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Old 01-23-2020, 03:23 PM   #1
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New Wheels, Odd Tire Wear

Was just looking at the wheels on my 2010 17B and noticed something strange. On the right side the tire is nearly worn bald on the outside 1/4 of the tread. Why would this happen? If it was inflation it should appear on both edges. There is no caster/camber on the wheels is there? The wheel appears to be original and is showing some rust, so I am planning to replace both the running wheels. The left wheel shows only normal pattern of wear.


My trailer has the factory lift on it, and the wheels (15") do not come close to filling the wheelwell. Would going to 16 or 17 inch wheels cause any problems? Would give a little more clearance and fill the wheelwells better.

Suggestions on replacement wheels and sources?
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Old 01-23-2020, 03:31 PM   #2
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I assume you purchased used? You may want to replace all tires with new as you have no idea of the age of the tire on the unit?
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Old 01-23-2020, 03:41 PM   #3
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I have not checked the tire codes, but will do so before I decide what to do. Do not want to make a decision until I figure out the tire wear issue. I suppose it could be due to a problem with that wheel. Will confirm all lug nuts tight and on square.
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Old 01-23-2020, 03:53 PM   #4
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Were the wheels balanced?
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:28 PM   #5
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Here’s a few things to check, wheel bearings seated with adequate nut pressure on the thrust washer. Bearings not worn to the point of being loose in the races, wheel nut adequately tight and secured. Wheel rim not bent. Wheel true top to bottom (measure across from other side top and bottom. Tire inflation proper and tire and wheel balanced. Lug nuts torqued at 95 ft lbs or so. Even loading in the trailer side to side. Axle not bent.
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:55 PM   #6
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Using the suggestions I find the following:
1 The subject tire (wheel) was probably balanced, it does have a weight. Interesting that the left, ok, tire has no balance weights.

2. Further inspection shows that the wear pattern is not evenly bald on the right edge. Instead it is bald for 5-6 inches, then a lesser worn area. Pattern may extend all the way around the tire, cannot tell yet. Still suspicious it is a balancing problem.

3. Pulled the cap. Looks like the bearing was recently greased (as told by seller), appears washer is tight. Wheel has no play in/out when tug on top of tire.

4. All three tires are of different brands. Looks like left tire was the spare.

5. Do not know how to check for a bent axle.

In any event, now plan on replacing two tires. Just need to decide on size of replacement wheels.
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Old 01-23-2020, 04:55 PM   #7
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Easiest thing to check first is whether the outer bearing is seated and the castle nut is torqued properly. If loose it well affect the camber outwards and could result in the kind of wear you have. Had that issue once when a shop was in a hurry and they did not seat the cup(race) for a new outer bearing they put in. Also did not properly tighten the castle nut and that wheel was about to come off. They bought me a new tire and I won't go back. Tried delegating; had always done it myself and now will again; it's not that bad.

If you do them every year the inner seal will pry off easily with the hook tool, vs. banging it out from inside the hub, which can be a PITA.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:28 PM   #8
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Cupping

Quote:
Originally Posted by marant View Post
Using the suggestions I find the following:
1 The subject tire (wheel) was probably balanced, it does have a weight. Interesting that the left, ok, tire has no balance weights.

2. Further inspection shows that the wear pattern is not evenly bald on the right edge. Instead it is bald for 5-6 inches, then a lesser worn area. Pattern may extend all the way around the tire, cannot tell yet. Still suspicious it is a balancing problem.

3. Pulled the cap. Looks like the bearing was recently greased (as told by seller), appears washer is tight. Wheel has no play in/out when tug on top of tire.

4. All three tires are of different brands. Looks like left tire was the spare.

5. Do not know how to check for a bent axle.

In any event, now plan on replacing two tires. Just need to decide on size of replacement wheels.
Your description of tire wear is what we always called cupping. Regardless of the fact that there is weight on the tire it might still be out of balance. When you buy tires and get them balanced and pay for lifetime rotation and balance, very few people return for rebalancing. Id have that checked but its best to match the tires for brand, inflation etc.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:46 PM   #9
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I suggest you buy 2 new wheels and tires, have them balanced and keep the old ones for spares. It seems some tires were put on wheels without rebalancing would cause cupping.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:51 PM   #10
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I agree, now just to decide if larger wheels will work.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
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CPAHarley
I agree, now just to decide if larger wheels will work.

For what purpose?
Standard on my 17B was 14" and option 15". I went with 15", but I'm not sure why.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:04 PM   #12
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For what purpose?
Standard on my 17B was 14" and option 15". I went with 15", but I'm not sure why.

Just curious. More clearance, better look in the wheelwells.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:24 PM   #13
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I don't think you'll gain much clearance and I think your tires will cost you more.
Another thought; you want space around the tire so you can get your arm or a tool in there to wash cattle splat off the inside of the wheel well.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:37 PM   #14
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"wash cattle splat off the inside of the wheel well".



I love it. Recently we had a chance to go to New Zealand. The ratio of sheep to people is 100:1. They have to get them to market. All livestock trucks are required to have black tanks built in, and there are special dump stations along the highways. We never had * * on the windshield.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:43 PM   #15
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Made the mistake of getting behind a manure spreader, had to wash both the truck and trailer that night in the cg, even though washing was prohibited. Had to get the flies off.....
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:45 PM   #16
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Head to head near Merritt.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:17 PM   #17
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My trailer has the factory lift on it, and the wheels (15") do not come close to filling the wheelwell. Would going to 16 or 17 inch wheels cause any problems? Would give a little more clearance and fill the wheelwells better.
It is difficult to find 16" or 17" wheels with the bolt pattern (5-on-4.5") to fit the trailer's hubs, and in the zero (or nearly zero) offset required. The hub/drums can be changed to get a 6-on-5.5" pattern, making wheels available, but that means expense and effort; I wouldn't do that for appearance, but it's your trailer.

It looks like you would want a larger overall diameter. While you can go somewhat larger, I don't think there's as much room as you might think, especially between the two tires on the same side. The brakes would also become somewhat less effective, because the tire rolling radius increases without a proportional increase in brake drum radius; that's not likely a problem, assuming that you currently don't use the full brake system capability (i.e. the current brake controller setting is much less than 12).
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:32 PM   #18
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I agree with Iowa Dave, it likely is a balance problem or could be a belt separation problem but more than likely balance. You could check the camber by putting your trailer on flat concrete and taking a framing square and putting the short leg on the concrete and the long leg next to the tire. With the short leg pointing straight away from the tire. The long leg should have the same respected distance from the tire on both sides. Not rocket science. It whoa even to be noticeable to be a problem. Make sure wheel bearings are adjusted correctly first.
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:00 PM   #19
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7 years ago discovered severe cupping both tires my previous trailer after our trip west with it. It was an '86 with torsion bar suspension and them rubber bars inside the axle were totally shot. No choice but replace everything.
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:08 PM   #20
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Hi Myron
I had not considered this possibility since the trailer was only 10 years old. Maybe it’s a possibility though. Perhaps the difference between an original axle suspension height and the current height of the axle could be determined and could be used to determine “wear” or “sag”.
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