Awning & belly band alert for 2nd Gen trailers

[Kountrykamper]

As the awning is closing make sure the rail end is not below the casing ramp as shown in the 1st picture. If the awning hooks under the ramp is where the damage could occure. I had to pull down on the awning to get it in this position but if your awning angle was adjusted too low this is what could happen.

It should contact the ramp as shown in the 3rd picture.

Can someone please rotate the pictures again. Thanks

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Yes that's it. I would bet Dometic will come out with a different end cap for the rail with a more round part instead of a hook going up another hook shape ramp after they replace a few awnings. If it is adjusted up (5 degrees) it does not seem like it would be a problem if it auto retracted. Just something I need to get use to watching for now.

Can someone please rotate my picture in post 31.

Is the lower guide piece that is attached to the Escape body unique to Escape? It is not in the installation book and I do not see it elsewhere.

[thoer]

Thanks for those pictures Tom.

[Kountrykamper]

Since it has finally stopped raining I was able to pull the trailer out this morning preparing for our up coming trip. I reread the installation and operating manuals and studied the awning operation.

Our awing was set up to be lower in the front for water run off. Since I always set up the trailer to be lower in the back this caused our awning to end up level after we get setup. In the installation instructions it tells how to change the pitch on the awning. I was able to raise the front up and lower the back of the awning so when I am set up with the back of the trailer lower for A/C and rain water run off, now the awning will also be lower in the rear for water run off.

There has been a lot of discussion about not being able to pitch the new awning. The electric awning can be pitch actually quite a bit and considerably more than I pitched ours. It is a preset pitch and requires a adjustment to change which is actually quite easy once I studied and understood how everything worked. It is not something you would want to do at a campground when setting up though.

I also looked at how the rail goes up the ramp again as mentioned earlier. In the installation manual there is also an adjustment for the rail angle. I found ours to be off and after finally finding the adjustment screw that was covered with tape was able to make a slight adjustment on the rail angle. Now my rail touches only slightly on the very top part of the ramp when closing and my awning closes much tighter and better.

Here is a picture of where the rail angle adjustment screw is located.

I know these adjustments are not something everyone is going to be comfortable making but I just thought I would post this information to get more information out there about the new awning.

[cpaharley2008]

Tom, what is the difference between awning pitch and rail angle? How do you determine if your angle is not correct? I'm aware of pitch issues, but rail angle is new to me?

[freespirit]

thanks Tom for the pics...

Originally Posted by wetzk

Is the lower guide piece that is attached to the Escape body unique to Escape? It is not in the installation book and I do not see it elsewhere.

similar thinking...
another random thought...perhaps Dometic designed this awning to be mounted on the vertical flat side of a trailer and NOT in a recessed area on the roof of a trailer. Is there another trailer other than ETI that has this awing in a recessed area on the roof versus a vertical flat wall?

Wondering if the two bent "ramp" pieces riveted to the top of the recessed fiberglass to guide the awning up, are they an actual Dometic Part ?
OR
Are the two bent "ramp" pieces a part made by ETI to try to alleviate the awning scraping the edge of the fiberglass at the roof line/recessed area and in providing this "ramp" part as it is currently made , perhaps resulting in this awning having this "hook" issue on retraction?

It seems on a vertical flat wall trailer these "ramps" would not be required and probably not have this "hook" issue, thus the design of the lower part of the Dometic awning enclosure and awning lip as it currently is.
Just guessing but it seems that if you wanted to recess this awing and nobody's saying you should, then it should be recessed less than the width of the lower cutaway part of the actual awing enclosure such that no part of the retractable awing itself is included in the recess depth. Perhaps a better recess dimension might allow the awning to droop on extension and retraction and not hit trailer side wall... all without requiring a "ramp" to guide it up and over the trailer's edge of the recess. Looking at Tom's posted pics of the end of the awing enclosure and roof edge, it seems that a fiberglass recess depth of perhaps a third to half of what it currently is, would eliminate the need for the "ramps" and the "hook" issue. Yes, if the awing was recessed less the awing enclosure would stick out a bit from the trailer , but perhaps function over looks is better.
Another fix possibly..if ETI makes the "ramps", then perhaps they can just make the angled extended part longer to accommodate the droop of the awing better and start "ramping" sooner when retracting.

A What If
IF its true this "ramp" is an ETI part
AND IF Dometic is not responsible for an integrator/trailer mfg application of the awning
THEN Dometic may not replace an awning if a specific trailer mfg's "hook" issue results in damage to the awing on retraction.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Tom, what is the difference between awning pitch and rail angle? How do you determine if your angle is not correct? I'm aware of pitch issues, but rail angle is new to me?

I would suggest reading the installation instructions and making sure you fully understand them before doing anything.

In the manual they call it "Fabric Slop". Basically how much downward tilt the awning fabric has. Page 10 of the manual.

The outer rail adjustment is called "Rail Alignment" on page 13 of the installation manual. It is how the rail aligns with the case.

You must be very careful you do not cause the arms to catch on the case and do not mess with that adjustment on page 11.

If you are going to the rally I suggest talking with Reace about it.

Originally Posted by freespirit

thanks Tom for the pics...


similar thinking...
another random thought...perhaps Dometic designed this awning to be mounted on the vertical flat side of a trailer and NOT in a recessed area on the roof of a trailer. Is there another trailer other than ETI that has this awing in a recessed area on the roof versus a vertical flat wall?

Wondering if the two bent "ramp" pieces riveted to the top of the recessed fiberglass to guide the awning up, are they an actual Dometic Part ?
OR
Are the two bent "ramp" pieces a part made by ETI to try to alleviate the awning scraping the edge of the fiberglass at the roof line/recessed area and in providing this "ramp" part as it is currently made , perhaps resulting in this awning having this "hook" issue on retraction?

