Safety chains save lives

[Mike Lewis]

In an unusual way this time:


https://www.foxnews.com/us/rescuers-...ep-idaho-gorge

[kavm]

Interesting story! These folks are incredibly lucky to be alive...

We are definitely planning to use safety chains for our 5.0 with Andersen Ultimate, inconvenient as they seem to be. In fact, the Andersen Ultimate I ordered is backordered but the chains that I bought separately have arrived.

[Great Eggstrications]

Malad Gorge is a great place to stop for a break - a nice rest and picnic area and a separate pedestrian walkway bridge on the slow-lane side of the east-bound bridge. Having walked over this bridge any number of times on our way from Seattle to Moab, we'll henceforth be looking over our shoulders. And will be slowing down prudently and as appropriate when in such cross-wind prone areas - as always. One of the follow-up news reports I saw suggested that trailer sway was involved, and that the speed limit on that stretch of I-84 is 80 mph (for non-towers).

Gonna go out and have a nice long look at my chains and hooks right now.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by kavm

We are definitely planning to use safety chains for our 5.0 with Andersen Ultimate, inconvenient as they seem to be.

I'm guessing that you know that chains (or cables, or at least one) are legally required in many places with any ball hitch, including the Andersen.
Hopefully you also know about the reversed mounting trick: leave the chains attached to the anchors in the floor of the truck box, and unclip them from the trailer when unhitching. That makes the end which you need to handle much easier to reach than the usual practice of leaving the trailer end attached and unclipping the truck end.

[Brian B-P]

Perhaps a rare case of an overly large trailer saving the tow vehicle - that F350 would have likely dragged an Escape over the with it. Of course, the driver may have lost control due to an excessively large trailer in the first place...

My guess is that Dave is on the right track with his comment about wind.

I'm impressed that the safety chain anchors on the trailer held.

[sofmerc]

I didn't know that trick, but it makes sense. Thank you for that!

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

wow hanging on the edge! That is amazing.

[kavm]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I'm guessing that you know that chains (or cables, or at least one) are legally required in many places with any ball hitch, including the Andersen.
Hopefully you also know about the reversed mounting trick: leave the chains attached to the anchors in the floor of the truck box, and unclip them from the trailer when unhitching. That makes the end which you need to handle much easier to reach than the usual practice of leaving the trailer end attached and unclipping the truck end.

Thank you, Brian B-P! I did not know most of that. So, all of that is welcome information.

The reverse mounting trick sounds good but I am a bit confused and need some advice!

• I am sending the threaded eyelet bolt (left) to ETI for them to install the coupler with. ETI will use an Andersen coupler from their stock and my eyelet bolts (chains require bigger eyelet bolts than those that come with Andersen Ultimate) on our trailer before delivering it to Sumas.
• That leaves two pieces with us: (a) The chain and (b) the loop. I am not clear on which end goes where. I share my guess below but would like a confirmation.
  • The head of the chain goes into the eyelet bolt on the coupler
  • The last link of the chain goes into the loop which somehow attach to the rails.

A slightly related question: I was looking into the Ft. Knox lock for the coupler. So, I emailed them mentioning that I will be using chains and trying to confirm whether the go in the coupler? They weren't clear what I was asking.

With your reverse mounting trick, the loop and the chain remain attached to the rails. Therefore, when unattached, the coupler is by itself on the camper, albeit with larger eyelet bolts. As such, it should be straightforward to enclose it with in the Ft. Knox lock. Is that right? I was mainly trying to figure out whether some installation is involved.

Any advice would be welcome!

[UncleTim]

Originally Posted by kavm

With your reverse mounting trick, the loop and the chain remain attached to the rails. Therefore, when unattached, the coupler is by itself on the camper, albeit with larger eyelet bolts. As such, it should be straightforward to enclose it with in the Ft. Knox lock. Is that right? I was mainly trying to figure out whether some installation is involved.

Any advice would be welcome!

Yes the lock box works well that way. That is the way I hook up too.

Leave them bolted to the frame and then tie the screw ends up with zip ties, so they can't unscrew and then just clip in when you hook up. The safety brake rides next to it unencumbered.

[kavm]

Thank you, Uncle Tim! Does the lock require an installation?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by kavm

The reverse mounting trick sounds good but I am a bit confused and need some advice!

• I am sending the threaded eyelet bolt (left) to ETI for them to install the coupler with. ETI will use an Andersen coupler from their stock and my eyelet bolts (chains require bigger eyelet bolts than those that come with Andersen Ultimate) on our trailer before delivering it to Sumas.

