How to Keep The Refer Cold While Driving Down The Highway

[Carmel Clown]

Sorry, I'm a little slow about all this "power" stuff. I am hoping the solar panels would keep the batteries on the trailer charged while traveling and prevent the truck and trailer batteries from depleting. Is this not the case?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Carmel Clown

Sorry, I'm a little slow about all this "power" stuff. I am hoping the solar panels would keep the batteries on the trailer charged while traveling and prevent the truck and trailer batteries from depleting. Is this not the case?

YES, That is the case as long as you keep the refrigerator operating on propane, if you try to operate the refer off 12v, then NO, your batteries will be depleted.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Carmel Clown

I am hoping the solar panels would keep the batteries on the trailer charged while traveling and prevent the truck and trailer batteries from depleting. Is this not the case?

That works as long as the panels produce more power than is being used. In many conditions the panels would not keep up with the refrigerator's consumption.

[Greg A]

I quit several years back responding one way or another on this topic. You’ll never convince those who don’t use gas to use it, and you’ll never convince those who use gas to not use gas. What’s important is to make work what is comfortable for you and just get the trailer on the road camping.
I’m actually spending my time on tightening and improving the electrical connections and systems in my trailer, and there is a lot of room for improvement as others on the forum have demonstrated over the years. Poor electrical connections/wiring have been much more responsible for issues and fires in houses, autos, RVs, etc. over the years than gas. Just opening the converter panel and making sure all the connections on the back are tight will go a long way to increasing safety. These things work loose over the years and can cause sparking, etc. not to mention ending a trip early cause stuff quits working.

[George Johnson]

Good morning, Greg A, sure glad you are responding to the topic you have quit responding to, 'cause we're learning a lot about things we didn't know before and some of us are even changing our ways, even if only temporarily, despite the fact we can never be convinced to change! It's no wonder my wife gets mad at me sometimes!

Lousy humor aside, I'm glad you commented on the possibility of loose connections creating more problems than many folks realize. I've now got another thing to pay attention to that I might have overlooked without your reminder. Thank you for that, and happy travels to you.

[Parker]

I guess I like to be different. With very inconsistent results when towing with the fridge on propane (hot windy days being the worst) I ran number 8 wires from the battery to the connector on the tow vehicle through a marine charging relay that isolates the trailer when the ignition is off. That's minimized the voltage drop, and we consistently do as well on 12V as with propane when it's a good propane day. I'm staying out of the safety discussions, which can tend to get a little emotional here, just saying that I like have a viable 12V option. It may not be worth the trouble and expense to others.

[fudge_brownie]

I have had endless problems with my refrigerator while towing. My experience mirrors what Parker has experienced. Of course hot, high temperatures and the inside temps of the refrigerator rise. But when driving, it would happen much sooner than when the trailer was parked. Winds that directly hit the trailer side with the refrigerator vent were the worst problem.

Thanks to elongest, a forum member, I fabricated a shield to place around the flame area. I did not fasten it permanently because I will remove it when parked in 90+ degrees F. It has greatly improved refrigerator temps when driving. I will not go into the myriad of other things I did, only to say this one did the most good.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

I have had endless problems with my refrigerator while towing. My experience mirrors what Parker has experienced. Of course hot, high temperatures and the inside temps of the refrigerator rise. But when driving, it would happen much sooner than when the trailer was parked. Winds that directly hit the trailer side with the refrigerator vent were the worst problem.

Thanks to elongest, a forum member, I fabricated a shield to place around the flame area. I did not fasten it permanently because I will remove it when parked in 90+ degrees F. It has greatly improved refrigerator temps when driving. I will not go into the myriad of other things I did, only to say this one did the most good.

I may give that a try. I've had some success with a mesh filter from Lowes designed to fit in a range hood that seems to help...but who knows? We try so many things getting these marginal fridges to work, confounded by constantly changing conditions.

