Solar panel(s)

[Melusine]

tdf-texas-
I'm guessing you'd be the guy to ask this question: is there a "plug and play" portable panel compatible with the Zamp port installed in my 2020 (but not received til Jan. 2021) E19 as an option?
Though I also opted for the second roof-mounted panel, I'd like to know I can get some input despite being in relative shade.
Thanks!
Jon in AZ (who isn't at all technically savvy, unlike the Jon V also presently in AZ)

[John in Santa Cruz]

Zamp probably sells something quite overpriced.

you don't really need to know much about electricity to crimp the positive wire to the positive terminal and the negative wire to the negative terminal of any sort of connector you want to use. you do need a decent crimper, but thats a buy once, use forever kinda tool. the cheap crimper-stripers they sell at the hardware store don't really cut it.

[John in Santa Cruz]

4 x $75 is $300 for 160 watts? thats more expensive per watt and a lot less convenient than a Renogy 200W folding "Solar Suitcase", $320 at Amazon with an integral 20A controller, these have integral folding stands, and come with a nice sturdy carry/storage case..

[Bcescapist]

Thanks to all for your helpful comments, recommendations & links. Have elected to go with a 200W monocrystalline solar suitcase from RENOGY ($389 CAD with free shipping!). Will probably ditch the alligator clips and install an exterior solar socket as recommended by tdf-Texas (CERRXIAN 55cm 10AWG SAE Socket Solar Weatherproof Sidewall Port). Should give us the boost we need in those West Coast shady parks.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Melusine

tdf-texas-
I'm guessing you'd be the guy to ask this question: is there a "plug and play" portable panel compatible with the Zamp port installed in my 2020 (but not received til Jan. 2021) E19 as an option?
Though I also opted for the second roof-mounted panel, I'd like to know I can get some input despite being in relative shade.
Thanks!
Jon in AZ (who isn't at all technically savvy, unlike the Jon V also presently in AZ)

If Escape installed the Zamp solar port with reversed polarity, ther are two ways to fix this. One is to swap the wires from the port at the solar controller to correct the polarity back to SAE standards. The other way is to use a reversing plug to switch the polarities.

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Swi.../dp/B09B77C4YX

I bought my portable Lensun solar panel four years ago and it has been outstanding. They have them from 100w to 200w folding portables.

https://www.lensunsolar.com/

[Illinois Joe]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I rarely plug in and one 100W panel on the roof and two separate 12V batteries have worked fine for me for years.

I do have a spare flexible 100W panel that I use for shady areas and that would be my first upgrade if you find that you need more solar input.

Ron

I have one season of use with my 21NE and have found the same as Ron. We have one 190W panel and one portable 100W panel. We usually camp without electric plug in. I have only plugged in my portable panel once, and that was only to test it out. We did get the optional Zamp port to make plugging in portable easy when needed. I do see the carrying a portable panel as a "good to have" option in cases where trailer is parked in very shaded areas. Obviously how much electric you use has a big impact on necessity. FWIW, my sister and her husband are gearing up to boonedock while wanting to power two CPAP machines overnight. He has determined that he will need three 1000W portable power packs (portable batteries) and four 100W solar panels to get them recharged during the day.

I also don't like the design of having the second panel on the front of the trailer where it gets much higher wind forces trying to lift it off the trailer (and has caused several panel failures in the past).

[Greeneama]

We had ETI install 2 solar panels in our 2021 Escape 19’. This past February we spent a month in Big Bend NP without shore-power. Although we have a generator, we did not need to use it. Our 2 panels worked great. Bottom line, we recommend 2 panels.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I just upgraded my original 160W polycrystalline GoPower panel for a 360W LGE Monocrystalline panel. to do this, I had to replace the solar controller, with a Victron MPPT 100/30. The single 360W panel nicely fit behind my A/C on my 21 classic, but I had to remove the fridge roof vent (no longer needed due to compressor fridge).

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by Bcescapist

Hi Ron we are trying to figure out the best way to add a portable panel. We have the escape installed single solar panel. Unfortunately we didn’t get a zamp port. Two 6 volt batteries. We would like to attach a portable panel to the system for camping in trees etc as is often the situation on the west coast. Any ideas on best way to do this? I’m not an electrician and find it a bit confusing.

