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Old 01-30-2021, 06:30 PM   #41
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Gotta love Escape Trailer Industries - they already got back to me with those photos of (I assume) a 2021 5.0 underbody. Looks quite similar to those posted by Rubicon:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5.0TA Pre Spray Foam (1).JPG (140.9 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg 5.0TA Pre Spray Foam (2).JPG (123.0 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg 5.0TA Pre Spray Foam (4).JPG (157.1 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg 5.0TA Pre Spray Foam (5).JPG (176.9 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg 5.0TA Pre Spray Foam (6).JPG (178.3 KB, 49 views)
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:08 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo View Post
I’m working on my options list, I have plenty of time for research but I am at a disadvantage due to this being my first camper.
I read where one persons regret was they would’ve had the heat pad installed at the factory then brought the trailer home, installed heat tape themselves around the pipes and applied the foam insulation lastly.
On the occasion I have to head back home for a week say, would this allow me park in my driveway while I handle things...plug in for a week then head back out away from winter weather-bypassing the winterization process?
Of course this depends on how cold you are referring to and for how long. Hovering around freezing at night with daytime high’s above freezing is different than sustained cold. Remember that the Escape is really a 3 season trailer. You need to be careful. The foam is more helpful in insulating the floor than protecting the water systems IMO. Your tank dump valves are still exposed and they will freeze regardless of heat tape since you can’t provide 120V to them while towing. Outside showers are highly vulnerable. The 5.0 also has a set of water lines that run across the bottom of the trailer. Even if you run your propane heater while traveling to protect your interior plumbing you still have lines/traps under the trailer outside the shell. My father towed a Scamp home from Florida in December and despite my warnings he froze the entire plumbing system solid. Thankfully PEX piping is forgiving and we thawed it out without issue. So if it was me I would drain all tanks (including hot water) and carry a high quality 12V compressor to blow out the water lines and dump a little antifreeze into each drain. Doesn’t take long and without antifreeze in the lines you can fill the system right back up for use when weather permits.

(Unfortunately newer trailers don’t have the low point drain like ours. We can open all faucets and throw the valve and drain the system. I believe Reace stopped when Thetford changed the design of the toilet flush valve and they retained water and some owners had them crack.)
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:43 AM   #43
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Thank you for the info...the low point valve would be great to have.
Unfortunately it can get way cold here, next to the Stl airport-big reason I’m getting the escape, also grandkids out of state...and cats.
I shouldn’t have to stay for long on my periodic return trips and then I be will driving right back into warmer weather asap.
On the site I see pictures of people in Canada camping in the snow, maybe they have ways to prevent freezing pipes without disabling the trailers water system.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:01 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo View Post
I’m working on my options list, I have plenty of time for research but I am at a disadvantage due to this being my first camper.
Leo, one this to take into account is that many members do additional options due to their own specific scenario, many do it just because others feel it is necessary, and others do it 'just in case'.

It is good to get the input from others, but do realize that many are justifying some of their own choices. I have heard of many touting the need for some options I don't have, using certain uses as the criteria, whereas I have exceeded their listed criteria and without the options have never had an issue like they are weary of.

This said, there is lots of great advise from members of this forum, many with a history in some areas in question. Do listen to what they have to say, but with a bit of time, even being a rookie, you will get a grip on what you need.

Remember too that even without a single option you can take your trailer and go make some wonderful memories, there are just a few comforts and conveniences that make the stay in the trailer better suit your needs. These needs differ a lot in different owners. Heck, I did a lot of modifications in a brand new trailer to get what we wanted, much of it done because I could. Also, to have options you may not really need is not likely to cause any troubles either.

As discussed many times, in both my Escapes I never opted for a lift axle, and really doubt I ever would if buying another Escape. I do boondock a lot and never had an issue.

