12 volt compressor fridge.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Just speculating but based on information from ETI in post #11 maybe the DC558?
https://norcold.com/product/norcold-...-refrigerator/

Dave is there a reasonable small compressor fridge that would work with 2 6 volts and 180 watts solar and 80 watt portable and small Honda generator . Truck fridge ? Pat

[Flash]

Thanks for the reply. A 5.5 cu. ft. fridge with a draw of only 3.2A. I would think a solar panel would be able to keep up. I could see a larger fridge being more of a challenge to keep the batteries charged.

[fudge_brownie]

Cost me about $1,300 on my RMD 8555 for a main control board and an eyebrow board. Based on limited experience here on the forum the eyebrow board seems to has failed more often.

Originally Posted by ridinbarney

I wonder what kind of battery drain a compressor type 'fridge will use?

My 2015 Escape 19 has the Dometic RM 8551, and the control board is kaput. The control boards are hard to find, and cost a bundle. Over $500!

It sounds like the RM 8551 model has been problematic. Has anyone else had the control board go out?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Dave is there a reasonable small compressor fridge that would work with 2 6 volts and 180 watts solar and 80 watt portable and small Honda generator . Truck fridge ? Pat

Pat: I’m no expert but if I was looking the front runner would be Nova Kool. Probably the RFU6200.
Nova Kool, refrigerators, freezers, Marine, RV, Truck

They make smaller ones as well.

[Centex]

For those interested in compressor refrigerator / freezers the Nova Kool website really is a tremendous resource. It's their only business and they are very forthcoming with documentation from general to detailed covering virtually every aspect of their products.

This brochure is but one example, providing pics and specs for their entire line (though dated 2013 it's still current, an indication of how consistent their product line is over time, a characteristic I personally find reassuring).

From this our line up webpage one can click to get full details on each model, including detailed cut-out dimensions (the space required to install) and parts lists.

I encourage the curious to explore Nova Kool's website. IMO it's a much more user-friendly and forthcoming place than Norcold's site. (yeah, as I stated in post #11, I'm a bit disappointed that ETI seems to have selected Norcold as their vendor for compressor reefers, the availability of documentation having a role in that disappointment)

For we geeks interested in even more detail about the core Secop/Danfoss compressor units used in virtually all brands of RV compressor refrigerator/freezers, the Secop website is a resource for everything one could possibly want to know about those units. Info available on the Nova Kool website (model-specific parts lists) identifies the specific compressor unit used in each of their models, which in turn can be used to focus research on the Secop website.

One thing of interest to me about the Secop/Danfoss RV application compressors is that they are 'variable-speed' in that the running speed can be programmed for specific applications. As far as I can tell the compressor speed does not 'vary-on-the-fly' in operation. Nova Kool makes reference to this and the fact that they pre-set the speed for each of their model applications but that it can be field-adjusted for specific conditions (it does require an interconnect cable/device and PC software costing ~$400USD - it's not an adjustment that most users can/will undertake).

Just FYI

[Centex]

Just FYI, the table attached at this post may be of interest to those exploring compressor-type refrigeration in the 6+ cu ft range.

[friofreddy]

Originally Posted by ridinbarney

I wonder what kind of battery drain a compressor type 'fridge will use?

My 2015 Escape 19 has the Dometic RM 8551, and the control board is kaput. The control boards are hard to find, and cost a bundle. Over $500!

It sounds like the RM 8551 model has been problematic. Has anyone else had the control board go out?

A company called 'Dinosaur' makes replacement aftermarket control boards for Dometic and Norcold r v refrigerators. We replaced the unreliable board in an older Dometic RM2661, and had no more lockout problems after that. The Dinosaur board for our old trailer cost around $90.

[ScottJUtah]

Originally Posted by Tworainy

I had a Nova Kool 12V compressor fridge put in my 2014 17B to replace the Dometic absorption one in July. What an improvement!! Draw is very small at 2.2A, but doesn't need to run all the time. I have a first gen Escape, meaning the door is narrowest, but had no issues getting it in. I would HIGHLY recommend you consider one.
I used a solar panel to charge up the system, and never had any issues. My wife is finally happy!

Did you go with the AC/DC R3800 or the DC only? We also have a 2014 17B and desperately need to replace the Dometic 8551. My logic is DC only is fine since 1) we boondock most of the time and 2) when we are plugged in (usually at home) the batteries are recharging at, presumably, a faster rate than the fridge will be drawing down the batteries. Plus the DC only is a couple hundred $$ cheaper.