I simply ran the power through the 7-pin plug. I bought a socket identical to what's on my vehicle, cut a short extension cord in half, and wired a solar controller into the line. With the extension cord plugs stuck into each other I have a short run, but if the sunshine is farther away I can insert another ordinary extension cord (say, 25' or 50').

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Mike G

I simply ran the power through the 7-pin plug. I bought a socket identical to what's on my vehicle, cut a short extension cord in half, and wired a solar controller into the line. With the extension cord plugs stuck into each other I have a short run, but if the sunshine is farther away I can insert another ordinary extension cord (say, 25' or 50').

I strongly dislike using AC outlets and plugs for DC.

[Akfishman]

We bought the 140 watt Zamp portable Unregulated panel for less money than the second panel which is incapable of catching the full potential of the solar in a horizontal position. The portable comes with a cool case which slips right into the exterior door of your 21c under bed storage. You can break it out when you plan on boondocking and follow the sun depending on time of day.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I strongly dislike using AC outlets and plugs for DC.

Just curious, why?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Just curious, why?

Too easy to "accidentally" plug an extension cord into it.

Just do that one time and see how bad things get.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Too easy to "accidentally" plug an extension cord into it.

Not easy at all to do, if one has half a brain. What idiot would dream of plugging shore power through a solar controller into the trailer's 12V vehicle pigtail? Besides, I'm the only one hooking my stuff up and I surely know what the stuff is for. On top of that, if I am bringing out and connecting my solar panel, it is because there is no shore power (which will charge the batteries) to hook to, so the danger of error is infinitesimally low.

The extension cord hack I shared makes a good electrical connection and is a super-easy way to add more distance to sunlight for the panel when needed (and I have needed it, but I also don't want that extra cord in the circuit when not needed).

[HABBERDABBER]

Two 100W Lensun portables and several 12g wire extension cords with user made adapters to go from standard 110V plugs to MC4 connectors to the solar panels. Wires and plugs marked with polarity, they've worked for me. Used only when I need more length to catch some sun.

[Mike G]

Of course one can use whatever connectors one prefers, but the main point of my post #29 was that a special port is not necessary; the 7-pin cord will work to recharge the battery.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I like to park with my hitcy to the north, and my batteries are in the back, 20+ ft of wire from the hitch, so I installed a "trolling motor" plug near my batts, on a short awg 10/2 cable, with a 40A fuse. I have a pigtail with the trolling motor plug and a PP45 plug, as well as a PP splitter, and various PP connected accessories such as USB, cigar outlets, even a 400W inverter. my external solar panel also has a PP 45 so can plug into the same pigtail or splitter...

[richm]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Just curious, why?

Let's say one has a heavy 50 ft extension cord, 12 gauge.

One thing to consider is that at, say, 20 amps, that would have around a 4 V drop from the panels to the controller. The voltage drop is not as significant at 120V as it is at 12 V.

A MPPT controller might handle the lower voltage input, PWM much less so. One could try it and see whether the controller accepts it, and how performance is affected.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by richm

Let's say one has a heavy 50 ft extension cord, 12 gauge.

One thing to consider is that at, say, 20 amps, that would have around a 4 V drop from the panels to the controller. The voltage drop is not as significant at 120V as it is at 12 V.

A MPPT controller might handle the lower voltage input, PWM much less so. One could try it and see whether the controller accepts it, and how performance is affected.

Thank you for your response. I get it. I think my extension cords are 10' or 15', a fraction of the 50' you used. And I'm running a PWM, probably.

So what's the voltage drop for a 15', 12g cord? I'm too lazy to look it up, I guess.
And what I have has worked to charge the house batteries.
Voltage......Smoltage!

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Thank you for your response. I get it. I think my extension cords are 10' or 15', a fraction of the 50' you used. And I'm running a PWM, probably.

So what's the voltage drop for a 15', 12g cord? I'm too lazy to look it up, I guess.
And what I have has worked to charge the house batteries.
Voltage......Smoltage!

15 ft would have 3/4 of the voltage drop of 20 ft. 10 ft would have half the voltage drop. It's totally linear. For 30 amps you really want to use 10 gauge wire, and for very low voltage drop, like between a charge controller and the batteries being charged you probably want to use eight gauge. 10 or 20 ft of 8 gauge two conductor is some heavy stuff

Re mppt controllers, they're generally happier with higher voltages rather than lower. A pwm controller will drop the voltage without raising the amperage while an mppt controller will drop the voltage and raise the average so more watts get through