Do enjoy the selection of options part of your purchase, it is a fun phase as you wait to get the trailer. There is no doubt you will be enjoying the ownership, as it is just a great amount of fun to travel to unique places and have some fun.
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:37 AM   #45
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I like the plan to install foam board after the build . But I don’t see how it would work. I have not had the opportunity to look under a escape . How and where would you attach the foam board ?
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:41 AM   #46
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I like the plan to install foam board after the build . But I don’t see how it would work. I have not had the opportunity to look under a escape . How and where would you attach the foam board ?
Just adhere it the the shell with adhesive. Nice and flat under there. Can't really do the tanks easily, but for me that is not an issue, and that is where the foam looks the worst to me.
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Old 02-03-2021, 11:06 AM   #47
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Going back and forth on the need of spray foam under the floor. Seems it could be a pain in the ass for maintenance
I like to take a look around at all the fittings. See what is loose or not Look for rust and cracks in places they shouldn't be.
I just can't do that with the lava flow underneath. You can cut the stuff away but you might cut the sensor wire as shown in the pic. Foam and forget is a thought though I would like some other type insulation.
But that's just me.
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Old 02-03-2021, 11:43 AM   #48
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Hello Joe B.
I installed 2 inch foam board on my 2017.It was around my 80 th birthday.Middle of July.About 80 F temp.Used the foam glue recommended by Home Depot.Cut and friction fit, then remove, paint with black Tremclad, install with adhesive.perfect look.No straps.Went to Arizona and back, no problem.Warmer floor and more quiet, looks good and smooth.Did not install on the tanks.
Go for it.
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Old 02-03-2021, 12:13 PM   #49
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that looks like pure happiness to me.
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Old 02-03-2021, 02:39 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marsman View Post
Gotta love Escape Trailer Industries - they already got back to me with those photos of (I assume) a 2021 5.0 underbody. Looks quite similar to those posted by Rubicon:
So hows that stuff respond to the water while driving in the rain? Could or would even want to paint it?
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Old 02-03-2021, 05:35 PM   #51
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I just got my 21 C 2. - 1/2 weeks ago. I have spent the better part of a week underneath POR15ing the thin steel frame coating, heavy undercoating on the axles, added additional intermediate tank straps on the grey and fresh water tanks to prevent the thin poly tanks from looking pregnant. Replaced stabilizers inbound fasteners with SS bolts. Had to replace the fresh water drain as it was leaking after filling it with 20 gallons of water to check out pumps. They had so much tape wrap on threads I am not surprised the threaded tank fitting did not split.

Did all this need to be done , probably not but every pict I have seen of others underside show considerable rust after a few years. I prefer to not have that issue. Had other issues inside which have been corrected. Did they need to be done. For me, yes.

Foam underneath will take all of the above away, as out of sight, out of mind.

Love my new Escape. So I would do the same to any trailer. My 31’ 1972 Airstream had zilch for rust on the frames when I sold it last September.
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Old 02-03-2021, 05:58 PM   #52
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So how did you do it on the Airstream

You're in a seaside salt environment, and me too...sort of....but different means of application. Mine is a road salt & snow environment.


So what is your process of POR15 application on a trailer frame?


Just looking for guidance.


bon voyage,


P.S. What is the vessel in your member picture? Name? Builder? Still sailing?
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:07 PM   #53
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Picked it up in spray cans. Black undercoat as axles were already rusting. Over coated other members with clear Topcoat. That way I did not have to mask off between frame and fiberglass. I noticed rust before it was unloaded off of delivery trailer 4 miles from my house.

Paint was new. Scuffed frame with green Scotch pad. Sprayed directly on metal.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:26 PM   #54
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Great idea on the clear coat, will you be adding your own insulation as the next step?
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:27 PM   #55
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Yes, but

Yes, but what is your sailing vessel? And are you still sailing?


Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-03-2021, 08:14 PM   #56
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Sorry, had to go get a beer and dinner with friends.

