Electrical system troubleshooting

[ghosthunter]

40. Fuses

[ghosthunter]

Both fuses check ok with multimeter.

[Rossue]

People have had problems with the stock 12V cutoff switch from your generation of trailer. They finally went to a much better switch not too long ago.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Rossue

People have had problems with the stock 12V cutoff switch from your generation of trailer. They finally went to a much better switch not too long ago.

Any way to test.? Seems in good shape.

[ghosthunter]

Switch

[Rockhead]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Sounds like ghosthunter already did. Bottom of first post.

Ok then back to keepin quiet

[Rossue]

"Did you check the battery shut off switch? Mine failed but it was confounding because what failed was one of the little copper leads that the positive wire from the battery connects to was loose. So it would allow power to the system but jiggled in another position all the 12v systems shut off. Very similar symptoms to what you are describing. In effect, it was like the battery shut off switch was in the off position even when it wasn't.

The workaround until I could replace the switch was to just disconnect the two leads from the switch then connect them to each other directly. This is easy with a small nut and bolt connected through the two eyes on the end of the leads."

This from Post #77

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...v-18215-4.html

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Rossue

"Did you check the battery shut off switch? Mine failed but it was confounding because what failed was one of the little copper leads that the positive wire from the battery connects to was loose. So it would allow power to the system but jiggled in another position all the 12v systems shut off. Very similar symptoms to what you are describing. In effect, it was like the battery shut off switch was in the off position even when it wasn't.

The workaround until I could replace the switch was to just disconnect the two leads from the switch then connect them to each other directly. This is easy with a small nut and bolt connected through the two eyes on the end of the leads."

This from Post #77

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...v-18215-4.html

Ok

So how about I take a jumper wire by pass the switch, And if I get lights than I know the problem before I tear the switch out. .?

Will that work.

[Rossue]

I would think so. They other things I would check if that doesn't work is your ground to frame connection and the 30A fuse like this one:

https://www.autozone.com/starting-ch...hb-r/32372_0_0

Having heard of that fuse going bad on folks before it is in my spare parts bin.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Rossue

I would think so. They other things I would check if that doesn't work is your ground to frame connection and the 30A fuse like this one:

https://www.autozone.com/starting-ch...hb-r/32372_0_0

Having heard of that fuse going bad on folks before it is in my spare parts bin.

Could I jump across that 30 amp with a jump wire or is there a multimeter test I can do.?


Jumping across cut off switch did not work.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

Could I jump across that 30 amp with a jump wire or is there a multimeter test I can do?

You can jump across the auto reset fuse or just remove one wire and stack them both on the same terminal effectively bypassing it.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

You can jump across the auto reset fuse or just remove one wire and stack them both on the same terminal effectively bypassing it.

I did that with a jump wire. No change.

I checked the fuse with my multi tester set on ohms. Got no tone.
I checked the fuse with my multi tester set on volts, 0 reading.

Battery cut off was on
No shore power.

I have not been able to locate the ground to my frame. Have insulation all tanks and bottom.

At this point I am baffled. I am not convinced the fuse is ok. Thinking of getting a new one. I had 12 volt light on when I jumped across and got no flicker or anything.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

I did that with a jump wire. No change.

I checked the fuse with my multi tester set on ohms. Got no tone.
I checked the fuse with my multi tester set on volts, 0 reading.

Battery cut off was on
No shore power.

I have not been able to locate the ground to my frame. Have insulation all tanks and bottom.

At this point I am baffled. I am not convinced the fuse is ok. Thinking of getting a new one. I had 12 volt light on when I jumped across and got no flicker or anything.

Obviously you’ve tried both positions of the battery switch. On/off for a disconnect switch always confuses me for some reason. When you put the positive lead on the wire that lands on batt terminal of the auto reset circuit breaker and the negative lead on the WFCO ground stud do you have 0 volts?

[Rossue]

Cant hurt to just replace the fuse next as they're cheap; mine is actually a 50A version of the link to the Autozone 30A fuse. The link was from Rubicon327 he used in a reply to another thread.

Also, check the small gauge 12V grounds ganged together on a single stud on the back of the WFCO and tighten up anthing you can back there.

[Iowa Dave]

I’ve probably lost my place somehow but I read the battery switch was on. I don’t know if the power was checked in both sides of the switch. And if the wires were checked For a good tight contact? Our 19 switch was a replacement by the first owner and was very robust. The 21 switch is original and pretty lightweight and flips over easily. About three or four times a year it gets accidentally flipped to off and it’s pretty wimpy to turn back on. Has always worked but I’m not impressed. . When I see one I like I’ll probably buy it and install it. Also I always pull fuses and check for continuity, sometimes they look good when they are not. And finally in the words of my late brother in law, “Check them grounds real good, they can screw you up.” Oops typing at the same time as Ross, just slower. It’s cold here today.
That’s all I got.
Iowa Dave

[Rossue]

Hey Dave- am with you on the 12V cutoff switch upgrade. So far I like the one Rubicon327 bought from Powerwerx. Have used their products in the van build and they're great quality. Mounts up easy too with the threaded backing washer.

https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Hey Dave- am with you on the 12V cutoff switch upgrade. So far I like the one Rubicon327 bought from Powerwerx. Have used their products in the van build and they're great quality. Mounts up easy too with the threaded backing washer.

https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

That looks like a good one. Plenty heavy duty. The one that AZ Jack put on the 19 I think he said was an on/off switch from a sling shot dragster or a funny car. There was no mistaking when it thumped off or on. Thanks for the link
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

That looks like a good one. Plenty heavy duty. The one that AZ Jack put on the 19 I think he said was an on/off switch from a sling shot dragster or a funny car. There was no mistaking when it thumped off or on. Thanks for the link
Iowa Dave

They also make one with a removable knob if you want something with a lower profile. Just don’t lose the knob
https://powerwerx.com/panelhdswk-hea...removable-knob

[ghosthunter]

Update

I have confirmed both batteries are fully charged. With multi tester reading of 6.3 and 6.4
I also hooked a battery charger to them and got full readings.

I checked the Orange fuse 40 amp with multi tester and got a tone for both.

I toggled the battery cut off switch several times seem good.
I jumped it with alligator wire with 12 volt light on no joy.
I grounded to neg post on wafco with lighted test light to the switch terminals no light.
I would think there should be power here, but I sure cannot find it.

I inspected the negative ground on wafco all good.

The 30 amp cut off fuse gives me no readings. Either post with multi tester to neg. Post wafco 0. Jumping across it with alligator no joy.

I cannot find a source of 12 volt power any where in the trailer. Is the cut off switch before wafco or after?


At this point I am lost to cause.

Conclusions…

The Wafco kept my batteries charged since last September.
Something happen to prevent 12 power in trailer.

I keep it plugged into shore power on surge protector that shows faults and it reads good.

I am going away with it for the weekend so at this point, I will set this issue aside till I get back. Might make a tech appointment for it when I get back.

Anyone has any further ideas let me know.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

[Rossue]

I would go to the auto parts store for a new Bussman circuit breaker. If it works your trip will have no wondering about the unresolved issue.

If you have a mobile tech come and he installs it for the fix you'll go DOH!