Our custom Lithium battery installation

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by DGLP

Agreed. The bus bar should be a standard item.

It was difficult to remove the nut from the stud on the power center. I had to cut off part of the topmost ring connector to be able to square up the wrench with the nut. There was such a thick stack of connectors on the stud and the nut is small. Odd size too.

A deep 6 pt socket worked much better than a open end wrench on mine

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by hugh

I think they've added it now. Or at least, my 2022 21C came with a bus bar above the WFCO power center, with all the ground connected.

Glad to hear.

[GTR guy]

Originally Posted by hugh

I think they've added it now. Or at least, my 2022 21C came with a bus bar above the WFCO power center, with all the ground connected.

I was able to get out and check my 21NE today and found the ground running from the bus bar to the frame. It was well concealed by running to the DC/DC charger wires and then out to the frame in a location I was not expecting.

How far into the floor have you guys run your screws to secure the battery? I am thinking of 1/2 inch into the floor should be secure enough and not cause any damage to the trailer.

Thanks to each of you for your help and guidance. I now feel ready to do this.

[DGLP]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

A deep 6 pt socket worked much better than a open end wrench on mine

Thanks John. The barrel of the uppermost connector was bent over the side of the nut. It didn’t allow a socket or wrench to seat and grip the nut. Box-end wrench worked okay after I cut the cable and barrel. Will have to dig through my deep sockets to see if I have that size.

Hope all is okay in/around Santa Cruz. Any damage to your home from the severe weather? Take care.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by GTR guy

I was able to get out and check my 21NE today and found the ground running from the bus bar to the frame. It was well concealed by running to the DC/DC charger wires and then out to the frame in a location I was not expecting.

How far into the floor have you guys run your screws to secure the battery? I am thinking of 1/2 inch into the floor should be secure enough and not cause any damage to the trailer.

Thanks to each of you for your help and guidance. I now feel ready to do this.

I found a spot where I could actually measure the sub-floor and it's 1/2 inch thick so that's what I used. So, your spot-on with your thinking.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Yeah, I used the fattest 1/2" screws I could, and figured the 1/8" thick alum bracket made them stick 3/8" into the floor so the points won't stick out into the water tank. I predrilled 1/4" or 5/16" deep with the correct size bit so the screws would have good bite into the ply.

[splitting_lanes]

I used 3/4 inch screws, so with the 1/8 inch aluminum angle, they go 5/8 inch into the floor.

I found that ETI used 3/4 inch in the floor on my trailer, so I felt safe with that length.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Yeah, I used the fattest 1/2" screws I could, and figured the 1/8" thick alum bracket made them stick 3/8" into the floor so the points won't stick out into the water tank. I predrilled 1/4" or 5/16" deep with the correct size bit so the screws would have good bite into the ply.

actually, I believe I used 5/8" screws, figuring the linoleum on top of the 1/2" ply plus the 1/8" alum brackett was sufficient.

[MD-Escape]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

actually, I believe I used 5/8" screws, figuring the linoleum on top of the 1/2" ply plus the 1/8" alum brackett was sufficient.

Like others I placed pieces of angled aluminum from the hardware store to go around my batteries. I fastened them to the floor using E-Z LOK type threaded wood inserts. Grabs the plywood subfloor really well and won't ever pull out. Obviously you want to use ones that are 1/2" long and put a stopper on your drill bit so you don't go through the floor!

[RF Paul]

I’ve been reading this and other lithium-related threads in search of an answer to the question: What does ‘lithium-ready’ really mean? I’m working on a build sheet for a 5.0, with a completion date of June 2023. I can’t decide whether to order lithium-ready and purchase a battery separately, or bite the bullet and pay what seems like a lot of dough for the ETI installed batteries. The big determining factor for me is how much re-wiring, and how many other components (shunts, fuses, monitors) I would have to install along with the battery if I go with the lithium-ready option. I’m fairly handy, but not very electrically savvy. I was hoping that with lithium-ready I can just unhook and take out the lead acid battery and install and reconnect the cables to my new lithium battery. Is that wishful thinking? I plan to also get two solar panels installed along with the 1500 watt inverter and electrical management system with surge protector.

