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Old 10-10-2022, 12:20 PM   #1
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Best KISS portable solar charger & what ever I need to go with it..

I have problems with my ETI roof solar not working. Honestly don't feel like looking into it right now. I was planning on buying a portable solar set up anyways(trailer will be stored inside a shed). I mostly likely will not keep this trailer, 2013 Classic E19, because of the screen door set up & my high drive dogs(& guarding) at Dog Trials, with could be 100s of other high drive dogs(Nationals). But know it might be years to find another. I was told the easiest thing to do is a solar set up that connects direct to batteries. I'm not one for using a mirco(not built in, & don't want to haul one around, for limited plug in use) & don't like/use AC much(will be mostly traveling fall/winter/spring. I am mostly concerned about how big a system, controller, etc.? I'll need, after reading this posts lately(mostly about lithium?), my head is tied up in knots?? Mostly, I want to able to use my heater. How long can you run off batteries with the heater fan? Again I don't need 72. I dress, for say 55=60, have my down comforter, etc. & 3 dogs for night. HA
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Old 10-10-2022, 08:22 PM   #2
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If you have two 6-volt batteries, a capably sized portable panel and sunny skies during the day I believe you’d have enough stored energy to power your furnace fan for the night. Perhaps others on the forum more knowledgeable on the subject could chime in with definitive answers to your question.
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Old 10-10-2022, 09:21 PM   #3
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All of my Escapes have had the dual 6 volt option and I have never run out of juice before the next day's solar kicks in to recharge....
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Old 10-10-2022, 09:56 PM   #4
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Suggestions

Paul and I messed some with your rig at the Mississippi River rendezvous.

You've got solar panels already. We didn't have a ladder to get up on top to check things. I'd get your existing panels working first. Could be a bum or loose connection, an inoperable solar controller, but the panels themselves likely work fine. You're just not getting the juice to your batteries. Work the problem, and work from the panel wires outward towards the battery. Continuity testing or voltage measurements can be done with some moderate effort to find your demon. Double check everything.

2 nights in moderate cold (40F?) might be max usage to get out of your batteries, without any charging and careful pump and lights usage
.
A 20 watt remote panel with a charge controller, all connected to your batteries, would likely be adequate to keep your batteries topped off in storage. I happen to use a 27W panel that I had for my rig in storage. I'll remove the batteries and panel come the cold, long Wisconsin winter deep freeze and store them in the insulated, unheated garage and charge them up every couple of weeks.

Folks may chime in on direct experience of temps and battery run time with the heater . Your batteries were 100% charged when we checked them.

I use a 100W solar panel into a 15 or 20 amp rated (don't recall which) solar controller and haven't had a problem, if I have sun. Some portable panels come with attached solar controller, LENSUN is one brand of supplier. Just connect one of those to your batteries and you're in power.

Good luck.
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Old 10-11-2022, 12:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post
Paul and I messed some with your rig at the Mississippi River rendezvous.




Thanks, for doing that, but, I'm guessing somewhat burying my Father, & me starting on his executor work(huge mess with IRS), most of it went over my head.


"2 nights in moderate cold (40F?) might be max usage to get out of your batteries, without any charging and careful pump and lights usage. "



OK. Why I'm thinking the portable. I think you told me, driving the TV, doesn't charge very much.


"A 20 watt remote panel with a charge controller, all connected to your batteries, would likely be adequate to keep your batteries topped off in storage. I happen to use a 27W panel that I had for my rig in storage. I'll remove the batteries and panel come the cold, long Wisconsin winter deep freeze and store them in the insulated, unheated garage and charge them up every couple of weeks".


I'm hoping I don't need to do that, and will be traveling then. Too much landscape maintenance work in summer to leave.


"I use a 100W solar panel into a 15 or 20 amp rated (don't recall which) solar controller and haven't had a problem, if I have sun. Some portable panels come with attached solar controller, LENSUN is one brand of supplier. Just connect one of those to your batteries and you're in power".

Good luck.

Thanks on the clarifications on the "things"(controller, etc.) to look for, to set up a portable system up. Most of what you guys said went over my head. I am not sure I want to be one poking too deep into solar/Electrical myself. I know my Brother(a pretty good "older auto" mechanic), fried his wiring working on his boat. So I could get a portable system(say 100 watts, seems common) WITH a controller, to do what the roof is to be doing now. (I need to find a RV place I "trust", to look at the ETI roof set up). Would the controller work to not over charge while in Storage? Where I'm at, I should not have to bring in batteries(one, no way I want to be doing that at 65/70 # a piece). My tractor's battery has been fine, even at 9 years old. Barely gets down to teens(nights)the last 5 winters. Plus I maybe take off to the southwest come Jan. Why running a heater. I do know come getting the roof solar to work..... portable then changes, IF connected/ tied in the roof set up. But, can I keep it with the controller, if connected ONLY to the batteries(once I get ETI's roof working?), not tied in the Trailer's system? Or do I need a 2nd smaller system, like a trickle charger level?
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Old 10-11-2022, 08:20 PM   #6
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OK

So disconnect the RED positive wire coming out of your two 6V batteries. Your electrical system will be dead, if it is unplugged from shore power. Dead electrical system. And then get up on the roof of your rig to start to see if your issue is there. No brother electrical problems if there's no electricity. Even if your solar panels are producing MAX output, you'll likely not harm yourself at all. This part ain't rocket science. And look carefully, very carefully. If there are any interconnections, separate them, examine them, clean them with store bought electrical contact cleaner and reinsert them. Look for frayed wires. Take a photo to help us with this long distance assistance. Work the problem, and not the reasons to not do so.
I'm just trying to help, but it sounds as if you're ready to give up and sell your rig when you can, as you said.
Screen door and dog issues? There's a solution, but YOU have to find it. And you can.
Trailers are problem solving, crossword puzzle items, just like all of life. Work the problem. Do not despair or give up. It's just material, mechanical stuff, not nearly as complex as human relationships.

I didn't suggest you remove your batteries from your rig. I do. Different climate here in Wisconsin, and different storage situation.

There's tons of info on batteries, solar, guides to your needs, etc. It's your task to learn. This book can help.
https://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-Bible.../dp/0071392335

And good luck.
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