Rear window size for replacement on 2021 21C

[rcsb]

I would like to replace my one piece factory rear window in my 2021 21C with another window. Does anyone know the following questions - cut out size dimensions (H x W), corner radius & wall thickness is? Thank you

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by rcsb

I would like to replace my one piece factory rear window in my 2021 21C with another window. Does anyone know the following questions - cut out size dimensions (H x W), corner radius & wall thickness is? Thank you

I need to replace mine (2015) due to moisture getting between the panes and fogging. May I ask why you are replacing yours? And fyi, so far I have not been successful in removing the old one. Now waiting for a warm sunny day since Escape suggests aiming the rear to the south and let things warm up.

[rcsb]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

I need to replace mine (2015) due to moisture getting between the panes and fogging. May I ask why you are replacing yours? And fyi, so far I have not been successful in removing the old one. Now waiting for a warm sunny day since Escape suggests aiming the rear to the south and let things warm up.

I'm looking into other window options for a vented rear window. & need the dimensions before I pull it out.

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by rcsb

I would like to replace my one piece factory rear window in my 2021 21C with another window. Does anyone know the following questions - cut out size dimensions (H x W), corner radius & wall thickness is? Thank you

On a 2021, I would just pull the window and make a template. Without pulling it all you can get will be from the existing window frames, and those are not exactly what the cutout is..............If you order from Duncan/ Lippert, they will want info from the existing window and inside frame trim ring tags anyways. The 2 piece frameless would be an easy swap I believe...(though $$$) ....check with ETI on same sizing approach for that. (my kitchen window was )

I have pulled / reinstalled / replaced (frameless for a framed kitchen) a few of the smaller windows (bath and door) on my 2022 E19. There is no sealant, just a rubber gasket. Takes 5 minutes. The gasket is reusable to reinstall an existing window.

Curious if Alanmark has sealant on his 2015 MY unit?

Not sure when ETI made the switch to gaskets, but I think your 2021 has gaskets. You can see the gasket, if present, around the exterior of the window frame. Check with ETI.

The screws in the interior trim ring holds everything together.

For a rear window, I would suggest 3 folks for the job. 1 inside and 2 outside to hold the window.

Be careful with the interior trim ring and the interior vinyl...........

Edit - if you order from Duncan / Lippert, order some of the window gasket fron ETI, as they use a "custom" rubber d- ring gasket versus the cheaper foam gasket that Duncan/Lippert will supply

[7Gentex]

Take a good look at how the rear window plane, as you go up to the top of the window, is sloped toward the front of the trailer.

ETI mentioned this in one of their "option videos" covering slider (framed) versus "frameless" windows as why only fixed/ framed, or the top hinged frameless were offered options. A top hinged window may be the best choice as most other options may leave you open to rain / roof runoff water intrusion.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by 7Gentex

...
Curious if Alanmark has sealant on his 2015 MY unit?

The screws in the interior trim ring holds everything together.

For a rear window, I would suggest 3 folks for the job. 1 inside and 2 outside to hold the window.

Be careful with the interior trim ring and the interior vinyl...........

I can not verify if sealant was used or not. Nothing like sealant is visible.


All the screws in the trim ring have been removed. My brother-in-law and I both pulled as hard as we could on the trim ring and nothing budged. I am worried about doing serious damage to the vinyl. Escape has suggested lots of warmth and using a screwdriver as a lever. I am waiting for spring and sun. Will use the screwdriver approach as a last resort.

[rcsb]

Originally Posted by 7Gentex

Take a good look at how the rear window plane, as you go up to the top of the window, is sloped toward the front of the trailer.

ETI mentioned this in one of their "option videos" covering slider (framed) versus "frameless" windows as why only fixed/ framed, or the top hinged frameless were offered options. A top hinged window may be the best choice as most other options may leave you open to rain / roof runoff water intrusion.

7Gentex, you supplied some great advice & information for my rear window change. I believe Escape is no longer using the rubber gasket for window sealing & has gone to Butyl putty tape after my phone call to Escape last week. I was at the Quartzsite fiberglass rally this week & had the opportunity to look at multiple escape trailers having the frameless window installed. It seems the newest (latest) generation of frameless windows (around late 2022 to early 2023) has a change in design which can't be modified to open wider like others have done with the older (earlier) design. I'm looking to increase ventilation airflow in the rear dinette area of my 21C. My thought was a custom made slider much like the Casita 17SD rear window has. You mentioned the 21C rear windows forward on top slope that could allow water leaks using a rear slider window design, maybe opening the window only during dry weather, not when raining will prevent water leaking inside.

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by rcsb

...... I believe Escape is no longer using the rubber gasket for window sealing & has gone to Butyl putty tape after my phone call to Escape last week. .........

Weird - butyl tape is a step backwards IMHO...(been there, done that)...........though I have NOT removed my rear window (framelesss / top hinged) to verify how that one is installed. Maybe they had some leaking / install issues? Trim ring has to be torqued down "evenly" for a good seal............