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by Parker

With very inconsistent results when towing with the fridge on propane (hot windy days being the worst) I ran number 8 wires from the battery to the connector on the tow vehicle through a marine charging relay that isolates the trailer when the ignition is off.

Have you measured the current you are getting through your #8 wires while the fridge is on DC and while driving?

[fudge_brownie]

I tried the mesh filter to reduce refrigerator blow out, I did not have much success using it. I tried sealing the entire cavity with closed cell foam and tried my own baffle design. None worked. The “elongest baffle”, as photographed above, is very close to the flame area that seems to make the difference.

[Mswan]

We travel with propane on and it often blows out. But so what? As long as the fridge door isn't opened the food remains cool enough. In our tent camping years we used a cooler with a block of ice. Often when we opened the cooler the ice had melted but the food was still safe.

[Parker]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Have you measured the current you are getting through your #8 wires while the fridge is on DC and while driving?

Measuring the current requires breaking into the line for a series measurement, which I have not done. Much easier to measure voltage at the battery, which I found to be quite reasonable. Sorry I don't have the numbers available. If boondocking I'd still recommend switching over to propane for the last few miles to get the battery as topped off as possible before unhooking.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Parker

Measuring the current requires breaking into the line for a series measurement, which I have not done.

With a conventional ammeter, yes. Although relatively uncommon, clamp-on ammeters capable of measuring DC current (using a Hall effect sensor) are available. Here's a random one, available at Home Depot: Milwaukee Tool AC/DC Clamp Meter (Model # 2237-20). Given the price (this example is over US$200), this might be a good type of tool to borrow from a friend when needed.

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

With a conventional ammeter, yes. Although relatively uncommon, clamp-on ammeters capable of measuring DC current (using a Hall effect sensor) are available. Here's a random one, available at Home Depot: Milwaukee Tool AC/DC Clamp Meter (Model # 2237-20). Given the price (this example is over US$200), this might be a good type of tool to borrow from a friend when needed.

FYI, the above Milwaukee 2237-20 meter is available on Amazon for $120 USD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EL4LA8..._ME4pEbYHV9T67).

Can anyone give any first hand recommendations for these types of meters that are reasonably priced (say less than $150 USD)?

For those of you who are not familiar with DC clamp-on meters, be careful when buying one of these. Most clamp-on ammeters are for AC only. Look at the specifications regarding DC amps. I would recommend a minimum of 200 amps for RV work.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Have you measured the current you are getting through your #8 wires while the fridge is on DC and while driving?

Thomas,
I have not measured the amperage, but have measured the voltage. With the trailer battery and solar disconnected, the voltage drop between my truck alternator and 'fridge connection at the WFCO breaker-box was on the order of 1.5V. Or in other words, 13.8V at the alternator and 12.3V at the 'fridge. This is sub-optimal and would result in the trailer batteries being drained after a day's drive, and less cooling at the 'fridge.
--
Alan

[cpaharley2008]

On my 2014 E21 with the replacement refrigerator I installed furnace filter material on the outside refer vent hatch which helped with the blow out issue. I also purchased the plastic sheathing for the interior that kept the cold in when opening the door and retrieving items.Both of these "fixes" helped the operation on propane work.

[Parker]

I remember your furnace filter, which helped me decide to try the mesh screen. I haven't tried the plastic sheathing yet. I certainly see the advantage, but it might be a tough sell to the other person accessing the fridge on a regular basis.

[steve dunham]

Travel when it cold outside . It’s remarkable how cold the refrigerator stays when it’s 20 below outside .

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Travel when it cold outside . It’s remarkable how cold the refrigerator stays when it’s 20 below outside .

Actually it does not work well in below freezing weather. In fact they have winter covers that close off the exterior to help the unit.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Actually it does not work well in below freezing weather. In fact they have winter covers that close off the exterior to help the unit.

No need to run the refrigerator when it’s below zero , nature takes care of the problem