It seems on a vertical flat wall trailer these "ramps" would not be required and probably not have this "hook" issue.
A What If
IF its true this "ramp" is an ETI part
AND IF Dometic is not responsible for an integrator/trailer mfg application of the awning
THEN Dometic may not replace these awnings if the "hook" issue results in damage to the awing on retraction.

The ramps are attached to the trailer and are a separate piece but appear to be a accessory of the awning or else someone did a very nice job making them and having them power coated. ETI could answer your question better than I.

Dometic is already replacing the one awning that was damaged under warranty.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

I would suggest reading the installation instructions and making sure you fully understand them before doing anything.
The ramps are attached to the trailer and are a separate piece but appear to be a accessory of the awning or else someone did a very nice job making them and having them power coated. ETI could answer your question better than I.

If we did that, how would we speculate and predict doom and gloom?

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If we did that, how would we speculate and predict doom and gloom?

Exactly

[wetzk]

I was not predicting doom and gloom just curiosity since I could not find these parts in the manual or elsewhere. Ours is fine, the front just barely touches the guide and the rear touches about 3/8 inch back.

Since I was doing all this checking I went ahead and adjusted the lead rail to remove the 7/16 gap in the front, I got it down to 1/8 and figured that was close enough.
Did you check the torque on the cap screws? I found 3 of the 4 were less than 140 inch pounds. One took almost 2 turns before it clicked. I had both of my torque wrenches recalibrated at the end of March. Since I did not change anythings as far as sloop or height these should have been tight. Dometic must not check them.

[Kountrykamper]

I had 1 that was loose

[Red Dog]

I think we could use a short tutorial at the Osoyoos Rally to show those of us with the electric awning how to make these adjustments. Seeing someone demonstrate the procedure makes much more sense to me than "reading the manual"...


Fred M.

[cpaharley2008]

Fred, excellent suggestion, how about emailing Escape with it and maybe we all can attend a 30 minute seminar.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by freespirit

thanks Tom for the pics...


similar thinking...
another random thought...perhaps Dometic designed this awning to be mounted on the vertical flat side of a trailer and NOT in a recessed area on the roof of a trailer. Is there another trailer other than ETI that has this awing in a recessed area on the roof versus a vertical flat wall?

Wondering if the two bent "ramp" pieces riveted to the top of the recessed fiberglass to guide the awning up, are they an actual Dometic Part ?
OR
Are the two bent "ramp" pieces a part made by ETI to try to alleviate the awning scraping the edge of the fiberglass at the roof line/recessed area and in providing this "ramp" part as it is currently made , perhaps resulting in this awning having this "hook" issue on retraction?

It seems on a vertical flat wall trailer these "ramps" would not be required and probably not have this "hook" issue, thus the design of the lower part of the Dometic awning enclosure and awning lip as it currently is.
Just guessing but it seems that if you wanted to recess this awing and nobody's saying you should, then it should be recessed less than the width of the lower cutaway part of the actual awing enclosure such that no part of the retractable awing itself is included in the recess depth. Perhaps a better recess dimension might allow the awning to droop on extension and retraction and not hit trailer side wall... all without requiring a "ramp" to guide it up and over the trailer's edge of the recess. Looking at Tom's posted pics of the end of the awing enclosure and roof edge, it seems that a fiberglass recess depth of perhaps a third to half of what it currently is, would eliminate the need for the "ramps" and the "hook" issue. Yes, if the awing was recessed less the awing enclosure would stick out a bit from the trailer , but perhaps function over looks is better.
Another fix possibly..if ETI makes the "ramps", then perhaps they can just make the angled extended part longer to accommodate the droop of the awing better and start "ramping" sooner when retracting.

A What If
IF its true this "ramp" is an ETI part
AND IF Dometic is not responsible for an integrator/trailer mfg application of the awning
THEN Dometic may not replace an awning if a specific trailer mfg's "hook" issue results in damage to the awing on retraction.

Very good thoughts on this issue . Probably have another issue installing the awning out farther is a lot space behind to collect water , dirt, leaves . Another issue I would think needs to solved . My first response was before the trailer leaves the factory , checking the operation and adjusting awning would be required . Pat

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Very good thoughts on this issue . Probably have another issue installing the awning out farther is a lot space behind to collect water , dirt, leaves . Another issue I would think needs to solved . My first response was before the trailer leaves the factory , checking the operation and adjusting awning would be required . Pat

Which I believe is already being performed, at least that was my observation as well as what others have reported.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Fred, excellent suggestion, how about emailing Escape with it and maybe we all can attend a 30 minute seminar.

Not really going to help those not attending rally . Pat

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Red Dog

I think we could use a short tutorial at the Osoyoos Rally to show those of us with the electric awning how to make these adjustments. Seeing someone demonstrate the procedure makes much more sense to me than "reading the manual"...


Fred M.

Video tape it.

[Kountrykamper]

Since 2 of us that have looked at the awning have found loose Collet Clamp Screws, others may want to spot check them. 140 in-lb of torque.

[cpaharley2008]

With all those adjusting screws on that piece of aluminum, what function do those 2 big hex bolts perform. If they are tight, how do the adjusting screws work?

[thoer]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If we did that, how would we speculate and predict doom and gloom?

I'm thinking those "two bent "ramp" pieces " were installed by aliens in UFOs as part of an upcoming invasion plot. Either that or they are antenna for NSA transmitters hidden inside the awing to report back every move your trailer makes...

On a slightly more serious note, Tom, thanks for the valid information!