Believe the front windows are a different design / install approach than all the rest as well........head first into driving rain while towing is a different animal.

I do have the newer frameless rear window that can't be "retrofitted" to open wider, along with the "new" non-screened (useless for ventilation) emergency egress window. One side slider and the rear opened works good enough ventilation wise for me (MaxxFan and other windows open as needed as well).........though I have a queen bed in the back versus a dinette.........YMMV

There are some generic magnetic screen deals for that emergency egress window that may help.......?


Good luck sir........

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Escape has suggested using a screwdriver as a lever. I am waiting for spring and sun. Will use the screwdriver approach as a last resort.

You have good instincts. Using a screwdriver on an aluminum frame can do a lot of damage.

The correct tool is a thin putty knife, inserted carefully and worked sideways until the bond is broken.

Ron

[rcsb]

Originally Posted by 7Gentex

Weird - butyl tape is a step backwards IMHO...(been there, done that)...........though I have NOT removed my rear window (framelesss / top hinged) to verify how that one is installed. Maybe they had some leaking / install issues? Trim ring has to be torqued down "evenly" for a good seal............

Believe the front windows are a different design / install approach than all the rest as well........head first into driving rain while towing is a different animal.

I do have the newer frameless rear window that can't be "retrofitted" to open wider, along with the "new" non-screened (useless for ventilation) emergency egress window. One side slider and the rear opened works good enough ventilation wise for me (MaxxFan and other windows open as needed as well).........though I have a queen bed in the back versus a dinette.........YMMV

There are some generic magnetic screen deals for that emergency egress window that may help.......?


Good luck sir........

Frameless Windows opening mechanism...attached is the Lippert changes effective on 9-21-21 to replacing worn or broken opening mechanisms for Frameless windows. The shorter 4 inch arms p/n 236886 is the only arms available from lippert, the earlier 7 & 9.5 inch arms are no longer available. I hope this helps others

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by rcsb

Frameless Windows opening mechanism...attached is the Lippert changes effective on 9-21-21 to replacing worn or broken opening mechanisms for Frameless windows. The shorter 4 inch arms p/n 236886 is the only arms available from lippert, the earlier 7 & 9.5 inch arms are no longer available. I hope this helps others

Not sure if that reply was for me.........as I already have the 4" operating arms.........as stated.

But, which gasket were you trying to replace? Glass to frame or frame to trailer?

You may be able to open up the hinge track with some careful screwdriver work........

FYI - a whole new bath window / frame will run sub $400 from Duncan / Lippert

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

You have good instincts. Using a screwdriver on an aluminum frame can do a lot of damage.

The correct tool is a thin putty knife, inserted carefully and worked sideways until the bond is broken.

Ron

I wouldn't use a metal putty knife which traditionally most are. I have removed two trim rings and they were both very difficult. My theory on that is over time condensation, along with fine particles end up becoming a bond.

It is not difficult to abrade the vinyl even with a plastic tool. One needs to use a heat gun and go slow with the process. Probably spent the larger part of an hour on the second one recently. I had taken it off to get at the label to be sure of the correct size. While I wait for the replacement window, I put the trim ring back on with silicone spray on the metal that is secured against the vinyl. Hoping it will be much easier to remove the second time.

If I do this again I would first use some Blaster or other penetrating solvent across the top and start there first. There is a seam at the top of the trim ring and once you get that free from the vinyl one could continue using the solvent if in fact that worked to begin with along the top of the trim ring.

Here are an example of some nylon pry tools from Amazon; I bought mine from Harbor Freight.

https://www.amazon.com/Foncnci-Durab...c92e54c78&th=1

[alanmalk]

[QUOTE=Rossue;463671]I wouldn't use a metal putty knife which traditionally most are. I have removed two trim rings and they were both very difficult. My theory on that is over time condensation, along with fine particles end up becoming a bond.

It is not difficult to abrade the vinyl even with a plastic tool. One needs to use a heat gun and go slow with the process. Probably spent the larger part of an hour on the second one recently. I had taken it off to get at the label to be sure of the correct size. While I wait for the replacement window, I put the trim ring back on with silicone spray on the metal that is secured against the vinyl. Hoping it will be much easier to remove the second time.

If I do this again I would first use some Blaster or other penetrating solvent across the top and start there first. There is a seam at the top of the trim ring and once you get that free from the vinyl one could continue using the solvent if in fact that worked to begin with along the top of the trim ring.

[QUOTE]

I'm in the same boat - need to remove the back window and the trim ring is very stuck. Escape recommended the heat method and suggested a hot day with the window pointing south. I'll be trying that later this spring. But I am uncomfortable about using any solvent for 2 reasons. 1 is permanently weakening of the vinyl and 2 is long-term odor. I don't know if either is true - just something I worry about. My other option is living with window fog, and this might be my only choice.