Punctured water tank?

[Thane]

The sealant doesn’t have to stick to be effective, it acts like a gasket. The sealant will ooze out as the fitting or patch is installed and excess can removed with a wet finger or glove. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry.

Lightly dip the screws in sealant when you install them, in a tight hole they will not leak.

A cap with pipe thread tape will seal a bulkhead fitting.

I’d try the bulkhead fitting first as it is the least invasive, if it is too hard or doesn’t work, then try a patch. If that doesn’t work have a beer and go camping anyway.

We find the two gallon water jugs with a spigot from the grocery store are pretty handy and 1 gallon jugs are convenient inside the trailer as well, you can refill them easily.

[Ron in BC]

I'm having trouble following this thread.

It started out seeming to show water leaking out directly below the hot water tank.

Then there were references to a center structure that tied the top and bottom of the fresh water tank together.

My fresh water tank doesn't have any sign of a central vertical structure tying the top and bottom together.

So, to clarify, are we talking about the fresh water tank and a central structure that links the bottom to the top?

Ron

[Tin]

This might work.
https://www.envirodesignproducts.com...12330564518006

If you are set on a bulkhead fitting. Try a blind bulkhead fitting $$$.
or even a mechanical pipe plug ?

[Thane]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I'm having trouble following this thread.

It started out seeming to show water leaking out directly below the hot water tank.

Then there were references to a center structure that tied the top and bottom of the fresh water tank together.

My fresh water tank doesn't have any sign of a central vertical structure tying the top and bottom together.

So, to clarify, are we talking about the fresh water tank and a central structure that links the bottom to the top?

Ron

Howdy,

It is a bit confusing...

A heater blanket on his fresh water tank went rogue and burned a 2 inch diameter hole in the fresh water tank.

We’re trying to figure out a temporary or permanent fix that does not require removal of the tank. The intent is something quick and easy and that doesn’t require unusual tools or plastic welding so he can get on the road.

The two best options so far are an off-the-shelf bulkhead fitting installed in the hole and then capped off, or a patch with an inner patch, and outer patch and a sealant to fill the void where the tank material was burned through.

[Ron in BC]

OK, thanks for clarifying. So the link to the repair of a tank with a central vertical structure doesn't apply in this case.

I agree with the comments about plastic welding. It's not something that a person without practice could achieve good results. I've a friend who is an expert professional welder and he bought one of those hot air plastic welders and he didn't get good results without quite a bit of practice and there different types of plastic rods that add to the mix.

I guess if this was my tank I'd cut a piece of 1/16" or slightly thicker aluminum large enough to leave at least a 1" margin around the hole and use sealant and about 8 sheet metal screws to patch it. That allows it to be used without a big holdup. Worst case, the patch has a drip. But a simple patch doesn't burn any bridges, maybe it'd do the trick, if not a higher level repair could be done later.

Ron

[medora]

Hey all - progress here this morning but first I want to share these photos of some of the burned bits ostensibly caused by a fault in the heating element. I wish we could trace this back to the heating pad manufacturer and ask for some sort of goodwill compensation, because not only has this been a complete pain in the tush, it’s dangerous - and it’s going to cost a lot of money to fix long term. The last photo shows me pointing to the singed and melted PE piece from the freshwater tank, with singed insulation next to it.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by medora

Hey all - progress here this morning but first I want to share these photos of some of the burned bits ostensibly caused by a fault in the heating element. I wish we could trace this back to the heating pad manufacturer and ask for some sort of goodwill compensation, because not only has this been a complete pain in the tush, it’s dangerous - and it’s going to cost a lot of money to fix long term. The last photo shows me pointing to the singed and melted PE piece from the freshwater tank, with singed insulation next to it.

Thank you for posting the photos . This is a good reminder for those of us who have the heat pads on our trailer . Hopefully you can get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time and expense .

