Which Impact Gun?

[Selkirk]

I received some cash from Santa and have decided to put it towards the purchase of a new cordless 1/2" impact gun.

Primary use will be to loosen lug nuts when performing a seasonal tire change on my TV and/or servicing the hubs on the trailer.

I'm leaning towards Milwaukee, as I already own some M12 and M18 tools. The big question is determining if a mid-torque model will be sufficient (such as the 2962 series)....or if I should bite the bullet and go for the larger/heaver/pricier high torque model (such as the 2767).

I'm curious to hear from those who have invested in one for a similar purpose....

[brroberts]

My M12 stuff is not sufficient for lug nuts and such. My DeWalt 20V is. So likely the M18 series would work well for you.

[Selkirk]

I should clarify that I'm only considering M18 impact gun models....just need to decide on either the "Mid-Torque" or "High-Torque" M18 variant.

[C&G in FL]

I use a Ryobi, not as good or expensive as Milwaukee and it readily removes lug nuts. I would expect either Milwaukee model would meet your needs.

[occer]

I have the M18 mid-torque with the three torque settings, it has been able to do any automotive tasks I’ve asked of it. Unless you are working on heavy equipment it’s more then adequate.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Selkirk

I should clarify that I'm only considering M18 impact gun models....just need to decide on either the "Mid-Torque" or "High-Torque" M18 variant.

I’ve had my 2763-20 Milwaukee since the spring of 2015. It’s been trouble free and since I have several 18 volt batteries from 5.0 to 9.0 I just snap one on and go to work. Most impressive is the tool’s ability to take off old rusty nuts that have been stuck for a long time. I had three or four “stingers” that I bought over the years or people gave me. Those heavy shaft nuts on the threaded ball shaft can get pretty hard to turn if you need to change ball size for the right raise or drop. The 2763 raps them a few times and turns them right off. I am using an older set of deep well impact sockets “Craftsman” made in USA . Black finish and have never split one of those. I do not use standard duty, high polish sockets with this tool.

I have the dual voltage charger so I can charge the 12 volts for my inflator, and caulk gun as well as the 18 volts for the Hackzall, drill driver, drill and circular saw. I don’t believe you’d benefit from a heavier unit unless you’re junking farm machinery on other very rusty stuff. That’s my experience.
Iowa Dave

[Selkirk]

Thanks for everyone's input. I decided to go the high torque route and ordered the big 2767. That way, I know it will be capable of handling virtually any automotive task I might ever throw at it. I also occasionally wrench on steam locomotives and other railway gear, where a more powerful gun would definitely come in handy (have to justify it somehow).

An equivalent consumer-grade Rigid or Ryobi model would probably be fine for my needs. However, I want to try to stay within one cordless ecosystem if possible. I have been happy with the other Milwaukee tools I own.

[Mike G]

This thread makes a big impact.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Selkirk

... I want to try to stay within one cordless ecosystem if possible. I have been happy with the other Milwaukee tools I own....

IMO / IME that's a primary consideration when 'going cordless' with whatever brand - it's great to have a variety of tools using interchangeable batteries using one charger, and as one's collection of tools with batteries grows one may choose to buy additional 'bare' tools-sans-battery at some savings.

Milwaukee or whatever. I happen to be on the DeWalt 20V system which has served me well as the collection has grown, starting with a 'sawsall' that included a high AH battery and charger, then over time an impact wrench, drill, and 3-1/2 Inch circular saw. All the same interchangeable 20V battery system with one charger and batteries of several AH ratings / physical sizes (sometimes handy to use a smaller battery, sometime a larger battery).

[Viajante]

Selkirk, I agree with you about the size of the impact wrench and staying with the M18 line of tools. It seems there will always be the one bolt or lug nut that is tougher than the others. Or the mechanic who over torqued the lugs when changing tires. You can hand torque a lug to exactly 85# but it takes a lot more than 85# to remove it.

[Randy in Maine]

Pick up a cordless recipricating saw with a tree blade while you are at it. Quite handy when camping.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Mike G

This thread makes a big impact.

That's a wrenching, speculative statement. OK, I'm done critiquing. This nut is about to bolt out of here.

[Kemco2019]

I use “No Cry” 1/2 inch impact driver, around $150 on Amazon. Works incredibly well & for a fraction of the brand name tools. If I was a full time mechanic in a shop, I’d by a brand name..

[Selkirk]

The cheaper options are indeed tempting. However, I tend to purchase higher quality tools from established brands and keep them forever.

The Hitachi-Koki pro-grade lithium 14.4v 1/2" drill that I purchased well over 15 years ago is still going strong....and it has not been babied. I switched to Milwaukee for my newest cordless acquisitions only because Koki/Metabo tools seem to not be as well distributed since they were sold off from Hitachi. Additionally, their updated battery platform is not backwards compatible with the stuff I own.

I'm confident that the M12/M18 platforms will be supported and components readily available for the foreseeable future.

Pro tip: If you have a Dyson cordless vacuum (like a V7) with a dead permanently attached proprietary battery, buy the M18 conversion kit from Amazon.

[Iowa Dave]

RE battery convertibility. I’ve stayed all Milwaukee cordless. On corded tools I have some Bosch, Makita and Porter Cable and like them too. I don’t do much climbing around work where a cord is a hassle so on “bench and sawhorse” work I don’t hesitate to go corded.
We always had air tool where I worked mostly CP and RoDac, I became a bigger fan of cordless tools when I bought the guys a cordless grease gun. Speed of greasing went up, frustration down, breakdowns from ungreased spindles went way down. When I learned the seasonals were arguing over who got to use a grease gun first so they could get out into the field and start mowing, I knew cordless grease guns were winners. I bought more.

54 grease zerks on the 21 foot Mott Interstater Flail mowers drawn and powered by an 80 horse Kubota tractor, greased every day and twice a day when in real wet conditions and heavy cutting, made me a believer in the old Axiom “grease is cheap and your best investment.”
Iowa Dave

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Kemco2019

I use “No Cry” 1/2 inch impact driver, around $150 on Amazon. Works incredibly well & for a fraction of the brand name tools. If I was a full time mechanic in a shop, I’d by a brand name..

I ride the fence on name brand tools and stuff in general. I have a mix of both in my arsenal. The problem with cordless tools is you are married to the battery system once you start, but I have a problem with "tool" companies when they start coming out with their own line of clothing.

[Selkirk]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

RE battery convertibility. I’ve stayed all Milwaukee cordless. On corded tools I have some Bosch, Makita and Porter Cable and like them too. I don’t do much climbing around work where a cord is a hassle so on “bench and sawhorse” work I don’t hesitate to go corded.

Agree....I'm less picky about sticking to a single brand for corded woodworking power tools. Mine are a mix of Hitachi-Koki, Bosch, Dewalt, and Milwaukee. I even have some old school Craftsman, Skil, and Black & Decker tools that are decades old. Most are still premium quality. I have little-to-no need to "upgrade" the majority of these to cordless. However, drills/drivers and mechanic tools like impact guns/etc are another story.

I think the next time Santa gives me some tool money, I'll be looking at a cordless grease gun, power ratchet, or maybe a pop riveter.

[iamunique127]

After I wore out some Dewalt batteries I moved to a Milwaukee M18 drill and it's been used a lot. It's still going strong.

I got a deal on a Makita 18V drill and driver set so decided to try them, too. The driver is holding up well but the chuck on the drill wore out early on.

Anything cordless from here on out will be Milwaukee.