Sounds good.
The eyelets in this case are eye nuts, which work with regular type (but extra-long) bolts. Andersen used to optionally provide bolts with eyelets welded to the bolt heads, but this is a different setup.

Originally Posted by kavm

• That leaves two pieces with us: (a) The chain and (b) the loop. I am not clear on which end goes where. I share my guess below but would like a confirmation.
  • The head of the chain goes into the eyelet bolt on the coupler
  • The last link of the chain goes into the loop which somehow attach to the rails.

The "normal" installation uses the shackle (maybe what you're calling a "loop") to attach the plain end of the chain to eyelets on the trailer's coupler, then clip the hook on the other end of the chain to the anchor in the truck (which means reaching way down into the truck bed to hitch or unhitch).

In the suggested "reverse" mounting method, the hooks on the chain are clipped to the eyelets on the trailer's coupler when hitching up. The other (plain) end of the chain could be attached to the anchors in the truck using the shackles (and left attached with unhitching), but you may want to make the truck end more quickly removable so you have the option to take them out to avoid rattling when driving around without the trailer by attaching another hook instead of using the shackle.

[kavm]

Thanks a ton, Brian! This helps a lot! I like the idea of extra hook to attach to the shackle.

One final question - how to I make sure that I get a solid enough hook that does not compromise the integrity of the whole chain mechanism?

PS: Perhaps answering my own question - I noticed that hook on one end of the chain has G70 - 5/16 marking. So, if I buy any G70-5/16 clevis hook, I should be good. Right? Is there anything else I need to watch out for? Any reputable brand?

PPS: Is the following a good option? - https://www.amazon.com/CURT-81550-Sa.../dp/B000LOI6CO

[Mike Lewis]

When I posted the story I didn't realize where the incident took place. Assuming this is the I-84 bridge, I have driven over it a few times. Next time I'll have to remember to stop and check out the park.

[sofmerc]

Buy Crosby shackles made in the USA...You'll be fine. Just make sure they exceed the Safe working load strength of safety chains. Cheap Insurance.

[UncleTim]

Originally Posted by kavm

Thank you, Uncle Tim! Does the lock require an installation?

No not at all. It slips easily on and off.

I purchased the chain attachment when I bough the hitch.

You can see I have the chains attached in exactly the opposite way I now do it. But you can see the very solid clip attachment (at the front bottom). I muffled the whole thing by placing a little compressible foam between the B&W offset and the hitch attachment.

Hooking the little bolts like this is a royal pain in the arse. You have to unhook them every time. Tonight I bought a very nice cargo net that slips over the king pin and allows everything in the bed to ride securely. I will post pics when I get it installed.

[kavm]

Thank you! This gives me a good idea. I will have rails. I thought the chains would attach to that. But, looks like they are just attached to the Andersen Ultimate frame. Is it because you have a gooseneck hitch or is it the case even if you have rails?

This picture on the Andersen website seems to suggest that in case of rails - they attach to another part that goes with rails... Seems like the back rails...

https://shop.andersenhitches.com/pro...with-rail-tabs

[UncleTim]

Originally Posted by kavm

Thank you! This gives me a good idea. I will have rails. I thought the chains would attach to that. But, looks like they are just attached to the Andersen Ultimate frame. Is it because you have a gooseneck hitch or is it the case even if you have rails?

This picture on the Andersen website seems to suggest that in case of rails - they attach to another part that goes with rails... Seems like the back rails...

https://shop.andersenhitches.com/pro...with-rail-tabs

Yes it is because I have the Gooseneck with offset. It slips over the offset (not shown, cause its under everything). I know (actually pretty sure) the rails do have a way to attach the chain attachment.

[sofmerc]

I think if you have the rail version, there are "Tabs" that either accept the shackle end or the clevis hook. I have the rail version of the Andersen hitch and just ordered the safety chains. My 5.0 won't be ready until end of the year. This is the take that I get...I think I will put the shackle end on rail tabs, and the clevis hooks on Couple end,,,

[kavm]

sofmerc - As Brian B-P explained, it is possible to add a clevis hook on the other end of the chain and make the process a bit easier...

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by kavm

This picture on the Andersen website seems to suggest that in case of rails - they attach to another part that goes with rails... Seems like the back rails...

https://shop.andersenhitches.com/pro...with-rail-tabs

Yes, those black parts and the pins that hold them in the rail (or a similar equivalents of another brand) are the right anchors for the rail system.

The back rail is the preferred location for them.