**For now I plan on pulling the fuses feeding the heat pads on our trailer — from what I read on the internet yours is not an isolated occurrence
Reading the instruction manuals for several different types of RV tank heating mats — There must be water in the tanks when the heat mats are energized **

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by medora

Hey all - progress here this morning but first I want to share these photos of some of the burned bits ostensibly caused by a fault in the heating element. I wish we could trace this back to the heating pad manufacturer and ask for some sort of goodwill compensation, because not only has this been a complete pain in the tush, it’s dangerous - and it’s going to cost a lot of money to fix long term. The last photo shows me pointing to the singed and melted PE piece from the freshwater tank, with singed insulation next to it.

Where was that mounted on the tank? On the bottom of the tank, I assume?

[medora]

Yes. Under the tank.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by medora

Yes. Under the tank.

Was the tank drained and the pads left on?

Or did that happen with water in the tank?

[medora]

So - I went for it and patched the hole. So far it’s holding. Here’s what I did:

-> attempted a very ugly but hopefully mostly functional plastic weld, with advice from a local kayak shop owner who has patched kayaks using 5 gallon HDPE bucket scraps.
-> overlaid this weld with two layers of Gorilla’s waterproofing tape (spoke to a Gorilla rep yesterday who said their duct tape and this tape DO work with PE surfaces - this tape was also recommended by the kayak guy)
-> used Water Weld around all the tape seams
-> overlaid that with a Lexan sheet. That sheet is not flush to the tank because of the water weld, but I screwed it in using Thane’s tip (dab of sealant).
-> waited overnight, then taped the whole thing down again using the Gorilla tape.

Whew.

I then laid a cookie sheet under the area and filled the tank 1/3 full. That was two hours ago. And so far, so good. We will empty the tank before we leave and travel empty so that we don’t stress this. Who knows, it could fail, but I literally threw everything I could at it.

Next job - packing the beer.

I’m attaching two photos, one of the finished patch (I have all the steps photographed too, just not on this phone, so if anyone wants me to post those photos I can once we are on the road). The other photo is of me under the trailer attempting the pseudo weld. I’m including this because someone suggested the OP was a male

Thanks for all your amazing help and support, friends! We will keep you posted on how this holds up.

[medora]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Was the tank drained and the pads left on?

Or did that happen with water in the tank?

There was water in the tank. Not a lot, but enough that this should not have happened.

[Ron in BC]

Wow, never even thought that could happen. Always wondered about electric blankets on beds breaking a wire and going rouge but not in a static situation like that.

I gotta say I'd also be surprised if those multiple layers of patching leak.

So you used a propane torch. Did it have a soldering tip on it or was it just the bare flame?

Have a great camping trip you've earned it.

Ron.

[stephen99]

A compelling tale of trailer life and well told. I think your repair will outlast the tank.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by medora

There was water in the tank. Not a lot, but enough that this should not have happened.

Thanks, sorry it happened to you.

Do you know the brand of heating pads Escape uses?

I got my trailer prewired for heat pads, and certainly want to avoid them burning a hole in my tank!

[Thane]

Well done, nice to be able to quickly get on the road.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Wow, never even thought that could happen. ...

I had a heating pad go into meltdown under my waterbed - back in the 60's. Pad was designed for a waterbed and of course the bed was full. Yes, it can happen.
--
Alan

[medora]

Originally Posted by stephen99

A compelling tale of trailer life and well told. I think your repair will outlast the tank.

I sure hope so! We are debating whether to order a new tank just in case ...

[Tam2004]

Medora and all of you are indeed impressive --- I read this whole thread in fascination. Escape owners are hot!! (no pun intended).

[Toddybegood]

I had a leak in my fresh tank INSIDE my 2006 17b. It was where the inlet hose met the tank. I had to excavate the spray foam around where the inlet hose attaches to tank on the inside. I found out why upon excavating. Escape misjudged where they drilled the hole in the bottom of the trailer where it would accept the tank and when they shoved the tank underneath it gouged the inlet. I replaced part of the inlet and now it only leaks outside the trailer when filled to the top. I would have to drop the tank to fix the test because the other part is glued to the tank. I'll try to post pics.