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Old 05-10-2016, 08:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I don't understand? Which of the three width measurements is it?


486 mm = 19.1338583 inches
525 mm = 20.6692913 inches
632 mm = 24.8818898 inches
The current fridges are 525mm or 20.7" wide. Both of the new fridges, the RM2554 and the DM2663, are 24.88" wide.

That's a full 4" wider than the current ones, and no way they'll fit through the door.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:46 AM   #22
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Brian I am curious . I measured my doorway and have a good 22 in . I will be going to camping world soon and I was going to measure the Americana frig if one removed the door . Would you then be able to get the Americana in the door . Just wanted to know . My frig is now satisfactory now . I just will file this information away . Pat
It's not the door Pat, but the enclosure itself. See my post above.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:52 AM   #23
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Maybe you could take the door of the refer off unless these measurements already assume the door is off during install?
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:30 AM   #24
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That would be good information to know Pat! And I would appreciate it. While my single door works just fine too, Ten Forward is my forever trailer and would consider the Americana. I do not like the newer two door. The idea of needing to open the door to change the temperature is a major design flaw (IMHO). Why when the temperature is going up would you want to open the door so you can use the controls? Nutz. The Americana has the controls on the outside frame, just like the single door
Donna I will get the measurements . It will be next week . We have a RV dealer here in town , but I need the measurements of the whole box , not installed . If we had trouble with this frig and need to replace it , I see in the trailer magazine a company that can rebuild the frig . So all hope is not lost . Pat
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:34 AM   #25
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Pat


I've got a couple of links for refrigerator rebuilds:
US: Rv Refrigeration Repair
Canada: http://www.gammonsrv.com/12601.html
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:10 PM   #26
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I check my thermometer when I get something out of the fridge. So the doors already open for easy adjustment of the temperature controls.

Your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:14 PM   #27
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I check my thermometer when I get something out of the fridge. So the doors already open for easy adjustment of the temperature controls.

Your mileage may vary.
Yep YMMV. I have a thermometer that's outside the frig and a sensor inside the frig... so I see the temperature without opening the door.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:19 PM   #28
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:21 PM   #29
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What year do you think the industry will move to a residential "set n forget" system?
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:33 PM   #30
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What year do you think the industry will move to a residential "set n forget" system?
Even residential refrigerators traditionally have not had good thermostatic control to a target temperature; they run at a more stable interior temperature because they are operating in a much more consistent environment.

Just as better residential refrigerators have better temperature control, there is a variety within the RV refrigerator range. While many have a simple 5-level control (no specific temperatures - just like a small "dorm" or "bar" fridge), many have electronic temperature control. The one in my motorhome is electronically controlled (when it works - which is not a reliable thing )
but there is no way to set the temperature, so it always (again, when it runs at all) is a bit too cold.

Small RV refrigerators are bit like small home refrigerators: they are assumed to be for a low-price market, so they do not have the best features. I'm not holding my breath waiting to this to change, in an industry in which many components are the same as they were half a century ago.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:54 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
I measured my doorway and have a good 22 in . I will be going to camping world soon and I was going to measure the Americana frig if one removed the door . Would you then be able to get the Americana in the door .
I assume the idea is to fix the width problem by taking the refrigerator through the door turned sideways, so the limitation is the depth. I think that's a good plan to consider, but the depth (front to back) of the DM 2663 is shown as 662 mm (26"). Take the door off and it seems very likely that it is still substantially more than 22" deep.

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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
I see in the trailer magazine a company that can rebuild the frig .
The first time the refrigerator in our motorhome died, the whole thing was replaced (under warranty). When that one died a tech replaced the entire cooling unit with a remanufactured unit, keeping the same cabinet and controls. He said that the remanufactured units work more reliably than the new ones, due to the way the tubing joints are welded; it died a year or two later... or maybe it's the control board this time.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:28 PM   #32
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Even residential refrigerators traditionally have not had good thermostatic control to a target temperature; they run at a more stable interior temperature because they are operating in a much more consistent environment.

Just as better residential refrigerators have better temperature control, there is a variety within the RV refrigerator range. While many have a simple 5-level control (no specific temperatures - just like a small "dorm" or "bar" fridge), many have electronic temperature control. The one in my motorhome is electronically controlled (when it works - which is not a reliable thing )
but there is no way to set the temperature, so it always (again, when it runs at all) is a bit too cold.

Small RV refrigerators are bit like small home refrigerators: they are assumed to be for a low-price market, so they do not have the best features. I'm not holding my breath waiting to this to change, in an industry in which many components are the same as they were half a century ago.
I agree with all of this, but of course there's also the fuel source. Takes alot of power to run a fridge, and in an RV, propane (and therefore absorption) is still the best choice unless you have a ton of solar.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:10 PM   #33
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Well with summer and hotter temperatures on the way I was looking online and I noticed that the "Snip A Tip" replacement adjustable thermister is now available for the RM8555 series of fridges. So after talking to an RV tech who highly recommends them I think that I might have to look for a supplier in Canada. I believe that Zardoz had installed one and was happy with it in his 4.3 fridge. Has anyone else tried one yet?
8XXX Dometic Thermistor Repair Kit

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Old 05-10-2016, 04:38 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I don't understand? Which of the three width measurements is it?


486 mm = 19.1338583 inches
525 mm = 20.6692913 inches
632 mm = 24.8818898 inches
Top measurements are the fridge you have Donna, the lower portion of the image is the Americana. On your list the Americana is the 24.88" wide. In other words, fuhgeddaboudit.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:45 PM   #35
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Yeah Bob, I kinda figured that. Oh well, I'm fine with it. I can always futz around and keep the temperature down in both of my trailer fridges. In the 28 year old Scamp, that may be putting a block of ice in a container next to a fan. But at least I can say I've never lost food due to an overheating refrigerator. Sometimes all it takes is a bit of ingenuity!
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:02 PM   #36
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... but of course there's also the fuel source. Takes alot of power to run a fridge, and in an RV, propane (and therefore absorption) is still the best choice unless you have a ton of solar.
I agree, but even an absorption refrigerator can have good thermostatic control if the manufacturer builds it that way.

The biggest and fanciest RVs often simply use residential refrigerators; presumably they are always expected to be on the road (with engine running), in a campsite serviced with power, or running a generator. Since that doesn't work for most of us, the alternatives are propane-fired absorption, or high-efficiency compressor-based electric and a robust solar system. With the high-end units not driving mass production of nice control systems, the low-end refrigerators get primitive controls.
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