH a day. Single LG NeonR panel, Victron SmartSolar 100/30 controller. Very happy with it. Panel was about $400 on sale, I forget how much the controller cost, 2 SOK 206AH Lithium batts were about $1100 a year or two ago. The Renogy 2000W inverter was about $300. I wired it all myself.