[splitting_lanes]

Originally Posted by RF Paul

I’ve been reading this and other lithium-related threads in search of an answer to the question: What does ‘lithium-ready’ really mean? I’m working on a build sheet for a 5.0, with a completion date of June 2023. I can’t decide whether to order lithium-ready and purchase a battery separately, or bite the bullet and pay what seems like a lot of dough for the ETI installed batteries. The big determining factor for me is how much re-wiring, and how many other components (shunts, fuses, monitors) I would have to install along with the battery if I go with the lithium-ready option. I’m fairly handy, but not very electrically savvy. I was hoping that with lithium-ready I can just unhook and take out the lead acid battery and install and reconnect the cables to my new lithium battery. Is that wishful thinking? I plan to also get two solar panels installed along with the 1500 watt inverter and electrical management system with surge protector.

That’s what we did, and why we did it. It’s not wishful thinking, but, you will need to do a little research and work to install lithium batteries.

Lithium batteries don’t off gas, so it’s pointless to put them in a vented box that is required for LA batteries. From what I hear, Canadian law requires vented boxes for all batteries, so even if you buy the lithium batteries from them, they will still be in a vented box. That’s a little bit of a downgrade in my opinion, as lithium’s do better in ‘room temperature’ environments.

ETI installed wiring is somewhat inefficient, there was a good 10 feet of wire between the battery and the power converter. I cut it down to three feet, and immediately noticed an improvement in charging amperage. The thing is, when I was thinking I could just plunk in the lithium battery, I was wanting to avoid buying crimping tools, cutters, and wire connectors. I had to buy those tools to do the installation correctly, and that was close to $100. If you notice in this thread, I did the battery upgrade in two phases, first the physical installation, thinking that would be it, then the rewiring. I was hoping to get away without rewiring things, but you can’t fully take advantage of lithium with the factory installed wiring, and that bugged me.

After upgrading the battery, and the wiring, we are really happy with that aspect of the trailer. We have it parked in our side yard, and use the trailer frequently as a room to escape others in the house, ie. Video conferencing, etc. We use the battery to run a small electric heater, lights, computer/ phone chargers, and then recharge it as needed. Works great for us in a milder climate.

Lithium ready means you won’t need to replace any of the major electronics due to lack of compatibility, but some on this forum have replaced things with even better solutions. Your mileage may vary.

[Perry Butler]

With our 2018 Escape 5.0, ETI wired the controller positive to the WFCO and the negative to the stack of negative ring connectors on the back of the WFCO? WTH? When charging, the GoPower’s voltage was .1 to .3 volts higher than the voltage of the Victron 712. When I replaced the GoPower controller with a Victron 100/30 nothing changed. Upon adding the three 100 watt panels I traced the wires to find that poor wiring scheme. Once I removed and terminated the ETI equipped wires and correctly ran new wires, positive to the battery and negative to the 712, the Victron controller and the Victron read the same voltage.

Folks, your positive wire from the controller should run directly to the positive battery post, and your negative wire should run directly to your negative post or the trailer side of the shunt if you want cooler wires and slightly more yield from you panels. Plus, good electrical practice says you should never have more than three ring connectors on one post and some say only two. ETI wired eight ring connectors to the ground post behind our WFCO, again, WTH! That stack was corrected with a bus bar for the new owners.

Food for thought,

Perry

[SRS]

Originally Posted by RF Paul

I’ve been reading this and other lithium-related threads in search of an answer to the question: What does ‘lithium-ready’ really mean? I’m working on a build sheet for a 5.0, with a completion date of June 2023. I can’t decide whether to order lithium-ready and purchase a battery separately, or bite the bullet and pay what seems like a lot of dough for the ETI installed batteries. The big determining factor for me is how much re-wiring, and how many other components (shunts, fuses, monitors) I would have to install along with the battery if I go with the lithium-ready option. I’m fairly handy, but not very electrically savvy. I was hoping that with lithium-ready I can just unhook and take out the lead acid battery and install and reconnect the cables to my new lithium battery. Is that wishful thinking? I plan to also get two solar panels installed along with the 1500 watt inverter and electrical management system with surge protector.