[Sean Murry]

I put in the larger NovaKool 12V compressor fridge in our Escape 19. Works amazingly well. We just went with DC. I don't see the andvantage of going AC/DC. When you are boondocking you are running DC only. When plugged in the converter will switch the AC to DC. To me the AC seemed like a waste of money

[ScottJUtah]

My thinking exactly - thanks Sean!

[cpaharley2008]

I had 12v compressor units in my T@da, very noisy at night with operation. The propane absorption set up is silent.......

[Sean Murry]

Noise is a relative matter. I can sleep through just about anything, whereas my wife is more sensitive to noise. We have the Novakool RFU8220 7.3 cu ft, and we do not find it too noisy. You can hear it come on, but it is by no means loud. Not sure if some compressor fridges are noisier than others, but in our case the Novakool is not an issue. It is quieter than the fan on the furnace that is for sure.

[Tworainy]

Originally Posted by ScottJUtah

Did you go with the AC/DC R3800 or the DC only? We also have a 2014 17B and desperately need to replace the Dometic 8551. My logic is DC only is fine since 1) we boondock most of the time and 2) when we are plugged in (usually at home) the batteries are recharging at, presumably, a faster rate than the fridge will be drawing down the batteries. Plus the DC only is a couple hundred $$ cheaper.

We opted for the AC/DC model, as it was less than C$100 difference for us. That being said, either option should do the trick...and that was to have a fridge that actually cools! The NovaKool option has made our food safe now. And the quick ice cubes are good, too!

[skiman]

Thinking about a 23 in my future. How are the compressor fridges on battery draw down? Don't do a lot of boondocking, but would equip the next one with solar like my 21. Thinking about a week at National Seashore campgrounds on Hatteras for instance. No hookups.

Sorry, didn't read the prior page of posts on performance with batteries. But any other comments welcome. Thanks.

[Sean Murry]

our 7.3 cu ft Novakook i think draws around 5 amps, but only while running. Depending on ambient temperature it runs maybe 1/2 the time, so basically 2.5 amps - 3 amps. We did install 4x100A Battle Born Lithium batteries, have the rooftop solar from ETI and have 2x100A portable solar units. Battery status with our set up has not been a problem

[dmc94572]

Might the Nova Kool RFU8220 fit thru the door and replace the Dometic 8551 as a "plug and play" in my 2014 19?

[Sean Murry]

The RFU8220 Fit through the door of my 2019 Escape 19, not sure about the 2014 first generation. It was a tight fit but it got through. In the case of our trailer build we asked Escape to make the cut out to suit the new fridge. The cut out dimensions of the RFU8220 was 52 7/8" High, 23 1/4" wide and 19 1/2" deep.
You would also have to tie off the propane connections. Novakool also recommends 10 gauge wire to power the fridge. Not sure what gauge Escape puts in the trailer normally for the 12V power supply.

[Mike Lewis]

I would like to replace my fridge with a compressor fridge. I'm looking at the NovaKool RFU 6800 but its 5.2 amp current draw gives me pause. So I intend to run an experiment to simulate the current draw of a compressor fridge on my trailer's 12V electrical system. I want to plug an incandescent bulb into the inverter, leave the trailer parked in the sun, then turn on the light and leave it on for several days while monitoring the batteries. Since the compressor doesn't run all of the time, what amperage should I try to draw with my experiment?

I know this won't be an exact simulation-- for instance, it doesn't account for opening the fridge door, which anyone who has seen me knows is a frequent occurrence. But it will give me some information. Right now I doubt my 12V system could keep up, but I'd like to test it.

[dmc94572]

I hear you! Solar panels and Inverters...the slippery slope for boondocking. Withthe pending lithium quad 100's, upgraded fresh solar panels, handy Honda EB2200 avail...as i downsized the roof AC to anew 9000BTU to be installed with Easy Start, and no microwave (so far) and besides the fit and vent issues with a Nova Kool 7.2 cf frig, its a puzzle.

[Sean Murry]

For the RFU8220 I don't think there will be any venting issues. The biggest thing would be the cut out, and of course the power issue. I have the 4x100A lithium batteries, 190W roof top solar plus 2 x100W portable solar. Before I got the portable solar panels, I did run out of battery power after 5 days. We were parked in the trees so got very little roof top solar. Had the generator so we were still good to go, but personally I hate using a generator. Since getting the 2x100W portable solar I have never been below 60% on my batteries.

The 7.3 cu ft RFU8220 uses 5.2 amps while running, and during a warm summer day (30 degrees C) the fridge seems to run roughly 1/3 of the time. That is not scientific as I haven't measured it precisely, just seems to be roughly the run time.

The fridge is a beauty in terms of working flawlessly and getting to temperature very quickly even on the hottest of days.