That was a vessel I purchased in 1983. It is a45’ John Seward design gaff rigged Ketch. Itwas built in 1969 in San Pedro, California, by a builder named Don Giron. It was the last vessel through the Panama Canal under the American ownership. A fine all wooden sailing vessel. Aries wind wave, no electronics, kerosene running lamps. 1000sf of canvas, displaced 28,000 #. On one of my long tacks to Mexico I forgot to set the vane, had lunch, came on deck half hour later and still running within 10 degrees of track line. Not many vessels can do that under free wheel.
Sold it years later and brought back my CSY 33 that I kept in the Bahamas. After 38 years of ownership Hurricane Harvey decided it wanted it. I now only have my 1957 Yellowjacket that I restored after 50 years of being in the back of my shop.
A land lubber now.
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Old 02-03-2021, 09:05 PM   #57
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I will probably not add insulation. . I will, if I feel the need. Not hard to do, as others have done. I like the clean look. If I add insulation, the foam board will need to be covered with something other than paint. Just my .02.
Why, I like whatever I put up to be durable.

I also have the high lift, and it is still tight crawling around under the undercarriage. Of course axles are the same height as no lift. I can’t imagine not having it. Of course probably 90% of owners are content with whatever they receive, as they have no intension or desire to be bottomside.
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Old 02-03-2021, 11:43 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marsman View Post
Gotta love Escape Trailer Industries - they already got back to me with those photos of (I assume) a 2021 5.0 underbody. Looks quite similar to those posted by Rubicon:

marsman, agree. Thanks for getting those and sharing !


I'm thinking the waterlines shown in pic #4 are running from the bath to the galley sink. I wonder if the dinette were a u shaped ETI would run them along the rear and curb side walls instead. I'd prefer that (not sure how it would impact the toilet shut off). If not, the foam option should cover them which would be a plus to me.
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Old 02-04-2021, 05:21 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Dcboyd View Post
I just got my 21 C 2. - 1/2 weeks ago. I have spent the better part of a week underneath POR15ing the thin steel frame coating, heavy undercoating on the axles, added additional intermediate tank straps on the grey and fresh water tanks to prevent the thin poly tanks from looking pregnant. Replaced stabilizers inbound fasteners with SS bolts. Had to replace the fresh water drain as it was leaking after filling it with 20 gallons of water to check out pumps. They had so much tape wrap on threads I am not surprised the threaded tank fitting did not split.
Did all this need to be done , probably not but every pict I have seen of others underside show considerable rust after a few years. I prefer to not have that issue. Had other issues inside which have been corrected. Did they need to be done. For me, yes.

Foam underneath will take all of the above away, as out of sight, out of mind.

Love my new Escape. So I would do the same to any trailer. My 31’ 1972 Airstream had zilch for rust on the frames when I sold it last September.
Rust is the kicker. We are debating getting the 21 and selling or Slightly rusted Casita. I would not be happy looking at the bottom of a new 21 and seeing any rust. If you foam it you can't see it.
I used sail my J 35 put the harness on set auto pilot fall asleep at the wheel but I'm still here. Sold the J to sleep better.
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:49 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Stephenz View Post
Did all this need to be done , probably not but every pict I have seen of others underside show considerable rust after a few years. I prefer to not have that issue. Had other issues inside which have been corrected. Did they need to be done. For me, yes.

Foam underneath will take all of the above away, as out of sight, out of mind.

Love my new Escape. So I would do the same to any trailer. My 31’ 1972 Airstream had zilch for rust on the frames when I sold it last September.
Rust is the kicker. We are debating getting the 21 and selling or Slightly rusted Casita. I would not be happy looking at the bottom of a new 21 and seeing any rust. If you foam it you can't see it.
I used sail my J 35 put the harness on set auto pilot fall asleep at the wheel but I'm still here. Sold the J to sleep better.

If you look at the enclosed pictures of the trailer getting foamed above you will notice the axles and lower brake housings are already showing signs of rust.

I did insulate the underbody exposed waterlines with pipe insulation. Easy to do.
Also had to re- tiewrap the tank sensor electric lines as they were looked like spare of the moment thought.
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