IMO, you should contact Dustin at Parts and Service, he's always been very helpful. We ordered our 2022 17A with the lithium option and two HubLion 100A batteries. Around that time, ETI seemed to be switching from GoPower solar controllers to Victron and using a Victron Shunt. The main component in the Lithium option is a Victron DC-DC Charger. Ours has a plywood panel with two fuses and and the shunt mounted on it. The fuses may have more to do with the inverter than the lithium option.

While the HubLion batteries are pricey, the seem to be pretty good particularly because of their operating temperature specifications. They have built in heating that probably requires being plugged in to shore power, but is nice to have.

While maybe not perfect yet, ETI's wiring has improved. Our trailer has a ground bus-bar rather than a bunch of ring connectors stacked on a grounding post. Our batteries were installed in the boxes on the bumper which actually made it easier to move the batteries inside. I did have to buy a cable cutter/crimper, lugs and other things but I learned a lot in the process.

[DGLP]

Originally Posted by SRS

IMO, you should contact Dustin at Parts and Service, he's always been very helpful. We ordered our 2022 17A with the lithium option and two HubLion 100A batteries. Around that time, ETI seemed to be switching from GoPower solar controllers to Victron and using a Victron Shunt. The main component in the Lithium option is a Victron DC-DC Charger. Ours has a plywood panel with two fuses and and the shunt mounted on it. The fuses may have more to do with the inverter than the lithium option.

While the HubLion batteries are pricey, the seem to be pretty good particularly because of their operating temperature specifications. They have built in heating that probably requires being plugged in to shore power, but is nice to have.

While maybe not perfect yet, ETI's wiring has improved. Our trailer has a ground bus-bar rather than a bunch of ring connectors stacked on a grounding post. Our batteries were installed in the boxes on the bumper which actually made it easier to move the batteries inside. I did have to buy a cable cutter/crimper, lugs and other things but I learned a lot in the process.

Now that you've move the batteries inside, how far are the batteries from the inverter?

[SRS]

Originally Posted by DGLP

Now that you've move the batteries inside, how far are the batteries from the inverter?

Not far, Maybe 18". The inverter is the yellow and black thing in the lower right corner.

[Grasshog]

I am also picking up my 5.0 in late May or early June. I also ordered the lithium package. My question do I have to have a conversation with escape to make sure mine is wired properly like yours? Not sure how I should go about this. I want a different battery as well and ask can’t I just bring my battery with N install it? I really don’t want to have to do a bunch of wiring after I pay the premium for the lithium, thanks in advance. This is great information.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

I am also picking up my 5.0 in late May or early June. I also ordered the lithium package. My question do I have to have a conversation with escape to make sure mine is wired properly like yours? Not sure how I should go about this. I want a different battery as well and ask can’t I just bring my battery with N install it? I really don’t want to have to do a bunch of wiring after I pay the premium for the lithium, thanks in advance. This is great information.

Not quite sure who this question is directed to, but I'll give it a shot. The 5.0's batteries are housed inside the trailer and probably in a vented box. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. How ETI sets this all up is unclear to me and the box they install may limit your battery choices. Lithium batteries come in different sizes. The trailer has to be delivered so it can be legally towing which includes the trailer breakaway emergency brakes and that requires a battery. Someone commented on the forum that if you opt to install your own batteries, ETI has to install a battery for the brakes so you will be charged for that battery.


IMO, you really need to call ETI to see what they will and will not do.

[DGLP]

Originally Posted by SRS

Not far, Maybe 18". The inverter is the yellow and black thing in the lower right corner.

Very nice setup. I have purchased battery holders with similar straps. How is the strap working out for you?

[RF Paul]

I appreciate all the great responses to my inquiry. I am planning on contacting ETI in the next few days and will post what I find out.

[Grasshog]

Thanks for that,,the question was just a general question. It’s kind of a bummer that you have to pay a premium for a battery ,,Those batteries have come down in cost. Oh well not that big a deal thanks again all this information is helpful. I’m just trying to have all my ducks in a row the day I pick it up??between the table the microwave and the lithium set up. Looks like I’ll have plenty of “mods” to do